20 Most Recent 1986 Honda XL 125 R Questions & Answers

I had the same problem. I bypass the neutral switch, the green light always stay on, and my atv never shut off again. Be carefull, that way your atv can start even if your transmission is engage in speed

There is quite a bit of work re-boring cylinder blocks, you will need over-sized piston(s) which has to be turned down to the correct size, plus over-sized rings. Doing it properly involves a lot of money, time and expense like valve work and checking the bearings, planeing the head. They used to weld pistons to make them over-sized in NZ. When i arrived in NZ in the 1950's they had lots of old chugers (model A's) on the road from the 1920', usually American made. NZ People were fantastic engineers, they made and adapted parts from scratch to keep these cars on the road.

the capacity is cast into the caseing near the oil filler will look something like 800cc or 1000cc

1000 cc =1 litre

If it is on the right hand side of the bike then yes. Remove the clutch cable by undoing the adjustment nuts on the engine side of the cable and unhooking from the lever. Remove the nut on the gearshift pedal and pull of the pedal. Remove the dipstick. Undo all the nuts on the cover, and remove it. Locate the new gasket on the engine. There are 2 locating dowels so it should not have diffyculty staying in place. Replace the cover and clutch cable and readjust the clutch cable.
On the left hand side of the engine is a bit more tricky as the oil is not leaking past the gasket on the cover itself. There are 2 places where it can leak from. One is behind the drive sprocket. Remove the cover. Undo the nut on the sprocket. Bend back the tabs on the locking plate and remove the sprocket. Drive a self tapping screw into the shaft seal and pull it out with a pair of pliers. Drive a new on back in place. Also see this : http://www.fixya.com/motorcycles/t5649906-1996_yamaha_yz250
If the leak is from behind the alternator you will have to remove the magneto. This is diffycult as you need a puller to get the flywheel off the crank. Then the alternator assembly and only then will you be able to reach the shaft seal. This can be removed as per the previous link.

Most older Honda atv's use a 6007 rear bearing (96150-60070-10) However Parts Unlimited and Dennis Kirk sell rear wheel bearing kits with seals that have everything you need to do the job. The kit typically sells for about the price of one Honda OEM bearing and is shipped right to your door(Dennis Kirk). If you want to look up the part numbers go to babbittsonline.com and use there microfiche. They have reasonable prices if you want to place an order.

Have you checked the resistance values for the genny, or it may just be something as simple as the kill switch, try bypassing it to eliminate it.

Hope this helps

You should easily chase down a second hand one from a bike breaker

which impeller shaft? is it XL125? If you mean drive shaft the air wrench will work

Hello. The battery is above the front end of the rear tire. Get down under the plastic body and look. Joe

it probably under the seat. there a little catch on the side. It should pop right off.

Do not use a screw driver. There is a tool with a curved tip to go underneth the seal and pull up or buy a seal remover on the internet.
The curved looks like a spring puller - it might work

It sounds like you must have a relatively old bike to be dealing with breaker points. If you are sure your points are OK, I would suspect the condenser next. They are relatively inexpensive (if still available for your bike) and usually require only a mounting screw and a connecting screw to replace. Next, check the ignition coil and the high tension wire to your spark plug. Of course, I'm assuming that you are working with a good spark plug.

sounds like a blocked or restricted idle jet

their could be a lot of problems plugs plug wires and your carburator

Steve. While I would never tell anyone to bypass a safety switch. You can usually pull it off and wrap it in electrical tape. That way you are not riding while trying to hold it down. Sometimes you can jump the wires across each other to bypass the switch too. But it depends if the switch is a closed or open switch. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

has the bike sat for awhile if so the point will need cleaned

Possibly, but you can short it out to prove the switch. try pulling the clutch in when you start. The stand cut out should only cut the engine if the bike is in gear.

hi...put kickstand up 1st befor putting in gear....as this how bigger hondas work its a safety thing so u carnt ride off with side stand down...but cuts engine if kickstand still down & then wont start as you in gear.....even if kickstand up wont start in gear!!...hope this helps