20 Most Recent 1997 Honda F6 C Valkyrie Questions & Answers

No need to bleed the Master, but if you removed the pistons in the calliper, first why unless changing the dust and pressure seals, you might have damaged one or put back twisted, what bike, and do you have pics of what you did, should film work with camara for referance. did you clean all the oxidised build of from the seal grooves??

Your carburetors have varnished fuel in them and need cleaning. You most likely have clogged slow and fast jets. The fouled plugs pretty much say it all with this regard.

float in carb jammed meaning valve jammed open

how about air filter , could be a bad wire , gas , vacuum leak , make sure you close the choke after it starts if it does not have auto choke

I just did this as well on my '97 Tourer. It's not as bad as it first looks. After removing the seat, you will need to remove the actual latch assembly at the very top. When you do this the cable to the latch assembly will also come out. It is similar to bicycle cables and just has a cylindrical end on it that must be removed from the latch. After doing this, you should be able to reach down to where the key lock is (the one that releases the latch, not the ignition key). If you shine a flashlight down you will see that the key latch is held into place with a "tinnerman" clip. You remove this by pulling it away from the key lock. I had to use a fairly long pair of needle nose pliers for this but it wasn't difficult. Once you have the key latch disconnected, you can pull the cable out the front of the cover. It may be helpful to remove the cover as well (2 screws). Hope this helps.

I've experienced this issue on several Valkyries. The leak is most likely coming from the main hose connector just behind the radiator. I've never had it be any more complicated than just having to tighten the hose clamp. You may be able to get to it from the left side by looking between the front two carb intakes.. If you still have all the smog equipment it may be difficult to impossible to see. At most, you may need to remove the tank and air box to see it.

Are you getting 12volts to the starter when you press the starter button? If so,then its probably time for a new starter.

Replace the rear brake switch.

well first thing is to check for water leaking into the bulb holder

Put more gas in the tank before you run out.

Is the clutch handle pulling in and just not engaging? Can you feel resistance in the clutch handle? Please give me more information. Thanks!

Take your clutch master cylinder apart . There is a large feeder hole on the reservoir that allows brake fluid to flow to the piston. Next to the large hole is a tiny pin hole that the fluid returns to the reservoir through. The pin hole is plugged with dirt or rust and is causing the pressure build up. A single wire cut from a wire brush works good for unblocking the hole.

Something is the charge circuit must be blowing the fuse. The charging circuit is about the only circuit that is only hot when the engine is running. Everything else will work with just the key on.

its going to be some thing like EP80, gear oil not engen oil!!!
thats far to thin and wont take the presher of a gear box,,go for EP80 ,

Hi ,

1. Turn off the fuel and then disconnect the fuel hose at the carburetor.
   Let it drain into a container and turn the fuel switch to ON. Let the fuel run and see if it flows freely and for about 30 seconds. If it does not the tank fuel cap may not be allowing any air release into the tank.
2. check air filter for dirt or stoppage.
3. check spark plug gap .Clean the head of the spark plug and Fix it back .
4. If u find the head of the spark plug to be moist or if it doesn't work better change it .

If you have already checked your bulb and fuses, you probably have a wiring issue. Check connections at the taillight and under the seat where the taillight harness plugs in.

Run the engine, then pull the spark plugs out to see which one is wet.