Hi, Henry before you can diagnose any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" your battery must be fully charged to 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. Your starter motor stays engaged because the solenoid positive plunger contact plate/disc has spot welded itself to the negative contact shoes usually caused by low battery voltage, faulty starter relay, or button. Your starter motor has two main systems the motor itself and the starter solenoid which transfers high amperage to the motor enabling it to turn over your engine, your issue only involves the starter solenoid and may be repaired without removing the starter in most cases and depending on the model of your Harley may require removing the rear exhaust pipe if it's in the way. The solenoid is the part that has a large copper stud protruding from it that the positive battery cable connects to. Start by disconnecting the battery negative cable and wrapping the cable terminal with any kind of tape so it will not accidentally touch metal and make all electrical circuits hot again, remove the starter solenoid cap, secured with 3 screws 1989 and later or 2 screws 1988 and earlier, with a screwdriver break away the contact plate from the shoes and clean/dress all electrical arc residue. In order to diagnose the starter circuit, you must start with a fully charged battery, 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test if necessary. The battery cables and terminals must be clean and tight. The "NEGATIVE" cable is famous for corroding and or breaking inside the harness, check the terminals at both ends. Check your starter relay with a test light for continuity, it could be faulty due to corrosion and sticking in a closed configuration, another claim to fame. Finally, there is the starter solenoid, low battery voltage or faulty battery connections will cause extremely high amperage at the plate and contact shoes and rob the hold in coils of much-needed voltage. In extreme cases, the solenoid plunger plate will literally spot weld itself to the contact shoes, keeping the circuit closed and thus permanent engagement. Another scenario is unacceptable voltage drop to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter button, and finally to the solenoid. Remove the green wire from the starter solenoid and hook up the positive lead of your voltmeter to the green wire connector and ground the negative lead. Turn on the ignition switch and depress starter button, the voltage reading should be no more than 1/2 volt less than the battery voltage. If it is more than 1/2 volt you need to backtrack that part of the circuit with your voltmeter until you find the voltage robbing offender. Next, remove the solenoid plunger, dress the plate and the contact shoes of arching residue and make sure the contact shoes are tight and secure. If you have done all of the above, replace the green starter button wire, hook up your voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage drop when you start the engine, anything below 9 volts could indicate a faulty battery and a proper load test should be performed. Inside Look at Harley Primary Starter Operation Solenoid Starter Clutch... Harley Davidson 2003 Dyna Service Manual http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc http://mybikemanuals.com/harley-davidson/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-owners-manuals Instant Repair Help over the Phone To speak to me personally $6
Hi, Tim if you have any light that stays on when the ignition switch is turned off you have a short and usually not too hard to find. You are going to need a wiring diagram which you can find in the back of your service manual and a test light. The first place to look is where you were messing around installing an electrical component or exploratory surgery in the endless wire jungle just before this issue happened. This type of electrical phenomenon is almost always caused by the last person that worked on the bike, not something that just happens for no apparent reason. OK let's get started, with the ignition switch in the "OFF" position and your test light clipped to a good ground, start probing the power wire from the light that refuses to go dark. Your test light will illuminate as you probe your way towards the ignition switch when it fails to illuminate you have found the short.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Turn singnal stays solid lit Harley Davidson DYNA Models Workshop Service Repair Manual 1999 2005 $7 very cheap http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc http://www.harley-davidson.com/content/h-d/en_US/home/owners/maintain-your-bike/owners-manual.html Instant Tech Relief To speak with me personally absolutely "FREE"
Hi Deloway, the number one offender in this type of situation is faulty wire connectors. Get out your test light and check for continuity at all connectors, from the tachometer all the way back to the istrument fuse if necessary. Look for "CORRODED" loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below, and for specific information or questions, please feel free to contact me at email@example.com. Good luck and have nice day. Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
On the carb the cable closest to the right side of the bike is the throttle cable and the one closest to the left side is the idle cable. Right about the middle between the two is the idle adjustment screw. It faces out towards the air filter end of the carb . The engine should be at operating temperature with the enrichener off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the screw clockwise to increases idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease idle speed. EFI idle speed is computer controlled.
Yes, you need to check your charging system. First remove the battery and fully charge it (overnight) then refit, and start the bike. With the engine running at about twice the idle speed check the voltage at the battery. It should be approx 14 volts DC. If it is lower than 12.5 you should look first at the voltage regulator and rectifier. The symptoms you describe lead me to believe your charging system is the culprit. It may also be be your alternator, but check the regulator and rectifier first (cheaper)
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
Hi Anonymous, you could have a faulty sending unit or guage, there could be a problem with your wiring. On models with the fuel gauge posing as a left hand fuel cap the gauge is a press fit do not try to unscrew it, simply ample force lift up in a rocking motion to remove gauge. Disconnect wires to the gauge and with a set of positive and negative jumpers from the battery connect the positive jumper and flash the negative, gauge should peg full, if not replace gauge. With a test light check for power to the sending unit, then remove the sending unit and manually operate the float arm slowly with the correct wiring hooked up to the fuel gauge and sending unit and the ignition on, the gauge should respond accordingly if not replace the float arm assembly. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck.
Hi Anonymous, you could have a faulty sending unit or guage, there could be a problem with your wiring. On models with the fuel gauge posing as a left hand fuel cap the gauge is a press fit do not try to unscrew it, simply ample force lift up in a rocking motion to remove gauge. Disconnect wires to the gauge and with a set of positive and negative jumpers from the battery connect the positive jumper and flash the negative, gauge should peg full, if not replace gauge. With a test light check for power to the sending unit, then remove the sending unit and manually operate the float arm slowly with the correct wiring hooked up to the fuel gauge and sending unit and the ignition on, the gauge should respond accordingly if not replace the float arm assembly. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck. Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
Hi Semper_fi4ev, you need to get out your test light and find the short and start by making sure the battery has 12 volts or more and clean tight connections especially the ground cable at both ends. If your issues involves lights always check the bulbs for broken filiments and fuses first. Then start at the socket and work your way towards the handlebar switches checking each wiring harness connector for corroded, broken or loose pins and remember dielectric grease is your friend. Check the switches for continuity and work your way towards the ignition switch and check it for continuity. Keep working your way to the fuses and circuit breaker and finally the battery. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck. Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics