20 Most Recent 2002 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat Boy Questions & Answers

Check all of your fuel lines for cracks, you might have one sucking air. If not check your o rings on injectors.

Hi, Anonymous if you ask 10 different riders you will get 10 different answers. All oil is certified by the Oil Gods to perform under specific conditions for specific applications and any oil is better than no oil and if you're in a bind diesel oil works just fine. If your engine is air-cooled never run automotive oil because normal motorcycle cylinder head temperatures run much hotter than water-cooled cylinder heads, make sure the oil is designed for motorcycles. Your owners manual recommends a specific type of oil that is designed to lubricate the engine parts to withstand the normal driving conditions the motorcycle was intended to be used for, end of the story. Now for an analogy, your cars owners manual recommends using 87 octane fuel to power your engine for maximum performance and it does a wonderful job of achieving that goal. But you say 92 octane is better because it has a higher number and is more expensive, well guess what your car will not run any better and there are no long or short term benefits from running a higher octane fuel bottom line your car doesn't need it. Same thing with oil sure they make lubricants that can withstand the temperature of molten lava which you would need if you were planning to drive into an active volcano, don't waste your time and money on snake oil just use what your bike needs and your manufacturer recommends and nothing more. The oil weight grade is for ambient temperatures you expect to drive in between oil changes 20w50 covers 80% of all driving temperature conditions if you're looking for a better oil that works in all temperature conditions, buy a Synthetic in the same grade from a reputable oil manufacturer I recommend AMSOIL just because they were the pioneers in synthetics and their load test numbers for wear put them in a class all by themselves and you can go longer and further in between oil changes. It's a little hard to find in stores but easily available online otherwise Harley Syn 3 is my second choice. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.amsoil.com/?zo=5250183 http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Azcc4 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softail-models/196720-throttle-cable-removal.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Hank before diagnosing any brake light issue always check the bulb and fuse first for integrity a brake light staying on is usually caused by the front brake light switch, which is mechanical, not disengaging. In early models moving the throttle control housing closer to the front brake master cylinder is the main fix. On late models, the switch gets tweaked and needs to be realigned. A brake light that does not come on when the brake lever is applied can be caused by a faulty switch or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. The rear brake light switch is hydraulic and it is extremely rare to malfunction in a closed circuit condition causing the brake light to stay on. Usually, rear brake light switch issues are caused by no brake pedal free play or a sticky rear master cylinder piston. A brake light that does not come on when the rear brake pedal is depressed can be caused by a faulty switch, air contamination in the brake line, or no continuity in the wiring at the switch. Finally, most tail light wiring harnesses run under the rear fender held in place by spot-welded clips. Worn out rear shocks or lowered suspension can bottom out causing the rear tire to come in contact with the wiring harness, rubbing the insulation off, exposing the bare metal inner core, allowing it to break or short out. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/threads/brake-light-not-working.364581/ http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300?highlight=1998+sportster+owner https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. Your engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel. 1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet. 2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide. 3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle. 4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet. 5. 3/4 to wide-open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet. 6. A wide-open throttle is managed by the main jet. If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, the engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark grey, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.harley-performance.com/harley-davidson-carburetor.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300?highlight=1998+sportster+owner https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softail-models/929722-rear-crash-bars-on-a-heritage-need-help.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Harris_lchri for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-install-an-aftermarket-air-cleaner-on-your-harley http://www.mediafire.com/file/8rnaoz8v2441a32/2006+Harley+Davidson+Dyna+Models+Service+Manual.pdf https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/street-bob-efi-2006-owners-manual-66439 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Vmr2254 and the usual suspects are: 1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. 2. A faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator. 3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends. 4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity. 5. Faulty system relay or ignition relay, check for continuity. 6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module. 7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets. 8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM. 9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch. 10. Fuel tank empty 11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge. 12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter. 13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck. 14. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line. 15. Faulty fuel pump. 16. Faulty pressure regulator. 17. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors. 18. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment. 19. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignition-tuner-ecm-fuel-injection/988341-fatboy-runs-fine-for-a-while-then-dies-2.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/fat-boy-2005-owners-manual-66398 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Ted and the usual suspects are: 1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. 2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator. 3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends. 4. A failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity. 5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity. 6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module. 7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets. 8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM. 9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch. 10. Faulty or corroded kill switch. 11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working. 12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter. 13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line. 14. Fuel tank empty. 15. The gas cap is not venting properly or the fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen the gas cap and go for a test ride. 16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors. 17. Vacuum line from the intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged. 18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl. 19. Petcock clogged or damaged. 20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment. 21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.v-twinforum.com/threads/help-fatboy-backfiring-stuttering-wont-run.15508/#post-152966 http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Davbq and the usual suspects are: 1. Contaminated or faulty speed sensor. 2. Faulty turn signal module. 3. Corroded, broken or loose connector pins/sockets in the wire harness between the speedometer and the ECM or TSSM and the sensor. 4. The speedometer unit has failed. 5. Speedometer instrument fuse has blown. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softail-models/554753-speedometer-not-working.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.denniskirk.com/load-equalizer/2002-harley-davidson-softail-fat-boy-flstf.mmy http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300?highlight=1998+sportster+owner https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Jpsteffey for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.fuelpumpfactory.com/products/fpf-harley-davidson-fuel-pressure-regulator-43-psi-replaces-oem-27408-01 http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Robert for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-harley-trouble-codes.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300 https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Duplicate question already answered

Hi, Amanda, you need a turn signal load equalizer, it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also for 2003 and older models carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes and reduce the risk of being stranded or towed also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM like parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your speedometer sensor is contaminated and needs to be cleaned. And the usual suspects are: 1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. 2. Faulty charging system. 3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors 4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections. 5. The engine got wet where it didn't like to get wet. 6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables, etc. 7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends. Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.jpcycles.com/product/320-183/badlands-turn-signal-load-equalizer?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA-Badlands-Products&utm_id=google_10871404077_106643889306_457783605516_pla-1004718708237_c__320-183_Cj0KCQiA4feBBhC9ARIsABp_nbV6yb73bu2e6ASWLwWBiniAXkzJ0P6eEaeyAK8EbdaSMUffR55WhOUaAm6pEALw_wcB&utm_term=1004718708237&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4feBBhC9ARIsABp_nbV6yb73bu2e6ASWLwWBiniAXkzJ0P6eEaeyAK8EbdaSMUffR55WhOUaAm6pEALw_wcB http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300?highlight=1998+sportster+owner https://www.6ya.com/

Hi, Pennie it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also for 2003 and older models carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes and reduce the risk of being stranded or towed also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM like parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your speedometer sensor is contaminated and needs to be cleaned. And the usual suspects are: 1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. 2. Faulty charging system. 3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors 4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections. 5. The engine got wet where it didn't like to get wet. 6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables, etc. 7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends. Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softail-models/927569-check-engine-light.html http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/file https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300?highlight=1998+sportster+owner https://www.6ya.com/how-6ya-works to speak to me personally.

Take apart and clean the entire fuel system from the tank to the engine making sure you give special attention to small opening areas like the venturi on a carb or needle valve on a float needle. Replace or rebuild what ever looks especially gnarly.

hi! For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below, and for specific information or questions, please feel free to contact me at [email protected] http://www.motorpartstore.com.Good luck and have a nice day.