20 Most Recent 2008 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King Classic - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I assume you mean it leaks where the cable goes into the transmission cover on the right hand side? The cable at that end has an o-ring to seal it, and yours might be bad, and needs replacing.

Do you mean a auto code reader? If so, I haven't seen an adapter for that. If you want to use the code reader just to retrieve error codes (DTCs), on your bike you don't even need a reader. Turn the Ignition switch to the OFF position. Set the Run/Stop switch to the Run position. Push in the odometer reset button and hold. Turn on the ignition switch and release the odometer reset button. The process has been completed correctly when the speedometer needle sweeps across the speedometer and all indicator lamps illuminate. The speedometer will also display "DIAG." Press the odometer reset button once. "PSSPt" will display on the speedometer. Each letter signifies an area of the diagnostics testing, with the current selection flashing. Push the odometer reset button to scroll through the components for testing. Press and hold the odometer reset button for 5 seconds, then release. Any codes stored will be displayed on the speedometer. If no codes are stored, the speedometer will display "NONE." Press the odometer reset button again to view additional codes, if any. Record the codes and refer to your service manual for possible faults or conditions. Turn off the Ignition switch to exit the diagnostics testing.

Connector #s1 = orange wire = ignition2 = green/blue = serial data3 = not used4 = not used5 = red/grey = battery6 = orange/white = accessory7 = black/green = ground8 = black = trip odometer reset9 = yellow/white = fuel level10 = not used11 = black = trip odometer reset12 = not used

Your engine size shoule be 1340cc Evo

I have a 2008 Road King Classic (FLHRC) and on mine, both the oil drain and transmission drain is a hex head bolt, 5/8" I seem to recall.

Typically Harley uses a red and a green wire on their tail light assemblies. The red wire is usually the brake light, green being the tail light.

Using a test light, turn the switch on, push the probe into the red wire, and step on the rear brake pedal. If the test light illuminates when you step on the brake pedal, you've got the right wire for the brake light. The green wire should be "hot" whenever the ignition switch is "on" and the headlight is on.

Pull the error codes.To retrieve fault codes:With engine run/stop switch in the RUN position, hold odometer reset button while turning ignition switch to ON position.Speedometer back lights wil come on, needle swings to top speed position, indicator lights will come on.Release reset button."diag" should display in odometer.Push and release odometer reset button. The letter "P" will flash (ECM/ICM info obtainable).Record any error codes. If none are present, "NONE" will scroll across screen.Press and hole reset button for more than 5 seconds to go to next mode ("S" = TSM/TSSM/HFSM mode).When done with all modes, switch off ignition.Either look up codes in manual, or repost here.

Check fuses, any thing added lately?

Disconnected wire. Review your work ...

I have a 2008, and for solo, air the shocks to 10 psi, me and the wife, 15 psi.The air valve is behind the left saddle bag under the chrome trim rail.

The owners manual for my 2008 Road King Classic says to down shift from 6th to 5th at about 60 MPH, not 75 MPH.

I don't understand this.I have a 2008 FLHRC Road King Classic, and the oil fill SCREWS on, not pushes on!A screw on cap wouldn't blow off.

The usual reasons the fob doesn't disarm the security system is:1) a damaged fob2) discharged fob battery (Panasonic 2032 or equivalent)3)electromagnetic interference a. verify the fob in not in a metal enclosure or within 3" of any other electronic device. b. place the fob on the seat, start motor and return fob to pocket. c. move the bike at least 15' from the spot of interference.With the Fob near the bike, try disabling the security system.You'll need the PIN number.If you don't know it, you'll have to change it to a 5 digit PIN number you select.With the fob present, turn IGN switch: IGNITION-OFF-IGNITION-OFF-IGNITIONPress LEFT turn signal switch 3 TIMESPress RIGHT turn signal switch 1 TIME and release Turn signals will flash 3 times. Current PIN will appear in odometer. The first digit will be flashing.If changing PIN, enter first digit (a) of new PIN by pressing LEFT signal switch (a) time(s) i.e., for the number 1, press one time. for the number 5, press 5 times.Press RIGHT signal switch 1 TIME and release. the new digit (a) will replace the current in odometer window.Enter second digit (b) with LEFT signal switch.Repeat until PIN is set.Once PIN is set (either new or old PIN), to disarm security system, DO NOT sit on seat, lift bike off kick stand, or anything else that will activate the security mode!Turn IGN to IGNITION.Quickly (within 2 seconds) hold BOTH turn signal switches until confirmation signal (KEY icon flashes at fast rate, in odometer window, a flashing "-" will be followed by 4 more dashes = "----")Enter 1st digit (a) in PIN by pressing LEFT turn signal switch (a) times (i.e., 5 times for the number 5)The 1st "-" will become the 1st digit (i.e., "5")Press RIGHT switch signal 1 TIME.The 1st digit is stored and the dash will flash.Enter 2nd digit (b), and repeat sequence until done.After the 5th digit is entered, the KEY icon stops blinking, and the system is disarmed.The system will stay off until the IGN switch is turned off.If at any time during disarming sequence an error is made, wait 2 minutes before trying again.

Put in and tighten!

Retrieve fault codes:With engine run/stop switch in the RUN position, hold odometer reset button while turning ignition switch to ON position.Speedometer back lights wil come on, needle swings to top speed position, indicator lights will come on.Release reset button."diag" should display in odometer.Push and release odometer reset button. The letter "P" will flash (ECM/ICM info obtainable).Record any error codes. If none are present, "NONE" will scroll across screen.Press and hole reset button for more than 5 seconds to go to next mode ("S" = TSM/TSSM/HFSM mode).When done with all modes, switch off ignition.Either look up codes in manual, or repost here.

Jack bike so front wheel is off the ground.Push handlebar to left until front end starts to continue turn by itself.When it hits the fork stop (rubber bumper), it should bounce to the right, fall back to the left, then bounce right one more time before stopping, somewhere around the center position.Remove headlight nacelle.Remove steering stem nut (on top of top triple clamp).Under the top triple clamp is a star adjuster ring.Tighten to decrease swing (tightening bearings).Loosen to increase swing (loosening bearings).Reinstall steering stem nut (60-80 ft/lbs).Reinstall headlight nacelle.

Disconnect the harness connector from the speedometer.Check for voltage on terminal "B" of fuel pump/level sender connector.If voltage is present, locate and repair the short to voltage.If voltage is not present, connect the breakout box (part # HD-42682) to the speedometer and it's harness connector.Check for continuity between terminal 9 of the breakout box and terminal "A" of the fuel pump/level sender connector.If continuity is not present, repair the break in the yellow/white wire.If continuity is present, check for continuity to chassis ground on the terminal "C" of the fuel pump/level sender connector.If continuity is not present, repair the break in the black/green wire.If continuity is present, repair/replace the fuel pump/level sender.

Usually, starter grind is either incorrect pinion gear and clutch ring engagement, or a damaged overrunning clutch drive assembly.

There is a clutch in the starter motor which holds the starter gear away from the main shaft when it is not turning. this can seize and would cause the problem you are indicating.

About the only ways air can get into the system is either a leak somewhere, or the master cylinder is too low on fluid, but it REALLY has to be low for this to happen.When you installed the new caliper, did you use NEW sealing washers for the banjo fitting?Finally, when you bleed the brakes make sure that the caliper is oriented so the bleeder valve is at the highest point.I have bleed the brakes before on one bike and had a problem getting all the air out. Turns out the caliper was positioned so the bleeder was towards the lower part of the caliper.I had to rotate the caliper in order to bleed the air out, then reposition it correctly when done.