20 Most Recent 2002 Honda CBR 600 F(4)i - Page 2 Questions & Answers

The first thing I would check is the battery. Do a check with a volt meeter and make sure you have 12.5 volts. Then do a load test to see what the CCA's are. If you have a dead cell you can have full volts but not enough CCA's to start the bike. Also check all ground cables and for corrosion. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

for the rich problem, is it standard with genuine exhaust and new air filter?
The random stopping is probably a loose wire(clock reset), check the plug behind the ignition switch, and make sure the kill button is good

try a half can of see foam to a full tank of gas then ride it for at least 30 miles to work it through the system getting on it real hard once in awhile so it can clean out the system.

THE STOCK PLUG IS BELOW:

SKU: 31912-MBW-E11
SPARK PLUG (IMR9C-9H) (NGK) (Honda Code 6846034)

it depends on the diameter of the carb inlet,the space between the carb and frame ,will the new filter fitting match up to the carb dia,

I am having the same problem, the electric gas gauge turns on while pressing the ignition switch. once the bike is idling the screen is blank where the fuel level should be displayed.

u can us a ngk Iridium IX #IMR9A9H or ngk 6999 just ask for this at a local motorbike shop or on ebay

Check all fuses, and wire connections at fuel tank.if still not working check other wire connections befor going to instrument cluster gauge

Fuse blown.

Even though the bike spins over well the battery's on CBR's have to be in tip top condition because the capacitor in the CDI will not release the pulse to fire the coils even though it seems well charged, does this only happen from cold and have you run your jump cables from the battery first as feeding power through the fuel pump will also back feed the battery.

Hope this helps

dont buy honda

Sounds like you have a loose wire in there someplace. It might be a connection that is just finger tight, and needs torquing up. I had my starter relay finger tight and couldn't figure out what was going on till I traced everything down. I hope this helps.

is the battery leads on tight?

i know this might sound a bit daft...but the kill switch on the handlebars is not off?
& has it got petrol in it?
does it try to start?..does it cough & slputer?if it does it may want new sparkplugs..as these seem to go off with repaet running while laid up for winter...if this is not the case...check the plugs for spark & make sure petrol is getting to the plugs!!...hopes this helps....Howard

you have a fi fault revmove the seat cowl on the left hand sise you will see the cdi unit (black box with wires going to it) you should see a black conector with two wires going to it bridge the wires with a pice of wire or split pin turn the igntion switch on and count the blinks one long one means ten recored the the blinks and phone a dealer and ask them for the fault code.to reset the the light pull out the bridge and the light should stay on or blink repeted turn off the switch make sure the kill switch is set to run hope this helps

More times than not it is the ignition control device. It used to be called a CDI box. Try checking your wiring plugs by tracing the system from the coils. It can be the coils but normally the CDI goes first. If that is the case try ebaymotors for a new one or powersportseast.com. You can look up parts for your bike on the dealers parts fische. Also for a better discount bikebandit.com. You should buy a manual if it is in your budget. This would help you narrow it down on your own and you would have the many other topics it covers at your finger tips

yes.

anytime i get clunking on my old cbr i know its time to adjust the chain...too much slack will cause this usually. if you ride your bike real hard like i do mine all the time, the chain stretches but not all together evenly... only in small sections..so when you adjust a worn out chain your suppose to adjust it for the tightest section...but then when you check the rest of the chain its a lot looser and makes for noisy shifts... so i just buy another chain when it gets that bad. you'll know it time to change a chain when you can lift it off the sprocket and see daylight between them. also this clunking could be a loose axle or worn bearing?

clogged jets, try 1/3 can of "Sea Foam" for local Autozone first. on my old hurricane it wouldnt red line past 8000rpm before bogging out..i took my carb out and did an inspection and found something rattling around in the number one bowl...it was the main jet. go figure. once i got that fixed it was as fast as the 750s and some liter bikes off the line.

it will probally cost yoou less if you bring it to a shop and let them hook it up to the computer and tell you the code for the fi light then you will know what to replace