Top 20 2002 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider Questions & Answers

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You need to check your front wheel bearing you will get a wobble from a collapsed wheel bearing,I've had it happen to me on my fireblade and since then I replace my bearings every spring when I'm about to get back on the road after winter,just see if your front wheel moves side to side even if there is slight play.
Hope this helps.
Adrian.

Here you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fAFrjhQnnU

To check the STATOR. Turn ignition key switch OFF, then disconnect the voltage regulator connector from alternator stator wiring. THEN connect an ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale with one lead into either of the stator sockets and the other lead to a good ground. And test for continuity - a good stator will show no continuity (0 ohms) across either stator socket - any other reading indicates a grounded stator which must be replaced. THEN remove the ground lead and insert lead it into the other stator socket - the resistance (with ohmmeter still set on the RX1 scale) should be 0.1-0.2 ohms - if the resistance is lower a stator short is indicated. Which means that the stator is damaged and must be replaced. - if the resistance is higher (OL on meter), an open is indicated and again, the stator is damaged and must be replaced. You should check socket 1 to 2 then 1 to 3 then 2 to 3. ( If you have a two wire stator you would check 1 to 2)

Before testing short out the ohmmeter leads against each other and if they do not produce a reading of 0 ohms subtract the reading you do get from any readings you get doing the stator checks in order to get accurate stator circuit readings, otherwise you may have out of range reading due to the internal and/or lead resistance of the ohmmeter.

Get a multimeter (you can get one from under $10). Set the scale for D.C. Voltage, and connect it to the two battery terminals, observing polarity! Start bike and read meter. Should be around 13-14 volts. It should rise slightly when you rev the engine. If you don't get these readings, shut off engine, and disconnect wiring from alternator to regulator. Set meter's scale to A.C. Voltage, and connect to alternator leads (polarity doesn't matter on A.C. Voltage). Start engine and read meter. Output depends on how high your alternator is rated. I've seen it as low as 25 volts, and as high as 40 volts. Whatever you get, it should rise when you rev the engine. If the alternator isn't reading right, that's your problem. If the alternator's reading right, but the output from the regulator isn't, then the regulator's the problem. Usually, the regulator goes before the alternator does.

Speaking generally about bike electronics and not to your specific model I would recommend the following. ALWAYS BUY A MANUAL FOR THE BIKE. This will have the specs you need. What speed are you running the engine at when you do your test? If engine speed is too low you will get a low reading. Check the manual for the ideal tick over speed and be sure that you have the rate right. Run the engine at 5000 rpm and test again to see if you get a rise in voltage output above battery level. 13.5 to 14.5 is OK. Next, check the connections carefully. If there are loose or corroded connections, tighten and/or clean them. Check ALL the wiring to and from the alternator. Often that is the problem and it is foolish to condemn a perfectly good alternator and replace it, only to find the problem still exists. Most charging problems on bikes are caused by corrosion at the connections. On the other hand, a short will simply cause new components to also fail. Check carefully. Once you have done that, load up the alternator by turning everything electrical on and checking the output voltage again. You are looking for at least battery voltage + .5 volts and if you get a little more than that, the alternator is fine. If you have an external voltage regulator/rectifier and the voltage is still low, replace it and try again. Next make sure that the system is cooling correctly. Some bikes use both air and oil cooling for the electrical charging system and both need to work well or the system will break down due to excessive heat. Your battery should read between 12.4 and 12.8 volts. If not, it will need checking and possibly replacing. Under 12v dump it. Now check the OHMS rating for the stator. This is done by checking the output wires (Disconnected and typically three wires) from the stator. Check the specifications for your bike, but typically you need to find a reading between 0.1 AND 2 OHMS. Check across all three wires. Then check there is no short to the case from all three wires with the meter still in OHMS setting. If there is and you get a reading, the stator is dying and needs replacing. You may not be able to test the rectifier/regulator but if you can do so, check the manual for the specs and then test it accordingly. Next you need to check the output voltage of the stator. Again, your manual will give you the exact specs but generally speaking you are looking for around 75 volts AC. Ground the black lead from the meter to an earth point on the bike. Any good earth point will do. With the leads from the stator disconnected, start the bike and run it at 5000 rpm. Check the AC voltage (set the meter to AC voltage) and make sure it is the same reading across all the wires (typically, three wires). As I said, typically around 75 volts. A lower than spec reading will indicate a stator or rotor problem and replacement is going to have to happen. Hope this helps.

its like 7 dollars just get a new one if its clicking it might need a new battery i got one of the new gel batteries ,if bat is good it probly needs a new solenoid

you can try to jump wires at key switch

check your stator plug to make sure it is secure first, check the wires to & from stator plug for damage, check your circuit breaker/relay for damage, if all ok, well time to check the stator & see what it's putting out.

check the inexpensive & easy first like plug, stator wiring, voltage regulator, relay/circuit breaker, fuse, if all ok look at the stator this is where the money starts

Believe you have a couple different problems, as far as no spark, I believe you have a bad coil.

Sounds like a replacement ignition switch is needed. Other than that, it could be a starter motor fault. Check the wiring on the starter motor. If you have a volt meter use it to check voltage is arriving at the motor. If it is and the motor is not turning then you have your answer. If not, check the voltages from the ignition switch. If you find no power get a new switch. Make sure a fuse has not blown before you go and buy a new one but if it has, try and find out WHY it blew. Do you have a short in the wiring?

Ensure that the engine is warmed up to normal operating temperature and the enrichener knob is pushed all the way in BEFORE adjusting engine idle speed. It is possible for a properly warmed up engine to idle above the normal idle range of 950-1050 RPM with the enrichener knob pulled PARTIALLY OUT. If the bike has no tachometer attach one or attach a DIGITAL MULTIMETER equipped with an RPM INDUCTIVE PICKUP over front spark plug cable to monitor engine RPM. Then start the motorcycle engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature with enrichener knob pushed fully in (enrichener closed). Then set the idle speed to 950-1050 RPM using a special CARBURETOR IDLE ADJUSTER and tip. Turn clockwise to increase idle speed and turn counterclockwise to decrease idle speed. The throttle stop screw in on the right or front side of the CV carb.

Check your ignition fuse first,

it could be a fuse or a break in the cable ,check with a multi meter from battery to the switch and all the connecters cheers

Is this bike stolen?

bad switch

Simplest way is to go to a dealer, give him the VIN number and get the correct key to fit both lock and ignition switch. A new set of keys is cheaper than a steering lock and ignition key, even aftermarket ones.

Make sure battery has a full charge and both positive and negitave battery connections are clean and tight.Make sure unit is in nuteral and try to crank. If engine wont crank check starter selonid or relay. MAKE SURE BATTERY HAS A FULL CHARGE.

Sorry I cannot help at this time but if you go to an H-D dealership a shop foreman may be able to help OR it may be a fairly cheap solution to just but a service manual.