20 Most Recent 1994 Honda VT 600 C Shadow - Page 2 Questions & Answers

yes for sure the fuel brakes down and leaves a residue in them blocks the jets as well,cheers hope this helps

Try new spark plug caps. The resisters often burn out and cause poor running off idle. On some models the caps are part of the wire and are replaced as an assembly out of the coil. To save money use genuine NGK spark plug caps (about $5 each). They simply screw on to the end of the wire. If the cap reads higher or lower than 5000 OHM's it should be replaced. The copper core spark plug wire can be purchased in bulk for $1 to $2 a foot. It can be cut to length and used as an inexpensive replacement for the stock Honda wire/cap assemblies that sell for $25 to $45 each.

you have 2 bolts on both sides of seat you must remove. Then firmly from front to back slide back and forth it will come loose
and then slide out .

Any oil with the JASO MA motorcycle certification. 10w-40 for cold climate, 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label. It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Synthetic oil will help your bike run cooler and shift easier. You will need 4 quarts of oil , an oil filter, and a new aluminum sealing washer for the drain plug.

Consider joining the Honda Rider Club at http://hrca.honda.com/

Free membership gets you access to the generic manual while a paid membership gets you access to the manual for your mode according to info at the site.

lol you cant....

they are not stock, just call your local Honda shop ask for the parts desk, tell them what you want. They will help you get the right carb parts. without vacuume gauges you might just pay for the work to be done,

I am sure you have checked gable is not kinked, check air cleaner replace if dirty check throttle on carby and crc spray around it .check the outer case on throttle cable isn't slipping through clamp. Hope something helps.

fill it up tilll the oil hits the dip stick mand then record that and there u go

time for new sealshttp://www.oldbikebarn.com/Fork-Seal-39-ID-x-52-OD-x-10mm and here is how to do it http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/replace_fork_seals/index.html
hope that helps you out

you can down load one here for free,it takes a while to load,lots of bikes.
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

Hi,
There is no real correct "max" weight. The bikes suspension travel will produce limits in handling and top speed as the weight increases, It should be able to carry to 2 adults with ease, say 180kg, If you are carrying big loads, then additional tyre pressure would be advisable. Upgrades in rear spring rates would be advisable also if you intend to do touring with heavy loads. You can get a full service manual here for the correct pressures to run and suspension adjustments you can make for high loads. Cheers
regards robotek

In the factory tool set in your bike should be a spanner wrench. It has a handle and looks like a C on the other end. Look on the top or bottom of the shock and you will see holes going all the way around it. The tip of the wrench fits into a hole and turns that part of the shock. Sometimes the shock has a little sticker on it with numbers 1 thru 5. If not, just turn it one click at a time to see all of the ride settings. Remember giving it more height will also make it a bouncier ride. Hope this helps...

Remove the seat and then remove the single bolt that holds the rear of the gas tank down. From that point, slide the tank back and off of the two rubber bushings that the front of the tank is resting on. Disconnect the fuel and vacuum lines from the petcock - then lift the tank from the bike.

BEFORE YOU START
You are haveing carb problems.
Make sure that dirty carbs are actually your problem. Lots of things can make a bike run poorly or not start. Weak battery, corroded electrics, old spark plugs, bad timing, low compression, mis-adjusted valves, dirty air filter, and plugged exhausts can all cause poor running. I'll write an article eventually on how to diagnose poor running conditions shortly, but for now - lets just deal with the carbs.

There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also have effects on performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.

Carb Cleaning 101
Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o’rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve’s seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve’s spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve’s tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.

Choke Plungers: It is common for Mikuni slide carburetors to have indented or hardened choke plunger pads. If the pads are worn, indented or hardened with age, then the idle of your bike will vary wildly as the pads no longer seal well.

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or verneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It’s a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).

the on position is controlled by intake vacuum and shuts down the flow when not running, reserve bypasses this and can be used for priming the engine, off means off, i hope this helps

One of the floats are stuck open. Try to unstick it by rapping the carb kind of hard with a large screw driver handle or some thing like that.

Less than one, if you've ever done it before. Not much more even if your new at it.

should be a bolt at the back of the seat,(some are under fender, some on top) remove it , press front of seat down and pull backward at the same time

remove the chain. dont loose the pin. loosen the axle nut remove the axle. have a hand on the wheel as it will drop out at this point. install will be a bit harder. i like to lower the bike once the tire is under the fender. lower it until the holes are almost lined up. it beats trying to balance a tire and slip teh axle back in place. be sure to tighten the axle bolt to torque spec. too loose and you can get a shake, too tight and you can alter the path of the chain by a fraction and may cause premature chain wear.