20 Most Recent 2004 Honda VTX 1800 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Says on the sidewall of the tire ...

Remove the seat for access to the battery compartment. For more information look here: http://hrca.honda.com/

Should be a bolt at the rear of the seat ...

Remove the passenger seat, find the two bolts n the right and left side of the rifer seat - remove them.

I had the same problem with my Honda, although it is a smaller bike than yours. Take the air cleaner off and with the engine running cover the now open end of each carb one at a time with your hand to the point where it is running really badly - efectively you are over choking it- and give it a rev. It will pull through most of the dirt that might be trapped in the jets. Check that the mixture is richer rather than leaner. Check that the plugs are at the right setting, especially if they are quite old, the gap may be too wide. Try and set the idling a little higher, 100 - 150rpm. The last one was what sorted mine out.

yep, look at twin brake callipers on front wheel.they are not on the same line.

buddy is it carbed or injection as i know what the answer is

The caliper is pushing more pressure to one piston. Try tearing the caliper apart and replacing the seals and cleaning it out. Changing the brake fluid while your at it wouldn't hurt.

the only thing that will cause this whine is worn/defective bearings in the transmission, this allows the gears to mesh slightly out of line and this results in the noise and clunk

Check the battery terminals and the main earth connection. Also symptomatic of a dying battery. The voltage seems to be dropping right off as soon as you put a significant load on.

AGREED, had the same problem; hesitation, skipping, popping at low speeds. Ran good w/ new plugs for short time. tried injector cleaner. No FI codes. Dealer couldn't figure it out after $200! I replaced the $26 fuel pressure regulator and she runs Great!!

you need to readjust the valves I would have to say you have them to tight

Is it when you put it in gear or when you relase the clutch?
If it is the clutch then you problem is in the kickstand switch, it is either malfunctioning, or out of adjustment.

Hope this is of some help.
ed

most likely there is a small crack in one of the heads that gets larger when engine gets hot. usually between the valves -they will have to be magnafluxed to be sure

Setting the idle speed faster does not help?

• Check to see that the choke is not partially on.
• Inspect the ignition wires at the switch and through the wiring harness all the way to the battery and the alternator. Look for loose connections and abraded wires.
• Drain the carbs and clean them with B12 chemtool or any other good carb cleaner. The idle circuit in the carbs is probably gummed up. To clean the carbs properly they will need to be removed from the bike. Be sure to synchronize and balance the carbs when reinstalling.
• Remove and clean the petcock water trap and clean the trap of water and rust etc. If a filter screen is present clean it as well.
• Set idle speed to factory specs. Do not use gas with Ethanol.
• Check battery condition and alternator output.

it could been dirt in caburettor so it owerflow and the engine get full of fuel and the fuel coming out of the exos.
The are the float spindle som not close , it can happening when dirt are coming in the carburettor float chamber. This are under the caburettor.
You must clean they so the float spindle can close. If the engine get full of fuel , it could bee fire in the engine.

Your carb idle pins/needle valves are either fouled or worn/damaged. Or floats that control your equilibrium for gas distribution throughout the carb array are not working together with valves/pins. Has this bike set a spell, at least once for too long of an interval? I'd pull the whole darn carb setup and inspect/clean, then reinstall exactly to specs. Ask for the very best teardown/rebuild cleaner for carbs at the parts store! Betcha a little elbow grease and a perfect dismantle and clean, then rebuild is all you need! Been there----Did dat!

go ahead and run a full tank of 93 octain gas through it and when you get a chance open it up in each gear, it will clean what ever is in it out.

Freakville03

Hi there! Mine does the same! Initially I thought it to be the clutch but when I replaced it, the old clutch looked good (almost like the new kit) I installed the new kit anyway! Went for a spin and all good(two mile spin) put my gear on and 5mins later, down it goes! Shifts in and out of neutral but won't move! I mean, you can put it in first gear and release the clutch and won't move! Motor oil is good, clutch fluid good, no leaks anywhere on the bike so what could it be? Anyone knows?

check your batteries https://testmyspeed.onl/