2005 Harley Davidson FLHRS - FLHRSI Road King Custom - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Arturo. Short term, you can crumple up a ball of HD aluminium foil, unfold it and fold it into 4, and then place it between reservoir and the exhaust and wire it in place. The reason you do this is to create air spaces that will dissipate heat. Long term, something needs moving, the reservoir in, and/or the exhaust moving out.

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You will find it with these guys: www.officialharleyparts.com

Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Are you asking how to remove the rear wheel for a tire change? Need more info.

Oil need to be Full Synthetic 20 W 50 ,because down from 10 to 15 degrees from the engine operating temperature and do not forget that he has the air cooled and it affects a lot of work.I do not know how much it give Manual, but I think it's about 4 liters oil, an oil filter, an O-ring on the plug to change and tools to develop plug and unscrew the filter switch, and then screw it only naraka. Prior to turn the filter smear the rubber seal put your finger a little Oil and spreads. Plug is located at the bottom of the crankcase and unscrew the oil grindstone. There is a thermometer as a cap above the oil tank on the right side of the bike slightly below the seat go away and it should not be a vacuum while running out the old oil.

First check what speedo DTCs are set.

If I were you I would invest in the service manual. You can purchase the actual HD manual in the neighborhood of 80 bucks. I personally have always used the Clymer manuals and the book for your model year is selling for around 30 bucks on Ebay right now. It would be a great investment. Keep the shiny side up!

FIRST remove the left side saddlebag, raise the rear wheel off the ground and adequately support it here and then check the belt deflection at the loosest spot in the belt with the transmission in neutral and the motorcycle cold. Use a belt tension gauge to depress the belt with 10 lbs pressure. With the bike on its jiffy stand and without any rider or luggage and with the rear shocks pressurized to 10 psi the defection should be 1/4 to5/16 inch OR with the motorcycle standing upright without any rider or luggage and with the rear shocks pressurized to 10 psi the defection should be 3/16 to1/4 inch. If deflection needs to be adjusted remove the right saddlebag, the heat shield from the header in front of the muffler and then loosen the muffler clamp and the rear muffler support bolts and remove the muffler and if it does not slip off easily spray some rust solvent around where the two pipes fit and this should then make removal quite easy. On the right side of the axle remove the "E" clip from the end of the axle and loosen the cone nut and if the belt is too loose, tighten it by rotating the weld nut on the axle left side counterclockwise a bit, snug the cone nut slightly to hold the axle in that position and then measure the belt deflection and continue until deflection is where you want it. If the belt is too tight loosen the cone nut and rotate the weldnut a little bit in a clockwise direction and the snug the nut and measure deflection and do these steps until the deflection is correct. When the deflection is correct hold the weld nut on the left side and tighten the cone nut on the right side to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm). And then check the deflection again to be certain that nothing moved while tightening and if deflection is not correct loosen and adjust and tighten again until deflection is correct with the cone nut properly tightened. THEN install a new "E" clip into the grooves in the axle with the rounded edges facing out. Replace the removed parts and you are done.

Drain from the drain plug on the bottom of the primary case and refill only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring through the clutch inspection (derby) cover.

Maybe timing is retarded?

Kinda sounds like your gas caps aren't venting or carb out of adjustment

The bolts are metric and use a 10mm 12 point head. To re-install caliper: 1, Loosely install long caliper mounting bolt into upper lug of front fork leg. 2, Install short caliper mounting bolt into lower lug of front fork leg. Tighten lower mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (37.9-51.5 Nm). 3, Tighten upper caliper mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (37.9-51.5 Nm). 4, Tighten pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm).

Running rich and or timing is set back (retarded) a couple degrees too far. Usually a combination of both.

o un do panel check electrical conection on back it just plugs in

Clogged fuel filter.

The idle might be a little lean. If it's a carb (your model year offered both carb OR fuel injection), richen up the idle mixture screw a touch and see if that helps. If not, check for an air leak at intake manifold, both where the carb attaches to manifold, and where manifold attaches to cylinder head. An air leak will lean out the mixture.

Use a deep socket big enough for the bushing to fit inside. Use that to back up the old bushing, use the new bushing to press out the old one, and a big "C" clamp or vise to provide the power.

look under bike, you will see a grilled like oil pan.there is a drain screw on the front left corner of the oil pan.the one directly under on the right is the primary drain plug. I want too say it a 5/8 nut, also has a spot in the center of nut for an allen rench. I hope this can help. Steve

With battery disconnected, take a meter reading [resistance / ohms] across the battery leads. It sounds like you have close to a short circuit in your primary charging/supply circuit. 0.6 ohm will take out a 20 amp fuse. Ohms law I = V/R. Quite a few other factors to take into account but you'll have to find what's causing the low resistance.