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2005 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat Boy - Page 9 Questions & Answers
Rocker Cover leak
The fasteners should be checked for correct torque/retorqued every 5k miles. At this mileage you shouldn't have leakage if this maintenance was done, so it likely was not. Start by doing the maint. here is the tech bulletin with instructions: TM1132 . There are gaskets/o-rings, also at the cylinder bases. If your performance is fine and retorquiing doesn't take care of leakage, just do the top end gasketing, not the cylinders. It is not difficult but you will need a tech manual. If you need further help, reach me via phone at
https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_1f7d1c330c9dd97d
Rear brake problems
"pedal all the way down, no movement of caliper"Sounds like hydraulic problem.Check if you have enough brake fluid.If so, it could be a bad master cylinder.Rear brake light switch won't work without hydraulic pressure (which also works the caliper), while front brake light switch is mechanical.
2002 FaTBOY starter not inguaging
Does it rotate? Try giving it a tap with a soft faced mallet prior to starting. If this works you will need to get the starter motor serviced.
I own a 1988 fat
I would check the compression on the engine. It should be about a hundred pounds and there should be no more than 10% difference between the cylinders. The next thing I'd do is check the primarys of the coil. Your bike came with a dual fire ignition system on it from the factory so this means that the ignition system is not stock. This is where I'd be suspicious. The coil will have three terminals on it if it's a single fire coil. Check between the center terminal and the outer terminals. You should have 2-3 ohms resistance from the center terminal to one of the outer terminals. Check center to one terminal, then center to the other terminal. If this checks good, it may be the ignition unit itself. Take the cover off of the timer cavity in the nosecone of your engine and go for a ride. If this cures the problem, then you know this is it, getting hot and misfiring. If it keeps missing, stop by a Radio Shack or an electronics supply house and purchase a small can of "component cooler". Ride the bike until it starts missing and spray a bit of the cooler on the ignition unit. See what happens. It could be a vacuum leak as well. Might be the intake to head gaskets or the intake manifold seal where the carb plugs in if the carb is stock.
Good Luck
Steve
Where do i connect hot
un used wire at headlite i think its yellow..chechttp://harleytalking.com/login.php?do=logout&logouthash=1313501436-eb7a83064e08c13f62cc323a7bbce4a8d217cd8dk here 2..
What type of oil should
Your bike came from the factory with H-D Syn3 20W50 synthetic engine oil. There are many other brands that are very good oils. Amsoil, Mobil V-Twin, Royal Purple, Red LIne and others. Check their websites for compatibility and recommendations. Harley recommends using oils that are rated for use in diesel engines of 20W50 viscosity.
Good Luck
Steve
My 01 fatboys dim lights
Look to voltage regulator Im thinkin.....check w/ vom.. if you do change id change stator too...good luck..
How do you disconnect the
If your bike has the original Oetiker clamps on them, the only way to get them off is to cut them off with a pair of side cut pliers. They are a band that has been crimped on with a special pair of pliers.
Good Luck
Steve
Is there a steering damper
They aren't fitted as standard, though some people have fitted them as aftermarket ad ons. (So if you had the bike from new, the answer is no, if you bought it second hand, check with the previous owner, though it should be pretty obvious if there is one). The general opinion is that fitting dampners to a Harley wrecks the feel of the bike and if you don't like the feel you have then you should check the headstock and if that's OK consider maybe changing your bars.
ENGINE DIES.IF YOU WAIT A
Engine dies , after it dies it will start , the ignition fault is rare.But cannot ignore.But first get the fuel pressure checked.If the fuel pressure is low, then yes it will die.The engine requires fuel to start and stay running.If the the flow of fuel gets low the engine will die.So first get the fuel pressure checked.If the pressure is checked ok by the garage, then yes other possibilities like battery, voltage regulator, starter, and ignition are to be checked.---------
This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Harley just stopped. no power
Hello and welcome to FixYa!
As a first course of action, I strongly suggest that you have the battery charged or replaced if necessary. If the battery is worn out or faulty it tends not to hold charge which may cause the bike to stall and may cause electrical failure. I believe that you'll be good after the replacement.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!
Adding tranny fluid to a
There's a chrome end cover on the right side of the transmission called the clutch release mechanism. It has a plug in it that takes a large Allen wrench or Hex key. The plug has a dipstick on it. Stand the bike straight up and dip the dipstick into the transmission, do not screw it in. The oil level should be between the two lines. If you drain the transmission it holds 20-24 ounces of lubricant.
Good Luck
Steve
I have a 1995 fat
No, the pushrod adjustment would not effect this because the tappets are hydraulic and will forgive a small misadjustment error. As long as the engine will start up, the pushrods are not the problem and your valves are opening like they should.
I would guess that your problem is pre-ignition or the timing is way off. First off. I've had problems running even high test pump gas with compressions of 10 to 1 in our area. We usually have to mix the fuel with 101 octane racing fuel that we get here locally. We generally go half and half with the blend or you can buy octane booster and add it to the high octane pump fuel.
Next, we set our advanced timing to about 32° rather than the full 35° the factory system or most aftermarket systems run. Use a timing light and set the timing so that the line is right on the forward edge of the timing hole. This is especially important if your running a big cam. I would not ****** the timing to any less than 30° maximum advance or you may run into overheating problems. Head-Quarters makes an ignition unit that has only 30° advance built into it. So, if you set it at TDC, it only advances the ignition 30° to prevent spark knock.
If you're running an aftermarket timing unit that has an adjustable rate of advance on it, back it off to no more than half way. Ride the bike, if it still spark knocks, back it off one more and ride it again,. Continue to back off on the rate of advance until the engine no longer spark knocks.
If you don't have your VOES wired in, I would suggest that you do so. This is the purpose of that switch to prevent spark knock.
Spark knock is an engine destroyer. Some people don't like running a VOES or retarding the timing because they think it robs them of horsepower. I ask them which they rather have, a few less horsepower or a holed piston?
Good Luck
Steve
I am changing the transfer
The case you're changing the oil in is called the primary drive case or "primary" for short. Yes, it does the same thing as a transfer case but in the future you may confuse someone using that terminology.
The drain is a small pipe plug that uses a Torx bit to remove. It's on the underside of the primary cover back directly below the derby cover. You do fill the case through the derby cover opening. With the bike standing straight up, fill the primary with oil until it comes just up to the bottom of the clutch basket, the shiny aluminum drum that holds the clutch plates. It holds about a quart of oil. Do not overfill or the clutch will drag causing you to be unable to find neutral with the engine running.
You say the bolts won't tighten up on the derby cover. Your model should have the five bolt cover and the screws screw into the tapped primary cover. If the threads are stripped out in the primary cover, you can have it repaired by a competent machinist by having them install threaded inserts in the original holes called Timeserts or Keenserts. If the screws will tighten but the cover still leaks, the bolt holes in the cover may be pulled through and standing high on the backside. This will not allowing the cover to seat against the full gasket. In this case, the purchase of a new derby cover would fix the problem.
Good Luck
Steve
Would like to buy a
Try to search online for Rev Tech Motor and type on for Download, you should have the solution for your problem.
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