2004 Honda VTX 1300 Retro - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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GN4 honda oil

fuel tank vent hose. its supposed to be there and it isnt supposed to connect to anything.

3 measurments here*static height-*dynamic height-*suspention height(extended fork length)static height is measured with a plumb line to the ground at the center of the fork tube top with the motorcycle standing upright and no rider on on it*dynamic height is the same except your sitting on the motorcycle.*suspention height /extended fork length is with the front wheel off the ground and measured from the center of the front axle to the top of the fork tube.if tube cap/valve is recessed you still use the top of tube measurement but if it has a cap that screws in on top of the tube then imagine the fork cap removed (measurement stops at the top of tube itself.(most always)

Check regulator...this powers all running light tail lights etc.

The green light is either a burned out bulb, disconnected wire or faulty neutral switch. Both the kickstand and the clutch lever act as a safety. The kickstand> to make sure you don't forget to put it up when starting down the street, > the clutch to make sure to make sure the bike doesn't get away from you if the shift lever is accidentally put in gear while starting. PLEASE rate my answer. Thanks!

When draining the oil, when it looks like it's done, carefully stand bike up right & a bit more will drain out as well, it's safe to put 4 qts in & not be over or under.

Asuming you have checked that the battery itself is holding its charge, neither the starter and or solenoide will have any affect on the charging of the battery, run a drop test on the Battery, even a new one could be faulty, Next i would locate the regulator rectifier, this converts Ac from the alternator, into DC to charge the battery, here i would pay particular attention to the wire connector block, open the block and check inside for corrosion, also the wires on the outer of the block should be inspeted for corrosion which when oxidised turns green, check each connector and in turn pull on the wire to check for its condition,Next i would visualy inspect the alternator for condition, you will find 3 yellow wires ie 3faze

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The brakes must be trimmed to set closer as possible without the pads rubbing the caliper so that there is least movement of the piston when the hydraulics works.
So even if the system is bled and there is no air lock on the system , it is important to set the levers closer to the pads. So use the adjustment of the assembly so as to keep it closer to the pad.
Hence when the brakes are applied there will be immediate tightness to the lever as the pads close contact with the pads and hold on.
So I suggest that since you have overhauled the brakes and changed the pads this must be reset.

With a problem such as this, someone once taught me that the first thing you have to do is absolutely clean the entire suspect area. Use soap and water or engine cleaner or whatever you have. Then you HAVE TO locate where the leak is originating. Don't assume it is a head leak, it probably is not. You have to be able to determine the location of the source or you (or a mechanic) can't repair it.
Good luck,
Gary

This may seem silly but ;how is the throttle cable adjustment .Had a 2003 come in and the complaint was the same.Adjusted the handlebar cable adjustment and what a difference.Also check the vaccum line onthe right side under the edge of the tank,near the rear.This can cause stumble. NNo you do not have to remove tank to do this..Good Luck

votre probleme provient d'une mauvaise connection de l'alimentation electrique 1;batterie bien charger......2;connecteur bien viser.........3;suivre le fillage vers le cluster peut etre fil denuer ou briserr

Check connections in the cables that are in the front up against the steering head.
Their are two green connectors that are inside a vinyl boot.

check start switch, these fail over time.
Check the side stand switch also

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They are supposed to tick a littlle.
It's when they get tight that you can have problems

How is your current oil level?
Do you have to keep topping your oil up to the correct level every 2-4 weeks because the level keep on driopping?
If yes there is few possibilities, one of thenm is your combustion chamber oil rings are not tightly sealing the chamber so some oil are drawn to be burn at the same time it burns your fuel.
Another possibilitiy is your valves seals are not sealing your top side properly drawing oil during intake stroke.
A quick check is by looking at your spark plug, see if they are fouled or covered with oil or thicks suds. Yhe other indicator you may notice is that the power band on your bike had decreased considerably.
If you find this helpful please indicate it or for more help please reply and detail what you notice or how the bike act since black smoke issue prevail and shall try to guide you to pin-point to the right direction whether an egine overhaul required or some other less drmatic relief can be had. Good enough?

Change it every 2,000km (or every 6 months) to be on the safe side.