Top 20 1994 Honda CBR 600 F(2)R Questions & Answers

With a voltmeter check to see if terminals show several volts higher than battery specs when bike is running. If so then replace battery. If not have charging system checked out.

would recommend putting a 20w 50 synthetic motorcycle oil in its a little more expensive I think its like 13 dollars a quart and it takes 3.5 quarts

do you have a fuel pump on the engine case ? is the fuel system flooding ?

yea liquid glass or the gasket is only 50 to 100 bucks

what does this even say you illiterate dummy

head gasket gone

sidestand and clutch lever lockout switches need checking

Will it not turn over because you have a dead battery or did something else happen, like it sat for a long period of time or someone ran it with the wrong oil or fuel? When was the last time it operated normally? What has happened since then?

I had an older 600, and the fuel was in the on position when pointing straight up (12 o'clock). Reserve was in the 3 o'clock position, and off was the 9'oclock position. Hope this helps.

No, the syncing only comes into play when you are SHIFTING. What you are likely hearing is a chain hitting something during deceleration. Look into chain thightness. Remember to check the chain at it's tightest spot. That means you need to carefully roll the bike, while feeling the chain, for 10 feet or so. Just find the tightest spot of the chain's normal rotation, and adjust at that spot. )Failure to do this burns out bearings quickly.)

I bet you are just slightly out of adjustment....it is normal. Also, clean your chain and lube it when hot.

well ive fixed this problem multiple times with my bike it definantly sounds like your carbs need to be cleaned, when u leave a bike sitting for a while and leave gas in the bike it will clog up your carberators once those are cleaned the bike should start right up

check pulse generator circuit for any opens or shorts..even if you still show a weak purplish/red spark its bad..it must be a big bluish/white spark..check plug #1 for spark and then check #3 foe spark if there both week then its your pulse generators that are bad ..but if one of them has a blushish spark then it that systems coil..eg #1and#4 or the #2and #3 coils..

Sounds like the carbs were not properly cleaned or set up. Choke should cause the cold start rpms to be higher than what you are experiencing. Application of choke to a warmed up engine will usually cause the engine to stall.

Anything that says "Tested and proven non-corrosive on even the most exotic metals". You can't go wrong with Honda Products.

I dont know if your bike has a number nere the ignition hole or not but if it does go to ebay and look for spare keys and match the number up with the key if it does not have a number then youll have to get a new ignition switch.

Are yuou sure you have checked all your fuses and they are in prime condition?
How is your battery state, is it an old or new battery?
Your charging state (rectifier/regulator) is it charging properly?
Check yourelectrical wiring system for any sign of wire short circuit.
Happy hunting and is it a good advice?

Have you checked all your fuses, are they in good condition?
Check your rectifier/regulator, that is a grey-black squarish box with thin fins under your LH cover with a Yellow and Black wiring on top and I believe a Black and Yellow w/Green strip in the bottom. Use a digital Amp meter to test continuity and get a reading when bikke is off then get the bike running and see what is the reading, when off it should give 0.1 to 1.0 Volt then when running should generate 13.4 to 14.2 Volt. If not hen there is a possibility your rectifier need to be replaced.

Good enough advise?

good day Sir, try this link hope it will help you

honda

This is a sign of a bad head gasket. This is the only area the two can mix. Either a bad gasket or a cracked head.

iF YOU ARE NOT GETTING A SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER THEN
1 CHECK FOR POWER TO COILS WITH A METER
IF NONE THEN SUSPECT :- THE IGNITION FUSE - VISUALLY CHECK THE WIRING - A BAD CONNECTION IN THE IGNITION CIRCUIT - THE KILL OR SIDESTAND OR CLUTCH SWITCH, OR EVEN THE IGNITION SWITCH.
2 IF THERE IS POWER THEN SUSPECT THE PICK-UP (PULSAR) COILS & WIRING FROM THERE TO THE CDI - & LASTLY BY A PROCESS OF ELIMINATION SUSPECT THE CDI (ITS GENERALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO CHECK THE CDI APART FROM VISUALLY & BY REPLACEMENT)

I HOPE THIS HELPS, IF SO PLEASE MARK AS USEFUL
RIDE-SAFE
BIKE-DOC