Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee around $10 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download for viewing or printing.
To download your manual please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day Honda XR250R Service Manual http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda XR250R Owner Manual Honda XR250R Honda XR250R and XR250L
About the float valve, the float and needle/valve system determines the amount fuel coming into the
carburetor chamber. The fuel in the chamber goes later to the jets. All that you have to regulate is the needle height. Regulation can be done according to specs.
Once you are in the float chamber, check the valve, clean the chamber and the valve system.
The valve sometimes can become sticky, particularly if the bike has been left standing for a while. To do maintenance on the valve, remove the carb cover and lift the
float gently, ensuring that the needle is free to move without sticking.To clean the system, take out the float pin, remove float and needle and spray carb cleaner using a pad to clean needle and the seat. When you reinstall, be sure that the needle pin is shaped correctly and sitting properly in the carb.
Here an exploded of the carb, click on the picture to enlarge:
Near to the needle, in the float chamber there are the jet valves. These can be adjusted using a special wrench tool. If you do not have the tool, the screw can be turned into a regular screw by using a mini-saw to cut a line in the middle of the screw head
i had the same pronlem this year cleaned the carb emtied the gas changed the oil and it would run but when i got on it it would cough and not produce power so i took the sparkplug outn filed it down and put some gas on it it fired right up n ran great for about 20 min so i replaced the sparkplug n it runs great now
First, remove the lower end of the speedo cable from the speedo gear box on the front axle. Then, lift the front wheel off the ground and remove the wheel. To remove the speedo-drive gear box, unscrew the axle nut that holds it in place. With the speedo-drive removed, inspect the two flanges that fit into the slots on the wheel hub, making sure they haven't gotten bent - or sheared off. When you turn flange on the speedo-drive, it should turn freely and you should be able to see the speedo cable drive-blade spinning. If not, then you will need to replace the whole unit because the worm gear inside has become excessively worn.
Usually found under the seat. It will have either 2 or 3 wires going to it.
Trick is to turn blinkers on, and disconnect relays until lights go out.
Then you have found correct relay.
It does sound like a faulty relay
I have had similar problems to you in the past and believe me just trying to wack it out can open one Hell of a Hornets Nest.(Bent shafts ruined threads)
More so the grief I've had has been on British Machines however your symptoms seem identical, Corrosion possibly or crud 'n' **** build up and although we think the good old Jet wash cleans somtimes in the Swing Arm area it can be Fatal, it pushes the sand and crud deaper into the seals.
I don't know how quickly you need remove the Swinging Arm but suggest trying a quality penetrating oil and after a good soak may be a little heat from a blow torch. Bear in mind Flame and Oil make Fire so keep a hose pipe or fire extinguisher handy. If it is threaded? Try turning opposite direction after soaking all gaps with oil it may be left hand thread? also see if there are any Grub Screws hiding underneath, finally If there are Grease Nipples give it a good grease before removing them and gently warming up the bearing areas. Good Luck!
You are doing this hopefully to replace worn bearings?
Hi, Jhun before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD How to diagnose and repair motorcycle charging problems Honda XLR200R Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda http://www.hondampe.com.au/repository/owning_a_honda/owners-manuals/off-road.aspx
Hi, Andrew and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the carburetor.
8. Intake air leak.
9. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.
10. Enricher valve inoperative.
11. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
12. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
13. Faulty ignition coil.
14. Valves sticking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Xr hard start solved Heres the fix How to kick start cold XR250 Honda XR250R Service Manual http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda XR250R Owner Manual