Top 20 1992 Honda XR 250 R Questions & Answers

could also be piston rings or the valves need reseating ! not a major job but get him to drop the price a couple of hundred to cover you !

Hi.

About the float valve, the float and needle/valve system determines the amount fuel coming into the carburetor chamber. The fuel in the chamber goes later to the jets. All that you have to regulate is the needle height. Regulation can be done according to specs.

Here service manual with specs:Honda XR250R 96-04

or: Honda XR250R 96-04

If they do not work, use: Honda XR250R 96-04

Here a link showing pictures and steps of float regulation.

Once you are in the float chamber, check the valve, clean the chamber and the valve system.

The valve sometimes can become sticky, particularly if the bike has been left standing for a while. To do maintenance on the valve, remove the carb cover and lift the float gently, ensuring that the needle is free to move without sticking.To clean the system, take out the float pin, remove float and needle and spray carb cleaner using a pad to clean needle and the seat. When you reinstall, be sure that the needle pin is shaped correctly and sitting properly in the carb.

Here an exploded of the carb, click on the picture to enlarge:



Near to the needle, in the float chamber there are the jet valves. These can be adjusted using a special wrench tool. If you do not have the tool, the screw can be turned into a regular screw by using a mini-saw to cut a line in the middle of the screw head

i had the same pronlem this year cleaned the carb emtied the gas changed the oil and it would run but when i got on it it would cough and not produce power so i took the sparkplug outn filed it down and put some gas on it it fired right up n ran great for about 20 min so i replaced the sparkplug n it runs great now

First, remove the lower end of the speedo cable from the speedo gear box on the front axle. Then, lift the front wheel off the ground and remove the wheel. To remove the speedo-drive gear box, unscrew the axle nut that holds it in place. With the speedo-drive removed, inspect the two flanges that fit into the slots on the wheel hub, making sure they haven't gotten bent - or sheared off. When you turn flange on the speedo-drive, it should turn freely and you should be able to see the speedo cable drive-blade spinning. If not, then you will need to replace the whole unit because the worm gear inside has become excessively worn.

hi buddy in order for it too go on you need to get a big flat head screw driver and just push the pads open inside then it goes onn get back to me iff still incorrect

Usually found under the seat. It will have either 2 or 3 wires going to it.
Trick is to turn blinkers on, and disconnect relays until lights go out.
Then you have found correct relay.
It does sound like a faulty relay

TL

remove the two bolts holding it on

Hello!
I have had similar problems to you in the past and believe me just trying to wack it out can open one Hell of a Hornets Nest.(Bent shafts ruined threads)
More so the grief I've had has been on British Machines however your symptoms seem identical, Corrosion possibly or crud 'n' **** build up and although we think the good old Jet wash cleans somtimes in the Swing Arm area it can be Fatal, it pushes the sand and crud deaper into the seals.
I don't know how quickly you need remove the Swinging Arm but suggest trying a quality penetrating oil and after a good soak may be a little heat from a blow torch. Bear in mind Flame and Oil make Fire so keep a hose pipe or fire extinguisher handy. If it is threaded? Try turning opposite direction after soaking all gaps with oil it may be left hand thread? also see if there are any Grub Screws hiding underneath, finally If there are Grease Nipples give it a good grease before removing them and gently warming up the bearing areas. Good Luck!
You are doing this hopefully to replace worn bearings?
Paul 'W'
Onyer~EDson(:0)~[><

depends if your doing a lot of short outings etc ! ? if the oil is black then change it , do 100km after oil change and check condition ! mite take a few oil changes to get clean unless your up to stripping the engine and clean everything !? if using for competition then its different again , change after each meeting as harder work out and need to keep quality of oil to max ! also the piston and rings are changed after every meeting , try and get the xr manuel as its got the periods of replacements etc !

check carb is clean and settings , check timing !

Could be coil or kill switch... check spark plug wire and contact by pulling off and checking if it will arc when held within 1/4" from a metal part close enough to reach... do this when dark so u can see the arc if and when it happens... if no arc then replace wire, then coil... Good luck

you sure that the needle isnt bent,

Go to http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/576969-1979-honda-xr80-wiring/

Hi There.
There is no bearing in the forks. you are trying to take aparts the triple trees.
to remove the front forks
jack bike up
remove front wheel
remove fender
loosen the clamps that go around the forks.
there are 2 triple trees, upper and lower , the upper has the nut your taking off, of course the lower is the bottom. both have clamps that hold the forks in.
then just pull and twist in a downward motion to get the forks out.

reinstallation is reverse steps.
note how much fork is sticking up through the hole in the top triple prior to removal.

if you do want to remove the triple trees and replace your neck bearings, you will have to cut the bottom bearing off, i've never been able to remove those bearings without ruiing them.
that bearing is a very tight fit.

Hope this helps you out.
thumbs up to the do-it-yourselfers
Best regards
Big Al

Honda engines are traditionally 4 stroke. If the exhaust comes out of the head it is a 4 stroke, if the exhaust comes out of the cylinder it is a two stroke.

take a long crowbar fit it between the bolts and crack the bolts with a breaker bar in an opposing or star pattern use a mapp gas or propane torch VERY CARFULY hit the area around the bold for 4 seconds to overcome any loctite if you cant break with a bar by hand first there is a better way but it involves a specialty tool or two

check for damage to the kill switch or wiring

check all connections at coil and any wireing, make sure your getting fuel through carb.

Put the motor at Top Dead Center "TDC" on the compression stroke of the number 1 cylinder. Then loosen and tighten the cam chain adjuster bolt on the back of the cylinder.
If you are dealing with an automatic cam chain tensioner that has gone bad. Unbolt it from the back of the cylinder and replace it. Or if it is internal, take off the valve cover, unbolt the tensioner from the back of the cylinder, slide it out the top of the head, slide in the new one, set the motor to TDC , and set the tension on the new tensioner.

what chain are trying to replace?? your question is very clear what kind of bike is it
Mark Woodring