20 Most Recent 2004 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat Boy - Page 4 Questions & Answers

NEVER, self adjusting, spring loaded and cannot be adjusted, need to inspect and replace if more than one half friction material is gone/worn away. With that low mileage it should be a long time before you need to worry about it.

What kind of noise? clunk, grinding? rattle? Does the bike start and run okay.

check jackshaft

bushing for jackshaft may be worn, starter motor may be bad

run a few ounces of carb cleaner thru a full tank of fuel

If this is fuel injected check for low pressure

Check fault codes...although light does stay on longer to show historic codes that need clearing. To clear...access codes then hold the button in until clear message appears. To access codes... 1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run. 2- Push odometer reset button in & hold. 3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear. 4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing. 5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.) P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted]) S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module) SP = speedometer T = tachometer To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist. 1 - Record the codes. 2 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed. NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 3 If the code is current it will reappear. 4 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module. 5 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF. On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected. "No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure. -------------------------- HFSM = Hands Free Security Module TSM = Turn signal module Priority/DTC/Fault condition 1. P0605 ECM FLASH Memory Error 2. P0603 ECM EEPROM Memory Error 3. U1300 ECM Serial Data Low 4. U1301 ECM Serial Data High 5. U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial Data to ECM 6. U1064 Loss of TSM/FSFM Serial Data to ECM 7. P1003 System relay contacts open 8. P1002 System Relay Coil High/Shorted 9. P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low 10. P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed 11. P1009 Incorrect Password 12. P1010 Missing Password 13. P06415 V+Vref 1 Out Of Range 14. P06515 V+Vref 2 Out Of Range 15. P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent 16. P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low 17. P0108 Map Sensor High 18. P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error 19. P1600 EFI Module Processor Internal Error 20. P1270 TGS Validation Error 21. P2107 EFI Module Processor Internal Fault 22. P2122 TGS1 Low/Open 23. P2123 TGS1 High 24. P2127 TGS2 Low/Open 25. P2128 TGS2 High 26. P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor) 27. P0120 TPS1 Range Error 28. P0220 TPS2 Range Error 29. P0122 TPS1 Low 30. P0123 TPS2 High/Open 31. P0222 TPS2 Low 32. P0223 TPS2 High/Open 33. P2135 TPS Correlation Error 34. P2119 EFI Motor Throttle Body Range Performance 35. P2100 EFI Motor Circuit Open 36. P2101 EFI Motor Circuit Range Performance (Actuation Error) 37. P2102 EFI Motor Circuit Low 38. P2103 EFI Motor Circuit High 39. P2176 EFI Closed Position Not Learned 40. P1514 Air Flow Fault 41. P2105 EFI Forced engine shutdown 42. P1501 Jiffy Stand Sensor Low 43. P1502 Jiffy Stand Sensor High 44. P0572 Brake Switch Low 45. P0117 ET Sensor Low 46. P0118 ET Sensor High 47. P0112I AT Voltage Low 48. P0113I AT Voltage Open/High 49. P1351 Front Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low 50. P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low 51. P1352 Front Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted 52. P1355 Rear Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted 53. P1357 Front Cylinder Combustion Intermittent 54. P1358 Rear Cylinder Combustion Intermittent 55. P0261 Front Injector Open/Low 56. P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low 57. P0262 Front Injector High 58. P0264 Rear Injector High 59. P0562 Battery Voltage Low 60. P0563 Battery Voltage High 61. P0501 VSS Sensor Low 62. P0502 VSS Sensor High/Open.. 63. P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion 64. P1353 Front Cylinder No Combustion 65. P0444 Purge Solenoid Open/Low 66. P0445 Purge Solenoid High 67. P1475 Exhaust Actuation Position Error 68. P1477 Exhaust Actuator Open/Low 69. P1478 Exhaust Actuator Shorted/High 70. P0131 Front Oxygen Sensor Low 71. P0151 Rear Oxygen Sensor Low 72. P0132 Front Oxygen Sensor High 73. P0152 Rear Oxygen Sensor High 74. P0134 Front Oxygen Sensor Inactive 75. P0154 Rear Oxygen Sensor Inactive 76. P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode 77. P1511 EFI Power Management Mode 78. P1512 EFI Forced Idle Mode 79. P0577 Cruise Control Input High Priority/DTC/Fault condition HFSM = Hands Free Security Module TSM = Turn signal module 1. U1300 Serial Data Low 2. U1301 Serial Data High 3. U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data 4. U1255 Serial Data Error 5. B1142 Smart Security System Internal Fault 6. B1135 Accelerometer Failed 7. B1136(HFSM) Accelerometer Tip Test Error 8. B1151 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Ground 9. B1152 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Battery 10. B1153 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) High 11. B1154 Clutch Switch Input Short to Ground 12. B1155 Neutral Switch Input Short to Battery 13. B1134 Starter Output High 14. B1121(TSM) Left Turn Output Fault B1121(HFSM) Left Turn Output Open 15. B1122(TSM) Right Turn Output Fault B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open 16. B1123(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Ground 17. B1124(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Ground 18. B1125(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Battery 19. B1126(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Battery 20. B1143(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Ground 21. B1144(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Battery 22. B1145(HFSM) Security Antenna Open 23. B0563 Battery Voltage High 24. B1131(HFSM) Alarm Output Low 25. B1132(HFSM) Alarm Output High 26. B1141(TSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open.. B1141(HFSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open

The battery on your fatboy is certainly dead and needs a replacement, if the issue is with the wiring it wouldn't have started anyways so the battery is the culpri.

YOU FILL FORKS BY TAKING THE CAPS OFF AT THE TOP BY UN DOING WITH A SPANNER BUT YOU MUST DO THIS WHILE THE FRONT IS OF THE GROUND AND THERE IS NO WEIGHT PUSHING THE FORKS AND YOU NEED THE MANUAL TO SEE HOW MUCH FLUID GOES INTO THE FORKS EXAMPLE IT WILL SAY (13CM FROM TOP) THIS MEANS FROM THE TOP OFF THE FORK YOU MEASURE 13CM FROM TOP TILL THE OIL HITS THE 13CM GOOD LUCK

I have an '04 Fatboy and work in a dealership. Swapping the oil tank is not fun! There is very little clearance for tools and your hands! If you decide to try it yourself, get a service manual. It will make the job a little easier, with the steps you need to take to remove the tank. Or, get a service manual and read how to do it and decide if you want to tackle this job yourself.

Go to Crane's website and click on "motorcycle" and then "tech info". Choose the installation instructions for you Crane unit. Make sure you get the model number off the Crane unit and get the correct installation information as Crane makes many different versions of the HI-4 unit.

If you cannot find it, contact me directly at [email protected] and tell me the model number of your unit (ie. 8-2100). I'll download the proper instruction manual for your and forward it to you directly. This forum limits all file transers to 150kb, much too small for what you need. I'll send you the file as a PDF file.

Good Luck
steve

there is a dead shrt in the taillaight wire before whre you disconnected

Check for loose compensating sprocket. Any strange noises when cranking? Most unlikely but could be loose/sheared half-shaft on crankshaft. Also damaged splines on compensating sprocket. Strip and inspect.

Is this a "nose cone" harley?19 70s to 90s? Check centrifical advance unit,located behind breaker plate where points or ignition module are mounted.when they sit for awhile it can rust and stick,resulting in retarded timing.

1. Standard Maintenance Schedule
   • The oil and filter should be changed at the first 1,000 miles, then 5,000 miles, then every 5,000 miles thereafter. The transmission lubricant should also be changed with the first 1,000 miles, then every 10,000 miles, along with the spark plugs. The following should also be tended to: * At 10,000 miles, the steering head bearings need lubricating. * At 20,000 miles, lubricate the steering head bearings again and adjust them if necessary. Also, change the front fork oil. * At 25,000 miles, lubricate the master cylinder pistons, the front brake lever pin and the brake caliper pins. Replace the brake caliper boots, bushings and the rubber components in the master cylinders and calipers. * At 30,000 miles, replace the rear fork bearings.
   Maintenance for Winter Storage
   • Putting your bike away for the winter entails more than parking it in the garage. You want to store it in prime condition so that it runs properly when you restart it. Storing your machine for the winter entails: * Changing the oil and filter. * Adding fuel stabilizer and running the bike so the fluid flow through the fuel system. * Remove the battery and plug it into a battery tender that will keep it charged through the winter or run your bike for a few minutes every few weeks to keep the battery charged. * Properly inflate the tires and move the bike occasionally to even out the tire pressure. * Clean the bike, polish your chrome and aluminum surfaces, wash the windshield and treat the leather surfaces with a protector. * Store it indoors, or cover the Harley with a motorcycle cover, to protect it from the elements.
   Pre-Ride Check List
   • Inspecting your Harley whenever you ride is a good idea, but it should always be done before you go on a long trip. A pre-ride review should consist of the following check points: * Your fluids. * Your controls, such as the brakes, throttle and steering. * Your tire pressure. * Your breaks. * Your lights, like your signals, headlights and tail lights. * Your mirrors, to make sure they are properly adjusted. * Your battery. * Inspect for leaks related to oil, fuel and hydraulics. * Examine the drive belt and sprockets.
   Tires
   • Make sure the tires are inflated so they wear properly and the bike handles normally. Check that both tires have their valve stems and they are in good condition. Test that your wheel spokes are tight by lightly running a screwdriver tip over them. A loose spoke sounds different than those with the correct tension.
   Battery
   • A battery's terminals and connectors should be kept clean. Test that the clamps and cables are tight since loose connections are usually the culprit when it comes to sudden battery failure. Keep the vent tube clear of any kinks and/or blockages.
   Brakes
   • The rotors to your brakes need to have a smooth surface that's free of debris. Examine where the brake pads come in contact with the rotors to see if there's any discoloration. Check your manual to verify the proper thickness of your brake pads.
   Lights
   • It's a good idea to have a friend look at your lights--front, back, brake and blinkers--while you flip the switches. You can use a wall or window for a reflection if you are testing them alone.

Are you turning the gas off at tank ? If not I would do that first, then if that wasn't it then I would check your air box and see if gas is running out your carb, if so the float/needle is not sealing off, and also check your gas cap for proper venting

Its an Evolution 88 cubic inch sequential fuel injected V twin.

This could be your battery, even if it is charged to 12 volts sometimes they go bad and don't have the cranking AMPS needed to fully engage the starter drive. Try another battery you know is good or if you know how to jump it from another battery try that, if the syarter works you know it is the battery

Your Harley engine has roller and needle bearing in the engine rather than "shell insert" bearings. You don't have to redo the bearings in the engine until it starts knocking. I've seen engines with 75,000 MILES on them and still running fine. Harley always said that the bottom end of the Evolution engine was 100,000 miles. I believe they'll do this although I've never seen one with that many miles on it.

Steve

the drain plug to drain the oil is on the frameit is on the left side,look on the bottom of the frame by the swingarm and the frame you will see a 5/8 bolt with a allen in the middle.never take the ones out of the motor.