Top 20 2004 Harley Davidson XL 883 Sportster Questions & Answers

complete fuel system flush including carbs/injectors

Remove the negative battery terminal or the ground cable to case connection and then remove the primary cover and then remove the two starter mounting bolts and washers with a ball hex driver. THEN remove rear exhaust pipe, remove the positive battery lead and solenoid wire from the starter. Remove the starter and gasket from the right side of the motorcycle. INSTALLATION procedures: Install starter and starter gasket from the right side of the motorcycle, then attach the positive battery cable and solenoid wire to the solenoid and from the left side install the two starter mounting bolts and washers and tighten them to 13-20 ft-lbs which is 18-27 Nm. Then reinstall the primary cover, fill it to the proper level with primary chaincase/transmission fluid/oil and then reconnect the battery ground and re-install the rear exhaust pipe.

they are part numbers not DTC code numbers

CHECKING DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION Check the belt deflection with the transmission in neutral, at the loosest spot in belt, with the motorcycle at room temperature, with the rear wheels either elevated or on the ground without rider or luggage. Disconnect the negative battery cable. THEN check belt deflection in the middle of the belt and then rotate the rear wheels and measure the deflection again at several locations around the belt and then select the loosest measurement point and compare that with the proper specifications and then adjust the belt as required by removing the rear wheels, loosening the four pinch block bolts on each side, loosening the jam nuts on both adjustment screws, checking the axle alignment before adjusting belt tension, verifying that the axle housing is tight against the head of the adjustment screw and then using a scale or dial caliper measuring the distance from the face of the adapter plate to the front of the axle housing on both sides. The distance must be within .062 in. (1.6 mm) on each side. THEN turning the adjustment screws until the measurement is within specification. You will reduce or increase the belt deflection by turning the adjustment screw on each side in or out an equal number of turns and then verifying that firm contact is made with heads of the adjustment screws and checking the belt deflection and repeating these steps until belt deflection is within specifications. Then snugging the jam nut against the rear of each adapter plate and again checking the axle alignment measurement and tightening the jam nuts to 15-25 ft-lbs (20.3-34.0 Nm). THEN removing one pinch block bolt at a time and removing all residual threadlocking compound from the threaded hole in the pinch block and using compressed air, blowing out any debris. If a bolt is to be reused, removing all threadlocking compound using a wire brush or awire wheel, applying Loctite Medium Strength Threadlocker 243 (blue) to the threaded area, installing the bolt with a flat washer and tightening it until snug. THEN tightening all pinch block bolts in a crosswise pattern to 41-45 ft-lbs (55.6-61.0 Nm), rechecking belt deflection, rotating the rear tires a few rotations by hand and verifying that the belt does not contact either the battery tray or frame and if either is the case, adjusting the rear axle lateral alignment. THEN installing the rear wheels and tightening the lug nuts in a crosswise pattern to 90-100 ft-lbs (122.0-135.6) and any time a rear wheel is removed and installed, the lug nut torque must be checked within 500-1000 mi (805-1610 km). THEN re-connecting the battery negative (-) cable and tightening the screw to 60-70 in-lbs (6.8-7.9 Nm). ALSO always, after re-installing the seat, pulling upward on it to be sure it is properly and securely locked in position

For 2000-2004 Sportsters, there are only 7 different codes. d01 - Speed sensor power output shorted low d02 - Speed sensor power output shorted high or open d05 - Speed sensor return shorted high d06 - Speed sensor return shorted low d08 - Speedometer power over voltage d09 - Speed output shorted high d10 - Speed output shorted low or open I don't see your code here.

Start with a suitable container placed under the rear caliper brake line banjo fitting to catch any brake fluid that may leak out. NEVER reuse brake fluid. Use only Dot 5 Brake Fluid in a 2006 XLH motorcycle. NEXT remove the banjo bolt and both washers to detach the rear brake line from the brake caliper and throw away the washers, remove the pad pin plug, unscrew and remove the brake pad pin, remove the brake pads, unscrew and remove the caliper bolt pin, slide the brake caliper on the rear bolt pin away from the brake disc as far as possible. THEN with an open end wrench unscrew the mounting bracket bolt pin from the caliper mounting bracket and lift the brake brake caliper straight up and away from the brake disc and the caliper bracket. LUBRICATING THE REAR CALIPER BOLT PINS AND BOOTS FIRST apply about 0.4 g of G40M BRAKE GREASE inside the caliper bushing boot and the caliper pin boot and inside the boot lip to prevent sticking between the boots and the bolt pins and insert the mounting bracket bolt pin into the caliper bushing boot. INSTALLATION Before installing the caliper ensure that the retainer bracket is properly installed on the mounting bracket, then apply a small amount of LOCTITE 272 THREADLOCKER to the threads of the mounting bracket bolt pin, place the rear caliper assembly onto the mounting bracket and using an open end wrench thread the mounting bracket bolt pin into the caliper mounting bracket and tighten it to 87-130 in-lbs (9.8-14.7 Nm). THEN apply a small amount of LOCTITE 272 THREADLOCKER to the threads of the caliper bolt pin, slide the caliper bolt pin through the front mounting hole in the caliper, carefully insert the bolt pin shaft into the caliper pin boot in the mounting bracket and screw the bolt pin into caliper and tighten it to 15-18 ft-lbs (20.4-24.6 Nm). NOTE that the brake caliper housing has a positive stop for banjo fitting and so when tightening the banjo bolt into the brake caliper you will need to rotate the banjo fitting clockwise until it contacts the positive stop. THEN position a new washer onto each side of the hydraulic brake line banjo fitting, insert the banjo bolt through the washers and fitting into the caliper housing and tighten it to 20-25 ft-lbs (27.1-33.9 Nm). THEN insert the brake pads into the caliper with the friction material on the pad towards the brake disc and with the curved portion of the pad fitting into the recessed area of the caliper and the brake pad front mounting tab fitting into its slot in the caliper mounting bracket. THEN press the brake pads tightly up and against the brake pad spring and install the brake pad pin but if the pin does not easily fit in ensure that you are suing the correct brake pads and not two identical pads, that the brake pad spring is oriented correctly, that the brake pad front mounting tabs are properly seated in the slots in the mounting bracket and that the brake pads are correctly pushed tight up against the brake pad spring BEFORE the brake pad pin is installed. AND THEN tighten the brake pad pin to 131-173 in-lbs (14.8-19.6 Nm). THEN install the brake pad pin plug and tighten it to 18-25 in-lbs (2.0-2.9 Nm). THEN with the rear brake master cylinder reservoir in a level position verify the brake fluid level in the reservoir. If necessary and with the bike upright and not resting on its jiffy stand remove the rear brake master cylinder reservoir cap and add sufficient new D.O.T. 5 BRAKE FLUID to the reservoir to cause the fluid to reach the upper fluid level mark, but do not exceed this mark. THEN verify the proper operation of the master cylinder relief port because a plugged or otherwise blocked relief port could cause the brakes to drag or stick on. Do this by pressing against the rear brake caliper to push the caliper piston back into its bore and push brake fluid back through the master cylinder and into the reservoir. THEN pump the brake pedal until the caliper piston pushes the brake pads out against the brake disc and firm pressure is returned to the brake system.THEN turn ignition switch ON and pump the brake pedal to verify correct operation of the brake lamp and test ride the motorcycle at low speed to safely test the brake system. If the brakes feel at all soft or spongy, bleed the system until you get a firm, hard pedal and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new pads to become conditioned to the brake disc. Replace brake pads at any time the brake pad friction material on either the front or rear caliper is worn to 0.04 in. (1.02 mm) or less above the backing plate and always replace both pads in a caliper as a set. The minimum brake disc thickness is stamped on the side of the disc and it must be replaced if and when it is badly scored or worn past the minimum thickness. Maximum brake disc lateral runout and warpage is 0.008 in. (0.2 mm) when measured near the outside diameter.

P0262 = FRONT INJECTOR HIGH Possible causes - Dirty Fuel Injector 1 - Faulty Fuel Injector 1 - Plugged Fuel Injector 1 - Fuel injector 1 harness is open or shorted - Fuel injector 1 circuit poor electrical connection Tech notes Clogged or partially clogged fuel injector can cause this code. Start by performing an injector flush before replacing the injector. Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Engine Misfire - Engine Run Rough - Low MPG P0262 Description Code P0262 is triggered when the Engine Control Module (ECM) detects a low voltage in the Fuel Injector 1 Circuit. During normal conditions theECMturns the Fuel Injectors ON and OFF in the Fuel Injection System.

Remove the rear wheel and then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly and then remove the primary chaincase housing. Support the bike under the rear fork and engine and then remove the pivot shaft and the spacer THEN slip the belt off the transmission sprocket and then install a new drive belt over the transmission sprocket and proceed to reinstall the pivot shaft and spacer after which you can remove the support holding the engine and rear fork and install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain assembly and the primary chaincase cover and fill the primary chaincase with lubricant up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring. Install the rear wheel and adjust the belt to the proper deflection dimension and confirm tat the rear wheel is properly aligned side to side.

Not likley

NOPE

Figure the only things that could go wrong with it are: 1) blown fuse (if it has a seperate fuse) 2) bulb burned out 3) neutral switch assembly no good 4) wire burned/broken/disconnected. IF it is in fact a bad neutral switch, here's a replacement: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1974-yamaha-dt175a-electrical/o/m7079sch221473 Item #22

no, it will help aerodynamics of motorcycle

You should be able to just pull or gently nudge them up and off

It may be the little switch down by the shifter.When neutral is selected this switch closes and the light goes on.There should be two wires down by the gear box.If they have a quick connect pull them and touch them together(simulating a closed switch) If the neutral light comes on you know the switch is bad.good luck

bulb or sencer need replacing ! check wire also !

Underneath the carburetor, i.e. on the bottom of the carb

I'm thinkin' your coil is bad because cyl aren't firing evenly

Sounds like your plugs are bad

drain tank, pop off bowl from carb & clean out, change plugs, recharge battery & should be good to go

I am not understanding how it starts with the battery out of the holder. It will keep running without the battery connected if the charging system is providing sufficient voltage and current for the ignition system, yes, because it is not a field excited alternator but a permanent magnet type. If you explain what you mean as above I may be able to advise you further.