Top 20 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic Questions & Answers

Shown here. Power is the orange. Ground is black. Signal is Yellow. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/687505-fuel-gauge-wiring-confusing-2.html https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+Harley+Davidson+Ultra+Classic+Wiring+diagram+for+the+fuel+gauge ..

Question edited for clarity and Maker name. Question moved to Make / Model category. That means it is a transient fault. The ECM finds an issue and then on rechecking, it goes away so the light goes off. You will either have to catch the code when it happens or wait for the fault so show up all the time. A dealer may have a scan tool that can record the fault when it happens like a pro grade scan tool computer for a car can.

get a good tuner and that should fix the problem. Sounds like running to lean.

Does it have spark?

Hi Donald: First basic questions - Tire pressure correct? - Tire condition? - When does this happen? Cornering? - shock setup? - Load? - Speed? Any info you can give will help to find the problem. If you reply as a comment to this post I'll receive it. Cheers.

Morris is correct. 1/4 12 pt socket to remove the brake pad pins..

I wonder if your plugs or coil are bad or maybe it's out of time.

On an 03 bagger it will be under the seat. You'll have to remove it. Under the seat is the battery you should see a little silver clip towards the back ledge of the battery tray. That's the turn signal module. Remove the clip and pull the unit up amd out.

If it's the primary case you want to fill you undo the small oval plate on the left side of the engine and fill it until it's level with the bottom of the plate hole.

check oil and coolant levels its over heating and designed to shut off to save engine

While pushing down on the canopy, align holes in canopy with those in fuel tank. Hand start ten new T20 TORX screws in perimeter of canopy. Tighten screws to 18-24 in-lbs (2.0-2.7 Nm) using the pattern shown in the figure below.

Thermal safety cutout is shutting down ignition, if you don't feel the engine is that hot replace thermal cutout and relay

1. Drain fuel tank as follows: Obtain a short section of hose with a 5/16 inch (7.9 mm) I.D. Insert bolt in one end of hose and install hose clamp to ensure that end is securely plugged. Using a side cutters, cut clamp from one end of crossover hose beneath fuel tank. Quickly replace crossover hose on fuel tank fitting with open end of short hose while directing flow of gasoline from free end of crossover hose into suitable container. 2. Remove seat. 3. Purge the fuel supply line of high pressure gas. Proceed as follows: a. Remove the 15 amp fuel pump fuse. b. Start the engine and allow the vehicle to run. c. When the engine stalls, operate starter for 3 seconds to remove remaining fuel from fuel lines. 4. Unthread bolt and remove battery negative cable (black) from battery negative (-) terminal. 5. Carefully cut anchored cable strap securing main harness bundles, console pod conduit, fuel level sender/fuel pump conduit, and fuel vapor vent tube to left side of frame backbone. 6. Open fuel door on console. Remove two Allen head screws inboard of rubber bumpers. These screws secure console to clip nuts on the canopy bracket. 7. Remove Allen head screw to detach flange at rear of console from clip nut on fuel tank weldment. 8. Lay a clean shop towel on forward part of rear fender. 9. Remove filler cap from neck of fuel tank. Remove console and lay upside down on shop towel. Reinstall filler cap. 10. At top of canopy, depress button on socket side of 3- place Mini-Deutsch connector to release fuel tank harness. 11. Gently pry fuel vapor vent tube from fitting on filler neck of fuel tank. Exercise caution to avoid pulling fitting from filler neck. 12. Locate quick-connect fitting on left side of fuel tank. Pull up on chrome sleeve and pull down on fuel supply line fitting to disconnect. 13. Remove two fuel tank front mounting bolts (with flat washers) from left and right side of frame. Remove bolt (with flat washer) to free rear of fuel tank from frame backbone. 14. Remove fuel tank from vehicle.

Popping sound at the exhaust is usually due to a very lean setting which causes unburnt fuel to burn late in the exhaust pipe and happens when you are going at a high rpm with a closed throttle making it even leaner. My bike had the same problem and most Harleys are factory tuned lean which is very bad as the engine runs hot. After putting free flow Rhinehart pipes like i did, it became worst so i installed the Vance & Hines fuelpak and now my bike runs so silent and cooler. A great difference from before.

Yes, post how I can get them

Schematics for Harleys are very hard to get, but the can be found keep looking or just buy a manual for the bike or bikes you want to work on

take it to Dealer..not a fix it your self...

Transmission fluid (Ounces, approximate) FLHT/C/U FLHR/C FLTR 20-24 20-24 20-24

To remove a 2012 TOURING rear wheel FIRST remove the saddlebags, then raise the wheel with a suitable lifting device and rotate the wheel and inspect the wheel bearings. THEN remove left side muffler, on models equipped with low profile shock absorbers (FLHX, FLTRX), remove the left side lower saddlebag support rail and if ABS equipped remove the cable strap to releasethe rear wheel speed sensor cable from the rear brake hose and at no time ever left any magnetic force field exist or be close to the speed sensor or it will be ruined, remove the rear brake caliper but do not disconnect the brake hose, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard or otherwise appropriately support it, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, hold the weld nut on the left side of the axle and loosen the cone nut on the right side of the axle using an AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIM's or H-D (HD- 47925), remove the cone nut and the adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the left side of the axlecounterclockwise until the wheel is loose, remove the axle from the left side of the motorcycle, catch all of the external spacer(s), caliper bracket, and rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) as the axle is removed, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear fork, move wheel forward enough so that you can and slip the drive belt off of the compensator sprocket, if needed remove the brake disc from hub and be careful that the drive sprocket does not fall off and get damaged as you remove the wheel from the bike, mark the wheel and the disc for re-installation in the same orientation. To install a 2012 TOURING rear wheel you will need FASTENER TORQUE VALUEs. The brake disc (rear) screws are 30-45 ft-lbs 41-61 Nm; (Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws because re-using these can result in torque loss and always reinstall a brake disc in its original orientation); the rear axle cone nut (preliminary - 15-20 ft-lbs 20-27 Nm) (Final 95 to 105 ft lbs 128.8-142.4 Nm ) ; Brake caliper (rear)mounting fasteners 43-48 ft-lbs 58.3-65.1 Nm. If the brake disc was removed from the wheel ALWAYS reinstall it in the same orientation with the wheel as when it was removed and ALWAYS use NEW attaching screws and tighten them in a crosswise pattern to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), verify that the sprocket is square to and fully seated in the bowl area of the wheel, place the wheel into the rear fork with the drive sprocket installed, install the belt over the drive sprocket and then slide the wheel back to take up the slack, seat the brake caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear fork, apply a light coat of wheel bearing type grease (H-D suggest silver anti-seize compound but this technician finds almost all seized, corroded axles were lubricated thus so do as you feel best) to the axle to the bearing bores and to the bore of the spacer sleeve, slide the axle through the left side of rear fork, the thin external spacer, the sprocket and into the wheel hub out the other side of the wheel hub and through the rear wheel speed sensor if ABS equipped and if ABS equipped ensure that the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the rear wheel speed sensor are on the outboard side or through the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the brake caliper bracket, and the right side of the rear fork, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and with the adjuster cam section forward, install the adjuster cam on the right end of the axle, apply a light coat of SILVER GRADE ANTI-SEIZE (H-D Part No. 98960-97) to the inboard side of the cone nut but NOT the threads, install the cone nut on axle finger tight only, if ABS equipped route the speed sensor cable forward and outboard of the brake caliper bracket, continue forward following the top of the rear fork, rotate the speed sensor in a counterclockwise direction until the index pin makes contact with the brake caliper bracket, tighten the cone nut to a preliminary torque of 15-20 ft lbs (20-27 Nm), install the brake caliper and tighten its screws to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), secure the rear wheel speed sensor cable to the brake hose with the conduit clip located approximately 1.25 in. (31.8mm) in front of the brake hose crimp, adjust the drive belt using a belt tension gauge, final tighten the cone nut to 95 to 105 ft lbs 128.8-142.4 Nm, install a new E-clip with the flat side out in groove on the right side of the axle, on models equipped with low profile shock absorbers, install the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install the left side muffler and tighten its fasteners to 96-144 in-lbs 10.9-16.3 Nm,depress the rear brake pedal a number of times to set the brake pads properly against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and THEN road test the vehicle.

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