Hi, Ewan before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. battery wont stay charged KawiForums Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR... Kawasaki ZX6 ZZR600 90 97 pdf OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 89 zx600 no spark issue KawiForums Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums No spark Kawasaki Forums Kawasaki ZX6 ZZR600 90 97 pdf OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals
Check the seal behind your water impeller there are o rings back there if one of them goes bad you will leak antifreeze into oil, your impeller is run by the oil pump i believe, you should not see oil in the water also your bike will run fine but when hot will foul the plug with water look for white smoke sometimes and the smell of anti freeze on start up
i have a 400 4x4 doing the same thing new piston rings and top end now lossing water but runs great oil looks real thin
took to the dealer to fix this week will let you know how i make out.
it could be your starter relay itself.they fault every now and then.make sure its not the starter solenoid.if your battery power is down a little the starter will not engage.your battery should read about 12.8 volts or morewhen well charged.check it with a multimeter with engine off.then with engine running it should read 13.5 to 14.5 volts or thereabouts.if the battery is low to begin with, charge it first then try again after battery has rested for an hour or two.if the battery is not charging that may be the problem.if the battery is 12.8 or more it is ok.if you are not getting 13.5-14.5 volts at the battery terminals with the engine running then you may have a problem with the charge wire coming from the regulator,or the regulator itself or the ground/earth wire at regulator or even back at the the stator in the engine case.there should be 2 or maybe 3 wires going into casing depending on your system.
try the battery test first and then see if its charging from regulator.if both of these pass then it is very likely the relay.although do not rule out the possibility that the solenoid on the starter could be sticking a bit.hope i have been of some help.
Sounds to me that the float may be stuck in the raised position for that carb. This will keep the needle vavle closed preventing fuel entering the float chamber. has the bike been left in the garage for a while on its side stand if so that might also indicate that the float pivot pin is worn and as the fuel evaporates the float has jammed against the side of the float chamber. Carb cleaner slight tapping of the side of the carb float chamber and possible a squirt of compressed air. All worth a try before a massive strip down. Jim ex heli-mech.
It can be anythone of a number of things, stripped cog, worn shaft, worn selector drum. Unfortunately all of them inside the casing. To get at it entails removal of the engine and a complete disassembly. DIY is not recommended if you're not knowledgeable on the inner workings of a bike engine or at least have a good repair manual, since you'll be diassembling that motor in totality.
It sounds like your bike has been sitting in storage for an extended period of time (a year or more) - and the carburetors are plugged up. If this is the case, they will need to be completely disassembled and cleaned out.
If it hasn't been sitting (and the carbs aren't plugged up) then check that all of the normal tune-up items have been performed, especially valve adjustment, oil and filters, spark plugs, etc. If this fails to produce positive results, perform a compression check on the engine. Each cylinder must be able to produce at least 140 psi of compression in order to run and idle properly.