20 Most Recent 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Undo the seat fastener and kift the seat at the rear and pull it to the rear Be very careful and sure that you reinstall it properly and that it is secure.

Undo seat retaining fastener and lift rear of seat and pull it backward Be careful in putting it back on that it is on properly and is secure.

So you must have a short somewhere between the switch and the relay or in the relay. A voltage drop test will quickly identify where. SoSO

Remove the left side saddlebag and then gently pull the side cover from the frame down tubes (no tools

needed) and then pull the fuse blocks from the tabs on the mounting panel. The tabs on the panel fit into slots on each side of the fuse block cover. To remove the cover, raise the latches slightly to disengage the tabs on the fuse blocks. Then remove the starter relay from the rear fuse block

FLTR, FLHT/C/U

1. Remove the seat and then find the starter relay which is installed in a cavity of the frame cross-member at the rear of the battery box. And then place a finger on the rubber molding to hold it in position and needle nose pliers, carefully pull on the tab to release the starter relay. Since the position of the relays could be reversed, identify the starter relay by noting the heavy green wire to it. The harness connector can be removed from the bottom of the relay.

Schematics for Harleys are very hard to get, but the can be found keep looking or just buy a manual for the bike or bikes you want to work on

Popping sound at the exhaust is usually due to a very lean setting which causes unburnt fuel to burn late in the exhaust pipe and happens when you are going at a high rpm with a closed throttle making it even leaner. My bike had the same problem and most Harleys are factory tuned lean which is very bad as the engine runs hot. After putting free flow Rhinehart pipes like i did, it became worst so i installed the Vance & Hines fuelpak and now my bike runs so silent and cooler. A great difference from before.

While pushing down on the canopy, align holes in canopy with those in fuel tank. Hand start ten new T20 TORX screws in perimeter of canopy. Tighten screws to 18-24 in-lbs (2.0-2.7 Nm) using the pattern shown in the figure below.

1. Drain fuel tank as follows: Obtain a short section of hose with a 5/16 inch (7.9 mm) I.D. Insert bolt in one end of hose and install hose clamp to ensure that end is securely plugged. Using a side cutters, cut clamp from one end of crossover hose beneath fuel tank. Quickly replace crossover hose on fuel tank fitting with open end of short hose while directing flow of gasoline from free end of crossover hose into suitable container. 2. Remove seat. 3. Purge the fuel supply line of high pressure gas. Proceed as follows: a. Remove the 15 amp fuel pump fuse. b. Start the engine and allow the vehicle to run. c. When the engine stalls, operate starter for 3 seconds to remove remaining fuel from fuel lines. 4. Unthread bolt and remove battery negative cable (black) from battery negative (-) terminal. 5. Carefully cut anchored cable strap securing main harness bundles, console pod conduit, fuel level sender/fuel pump conduit, and fuel vapor vent tube to left side of frame backbone. 6. Open fuel door on console. Remove two Allen head screws inboard of rubber bumpers. These screws secure console to clip nuts on the canopy bracket. 7. Remove Allen head screw to detach flange at rear of console from clip nut on fuel tank weldment. 8. Lay a clean shop towel on forward part of rear fender. 9. Remove filler cap from neck of fuel tank. Remove console and lay upside down on shop towel. Reinstall filler cap. 10. At top of canopy, depress button on socket side of 3- place Mini-Deutsch connector to release fuel tank harness. 11. Gently pry fuel vapor vent tube from fitting on filler neck of fuel tank. Exercise caution to avoid pulling fitting from filler neck. 12. Locate quick-connect fitting on left side of fuel tank. Pull up on chrome sleeve and pull down on fuel supply line fitting to disconnect. 13. Remove two fuel tank front mounting bolts (with flat washers) from left and right side of frame. Remove bolt (with flat washer) to free rear of fuel tank from frame backbone. 14. Remove fuel tank from vehicle.

first spray it all clean with brake parts cleaner, careful not to spray on starter. then start it up go around the block and verify where the leak is, if its the top cover get a gasket replace easy fix five bolts. now if your leak is coming from the nipple or short hose thats on the left side of top cover thats a vent and this indicates the tranny is over filled with fluid.

take it to Dealer..not a fix it your self...

Probably too much oil. Check the level per the manual.

It's a Harley, it's supposed to leak somewhere.

If the lines have Harley clamps on them, you will need to carefully cut them off with a set of side cutters. Twist the line back and forth while pulling on it. You will need a special tool to clamp the lines if you replace the old clamps with new ones from Harley.

First off, determine if it's transmission fluid, or primary chain case fluid. I had the seal on the transmission main shaft go on me once (the seal under the transmission rear drive pulley, behind the inner primary cover). This can be changed with the transmission still in the bike, but the entire primary needs to come apart, and the transmission sprocket/pulley removed to access it. If it's primary fluid, it's probably the seal on the inner primary case that the transmission shaft runs through and that the clutch assembly bolts to. Again, the entire primary needs to be torn down to access this. Either way, the cost of the part isn't bad, but the labor is the killer, as it's a 6-10 hour job, if I remember the book's quote.

check coils and high tension wires, if spark plugs are older than 6 months change them first and see what happens.

Check the belt adjustment . An easy make it yourself tool is to use a wire coat hanger and bend it to the shape of a L. put a piece of tape or use a rubber band wrapped around the long end so you can slide it up and down. Use the pivot shaft ( center of where the swing arm attaches to the frame ) as your center point and make sure the rear axle has the same adjustment on both sides. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

replace your main circuit breaker with the new updated 50 amp one. If you look under the seat by the battery you can usually see the posts of the breaker. If they are the long posts then it has never been updated. That was a common problem back then. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

You need to read the trouble codes from the ECU. Without these could be anything. If no codes then more than likely switch is faulty.

Are you sure that it is the system lowering the volume, and not just that the volume has reached max before you get there and that windnoise is making it seem quieter at those speeds?

Not sure on a TwinCam, but the Evos were 60 ft/lbs, LEFT HAND THREAD!Without a locking tool, you could try putting transmission in high gear, and have someone hold rear brakes while you tighten.

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