20 Most Recent 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The speedometer not working and the check engine light on are probably cause by the same thing, the speed sensor is bad. The clunking in the tranny could be what cause the speed sensor to go bad.

Check the master cylinder to see if the reservior is full. If not, fill with the proper type brake fluid. Then, bleed the master cylinder by loosening the banjo bolt at the end of the master cylinder, pull the lever and hold it, tighten the banjo bolt. Do this until all air is out of the master cylinder. If you still have the free play, a rebuild is required.

If your 2003 model is like the earllier models (I have rebuilt a late model like yours), take the large pivot pin out and the lever will come off. On some master cylinders, there is a snap ring that holds the internals in the master cylinder, on others, there aren't, but you must get the old internals out. Inspect the bore and hone if necessary to smooth the bore. If the bore is badly pitted, replace the assembly. Install new internals and put the lever back on. Fill with the proper brake fluid. Bleed the system of air. Warning, the brake fluid may ruin your paint if it gets on it.

Good Luck,
Steve

Without getting too specific, there is/was a recall on this exact problem. The bike would just cut off... completely shut down, no power even if you were flying down the highway at 70 mph. Check recall list with HD for more info.

No, the battery should charge at 14.5 to 15.0 volts. No problem. The 12.5 to 13.5 is not high enough to keep your battery charged especially if you do a lot of night time riding. You're fine.

Good Luck
Steve

The only to find out for sure is to pull the cover off. As for a screw bouncing off the rocker cover, it could be. There are some 1/4" bolts in the lower plate. If one of these bolts broke or the threads stripped out, the bolt could be bouncing in the cover. At any rate, we could sit here and guess all night long. The only way to find out what it is, is to pull the cover. Let me know if you need any advice.

Good Luck
Steve

It could be most anything including the new battery. Odds are that it's not the battery but never rule that out. I've bought a lot of bad batteries before.

But, let's do it this way. Disconnect all the wires off both terminals of the battery and reconnect only the large cable that goes to your starter on the positive side. Now, find the wire that runs from your voltage regulator back towards your battery. On some bikes this wire connects directly to the battery and on others it connects to the starter terminal where the battery cable connects. Disconnect this wire and reconnect any wires that were on the connector with it. What you're doing is isolating the voltage regulator. Now, touch the negative battery post with the negative cable. Watch for a spark. If you see a spark, something else is draining your battery. Now there are certain things that run all the time on your bike such as the ECM needs power all the time, the clock, and maybe a few other things. But if there's a rather large spark, it's probably something else. Also, if it's a large spark with the regulator disconnected, it's probably not the regulator.

Now, remove all the fuses from the fuse box. Remember what fuse goes where. Do the spark test again and notice the size of the spark. Start adding one fuse at the time and doing the test. When you put a fuse in that dramatically increases the size of the spark, your current load is more than likely on that circuit. You'll need a schematic to find out what is on that circuit.

If you don't like the "spark test" and want a more professional way of doing it, you'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) that will measure at least ten amps. Wire the meter in series with the negative post of the battery and negative battery cable. If the meter reads a negative number, reverse the lead connections.

Good luck
Steve

If you want pictures, I'm afraid that you'll have to purchase a manual somewhere. This forum will only allow me to send a picture of 150Kb size. Replacing the throttle grips is not difficult.

First, loosen the locknuts on the throttle and idle cables at the twist grip. Adjust the adjuster barrel inwards all the way getting as much slack as possible. Now, loosen the bolts holding the front master cylinder onto the handlebars and slide it towards the center of the bars just a bit. Remove the two bolts that hold the right handlebar switch housing together. Carefully lift the top portion of the switch housing and move it towards the front of the bike exposing the throttle twist grip. Work each of the cables out of the nylon wheel of the twist grip. Do not loose the barrels that go on the ends of each cable. Once you have the cables loose from the wheel, lower the lower switch housing and remove the right grip from the handlebar.

Now, take the new grip and apply a coating of white lithium grease to the wheel part and the inside of the throttle sleeve in the grip. Put a coating of grease on the handlebar end where the sleeve rides as well. Slide the throttle sleeve and grip onto the handlebars. Bring the lower switch half up and reconnect the cables to the throttle wheel. Carefully reposition the top half to the switch housing and make sure that no wires are being pinched. Install the two bolts but don't tighten. Slide the throttle grip all the way up on the handlebars and then back off about a 1/4" or so. Tighten the two bolts. Now, adjust the two cables to where they each have just a bit of slack. Turn the throttle grip to the wide open position and release it. The throttle should snap shut. If not, work with it until you get it to where it does. Once operating properly, reposition the front brake master cylinder.

Make sure your throttle operates properly. An improperly operating throttle control can cause lose of control of the bike resulting in serious injury or death.

Good Luck
Steve

The starter motor is not that difficult to change. First disconnect the batter. Then drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the small bolt holding the starter "jackshaft" in. When you remove the jackshaft, the coupling my come with it. Notice which direction it came out and mark it. One is tapered and the other isn't but more importantly, there's a snap ring inside of it and if you get backwards, stuff don't fit back together correctly.

On the other side of the bike, remove the exhaust system and anything else that is in the way of removing the starter. Take the large cable off of the starter and the two large socket head bolts that hold the starter motor in.

Nothing real tricky about this job.

Good Luck
Steve

Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.

Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.

Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.

Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.

Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.

Good Luck
Steve

i think you have a battery fault inside the battery there are lots of plates all joined up if there is a broken joint on the battery turminal post inside your bikes battery all the power just disappears just like that,,,but a slight bump may remake the joint and all is powerd back on again,,,if you could get hold of another battery just to try it out??? or take out your battery and hook up a lamp to it then give the battery posts a wiggel and the battery a thumping if the lamp gos out you just found the problem

You'll need to find someone with a "black book". The "average retail value" of the bike you're looking for will be in there. I do not have that information available to me. The best place to get that information is at a bank that finances motorcycles.

Good Luck
steve

Hi,

On most of the models i have seen, it would be one on left hand side and other on right hand side.

Good Luck!!

Thanks!!

i read somewhere about the front brake handle being a little loose and disengaging the cruise

Sounds like you have a short. The headlight and the tail light are on the same fuse as well as a few other lights. I'd look closely right where the main harness goes from the frame to the front end. There is a lot of flexing and movement in the wiring harness in that area. Look for wires that could have been rubbed by the fairing.

Good Luck
steve

With a fully charged battery in the bike, connect a Digital Volt Ohm Meter to the battery, red lead to positive, black lead to negative. Set the meter's range to DC Volts, 20 volts or greater range. Start the bike. The meter should show a rapid build up to between 14.5 and 14.8 volts. If not, check the output of the alternator.

Look down near the oil filter and find the connector on the engine case where your voltage regulator plugs in. Unplug the connector and inspect both ends of it for broken or damaged connectors or wiring inside the plugs. Look down into the connector in the case and you should see two metal connections. This is what we're going to test next.

Put your DVOM meter into AC volts, 50 volts or better range. Make certain your meter is in AC volts as the voltage we'll be testing here is alternating current voltage. Start the bike up and bring it to a fast idle. Put one lead of the meter on each pin in the engine side connector. Since it's AC voltage, it makes no difference which lead goes to which pin. You should be reading at least 30 volts. If so, your regulator is probably bad. If not, your stator is the culprit.

Good Luck
Steve

Wow, I can't believe they gave up....they are the experts, they should just order the entire assembly strip out the old and add in the new, aparently they are not finding an electiical malfunction in the system and that is understandable as they are mechanicaltechnicians and not electronics techs, we would come up against this sort of situation from time to time in our dealership as we couldn't bench test the computer in a complete way, so we would send it all back to the factory and we would get a replacement assembly for it, this however was not related to a cruise control problem but rather a no start condition on early GM's.I have before me a phone # and web page for a company that makes sells and has all the installation directions easy to read and easy to follow for Harley cruise replacements.
I feel your pain man, this is one condition that no one is going to come up with the solution over the wires, and as you can see even hands on as a defeat!!
Well here goes and i hope these folks can help your situation out.
http://www.cruisemount.com/installation.html is the web page and here is the phone#: 1-620-279-4253.
As we speak I have put a call through to them in regards to your situation please provide me with all the pertinent information on this bike and what they are saying is or isn't happening when the cruise is pushed on.
Thanks

check wiring loom to alternator,bat connections or lack of volts from alternator

if the bug can get in ,must be a hole underneath,the chrome rim can be eased off,

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all bolts need to be heated very hot with a map gas torch or hotter get all the part around the bolt hot too. hit your wrench with a hammer ( JAR THE BOLTS LOOSE) The pipes mAY HAVE to be loosened at the engine first to get them to move around enough the heat and beat them loose. A good welder can just weld the bracket and grind it with it installed as long as it in a place that doesnt show and the place can be covered or painted to look OK. The welded bracket will be better than a new one and not removeing the bolts will make the bike stay together longer without any problems.