20 Most Recent 1993 Honda CBR 1000 F Questions & Answers

Firstly I would check that the rear brake return spring is working and returning the pedal to the full up position, next try the rear master cylinder, and then the proportion control valve because it seems as though you have a sticking problem.

with the bike running put a volt meter across both battery terminals to see if it is getting charged the bike has a rectifyer and a the stator working to charge the battery as it is running the stator is driven off the crankshaft inside the engine casing casing

Left side under seat in seat fairing, remove two bolts holding passenger handrail and slide backwards.

Any time you have a starting problem start with the simplest and work your way back. Battery-fire-fuel. ensure the battery is fully charged, if it still doesn't start check to see if it has fire getting one of the little spark test lights is easiest, but if not, a screwdriver in the end of the spark wire and hold screwdriver about 1/4 inch from a grounded source and turn over if you see spark try with all. If no spark, problem is before plugs. A good practice is to unplug all harnesses and check for corrosion, spray with contact cleaner, then anti-corrosion spray and reconnect. If you have spark check fuel. Spray starting fluid in carbs as you crank. Next would be pulse generator, etc.

It is located on the right side under the seat right about where it says "CBR" on the seat fairing, you will have to remove the two bolts that hold the passenger handrail on and slide the fairing backwards.

Remove the seat, remove two screw holding cables to battery, remove overflow vent pipe from tip sticking out, pull up and out.

G'day'
Tested Yellow wires to ground - and there IS conunuity - THEN the stator IS faulty.
Remove the stator & inspect for burning.

really hope this helps

Regards Andrew Porrelli

G'day.
It is possible to get a faulty reg from new but extremely unlikely.Obviously they are all tested at the factory before packaging.As are all electrical parts.Which are non-returnable in most cases too I'm sorry to say.
Try this test.
With you multi-meter set to ohms & set to the highest scale(k ohms) check the conunuity between each of the three stator wires TO EARTH.
So, disconect the regulator conector at the reg.
Connect one meter probe to a yellow wire & the other probe to earth.(make sure your fingers arn't touching the metal part of the probes or you'll get a false reading).
You should get an open circuit-no conunuity.
If any of the three yellow wires has any conunuity to earth then the stator is at fault.
Sometimes on occasion it has been known for a winding to take a short circuit,without grounding efectivly by-passing only part of the coil & reducing the output of the stator.But again extremely rare.
Seeing that the alternator cover is reasonably easy to remove(I did a Triumph daytona stator removal recently in about 1/2 an hour),I would suggest if all else fails & you're not sure what to do, remove the alternator cover & visually inspect the stator to see if any burning is visable.
If the stator is burnt out in any way, it is common for a pungent smell to come from the stator-You'll notice it when you seperate the cover.
I hope that this has been in some way helpfull
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli.

Replace the voltage regulator before it kills the rest of the system.

No it is under the right handlebar under that little piece of plastic with the screw in it.

no ...you have a rear brake pedal to control the rear brake and the front is controlled by a brake lever which supplies 3/4 of all stopping power. Dont ever slam down on the rear brake pedal just apply it gradually.

If the chain and sprockets are in good condition and adjusted properly ( 1 1/2" slack ), you should check the rear wheel sprocket dampers. These are made of rubber and can deteriorate over time. If the dampers are bad you will be able to move the rear sprocket forward and back while the bike is sitting still. It is an easy fix to replace them, just remove the rear wheel and sprocket. they are model specific parts and should be available from your local dealer.
Steve

Your engine oil is your tranny oil. I don't think you have a separate gear box with 90 weight oil. Most bikes have the engine oil in there. I think you have a dry clutch, maybe not, but if not, you have engine oil in there too. Hope this helps.

Yes this will cause engine problems. check with a new battery and a multi meter across the battery terminals, it should read around 13.5v and be a stable reading, much higher or fluctuating wildly, the regulator is bad

If you have bled the system, and calipers are full retracting properly, and caliper pistons are not sticking, I would test or replace the distribution valve that are in these units. They have been known to go faulty

Your bike has defective cylinder head gasket, or cracked cylinder / cylinder head.

Check to make sure the choke is working properly, then check all your fuel lines for brittleness.air cracks. They need to hold the pressure required to bring the fuel to the carb.

It would not hurt to thoroughly clean and gap the plugs, but after all this, try using a spray can of carb cleaner to spray through the carb and clean out build ups of gum and varnish. When you do, run at a rather fast idle, because the introduction of the carb cleaner will bog the engine down. After all, it is burning gunk. THEN clean or replace the plugs.

Good luck!

Sirwriter

Best would be is to set your bike opposite a wall and switch on the head lights keeping the engine running so as not to drain the battery and thn fiddle wth one screw and note how the rays go..
there must be two screws to adjust..one to adjust the head light to go up or down and the other for sideways.
Hope this helps!