20 Most Recent 1993 Honda CB 250 Nighthawk Questions & Answers

The engine is starving for fuel. look at the carburetor for blocked jets.

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Check and see if magneto is charging. my just be putting out enough to run lights. or there is a diode that prevents it from discharging. after riding make sure there is enough charge to start the bike. Disconnect the battery, come back in the morning if the battery starts bike then the diode is probably shot and allowing magneto to discharge battery

is it sparking on plugs ? how old is fuel ? battery good ? fuses ok ? give me more details ! P...

try slackening the valve gaps , did you clean the valves and re lap them in with paste , you got a spark , check compressions , fuel good and timing correct ?

What did you adjust the valves to? On your bike, the adjusters are adjusted when the motor is stone cold, and there is a prescribed gap (checked with a feeler gauge) between the valve adjuster and the end of the valve. This gap is in the manual (along with the torque you're asking about), which is only $31.95 http://www.bikebandit.com/clymer-manual-honda-twinstar-rebel-250-nighthawk-250-1978-2003-manual-m3245?m=151546

you have a disconnected wire in the switch housing on your on off switch.
either broke wire or bad/dirty switch not making contact.

As for the key switch, your wire in the key switch harness that shuts the power off to the coils is touching a constant hot wire, probably at the back of the switch.
Get a test light and find which wires are hot when the key is switched on and then when its switched off. If wires seem okay, the the problem is in the switch itself.

Check the wires first with a test light.

The loss of power is usually due to the need for a valve job. Do a compression check. If compression is lower than 120 psi a valve job is called for. While you have the head off, install new rings. Considering the age of the bike, a new cam chain would not be a bad idea as well. Another possibility is a lean fuel/air mixture; If the bike has an idle speed that you can not get to slow down then there is an air leak letting un-carbureted air into the mix. Cracked rubber seals or bad gasket on the intake manifold would be the likely source.

Poss diaphram problem, on the side of the carbs you will see a small cover secured by 3small screws, inside here there is a small diaphram used for adding fuel while you slow down from speed to save backfireing in the exhaust, when this fails exsess fuel is added to the engine while running, when you remove the cover dont loose the small oring

drop down a couple of teeth in the rear or dont ride it so fast!

You actually mean engine oil, the transmission is not separate from the engine.
10w40

Try Steve's Cycle Salvage, Tifton, Georgia.
1-800-622-9253

you will be able to see rubber like bushes in between the joints of forks. oil leaks generally if they wear down. you can replace them easily and doesn't cost too much either.call a mechanic to do it, because alignment problems may occur if you do it yourself(unless you know to do it perfectly)

Your fuel mixture is too lean.Need more gas.Need to adjust your carb.When you say idle screw do you by any chance mean the mixture screw?That one should be set at 2,5 turns counterclockwise from full in position.The idle screw is the on that lifts the slight with the needle.That one should not lift the slight barrel more than 1mm from the bottom.You will adjust it again later while the engine is running to reach 1100rpm.

Usually this would be the side stand sensor. I would have thought that it would be normally closed circuit to operate though. Have you tried linking out the sensor wires? ie joining them together.

Either engine can be made to fit the frame but lining up drive sprockets will be difficult without swing arm mod

Just a guess, but sometimes when a load is applied to some motors, if they stall or bog down, they probably need a valve adjustment.