20 Most Recent 2005 Honda CBR 125 R Questions & Answers


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Aug 18, 2018


Hi, Neil for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on May 16, 2018


Hi, Lelane for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Nov 19, 2017


Hi, Gary the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Aug 14, 2017


Hi, Cif for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 19, 2017


Hi, Steven before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that may or may not be sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ". The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 19, 2017


Hi, Arab69 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 19, 2017


Hi, Kim_andre96 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 19, 2017


Hi, David for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 19, 2017


Hi, Insanebiker89 for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 19, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 19, 2017


Hi, Daniel and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables improperly adjusted, pinched or need lubrication.
2. Idle adjusting screw needs to be backed off.
4. Air fuel mixture adjusted too lean start with 2 full turns.
5. Intake system air leak.
6. Fast idle choke ramp is not releasing.
7. Broken throttle return spring.
8. Damaged diaphragm or slide.
9. Faulty MAP, TPS, ATS, O2, sensors or wiring/connector.
10. Multiple carburetors not in sync.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 19, 2017


Hi, Daniel and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Fuel tank empty
11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Faulty fuel pump.
15. Faulty pressure regulator.
16. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
17. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 19, 2017


Hi, Sam and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Fuel tank empty
11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Faulty fuel pump.
15. Faulty pressure regulator.
16. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
17. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 18, 2017


Hi, Anonymous you may need to replace brake pads for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 18, 2017


Hi, Markhull it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
7. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
8. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 18, 2017


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 18, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 18, 2017


Hi, Signmanandrew for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 17, 2017


Hi, Tony if your headlight is not working, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your head light bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chaffed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/lo beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil.
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Honda CBR... | Answered on Jun 17, 2017

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