20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FXDXT Dyna Super Glide T-sport Questions & Answers

I have no idea what the numbers you refer to are about. You need to see what codes are set

Ask a tech that works on this make and model

Test the primary coil resistance on your coil. Disconnect all the wires going to the small terminals (primary) on your coil. Using a good ohmmeter on Rx1 setting, test the resistance between the two small terminals. You should read somewhere between 2 and 3 ohms. If you read more, the coil is bad. Before you do this test short out both leads of the ohmmeter and if the reading is not zero you will need to write down or otherwise remember the number and subtract it from the reading you get from the primary circuit test or you will have an incorrect resistance reading for the primary wires because you will also be reading the ohmmeter internal resistance and/or the wire and lead resistance added to the primary wiring resistance. You can also test the coil by leaving the "hot" wire on the coil and replacing the other side (ground side) with a short piece of wire. Turn the ignition on and temporarily ground the short piece of wire you put on the "out" (ground) side. When you take the wire away from the ground, (which will collapse the primary current into the secondary) you should see a spark at the plugs if it is a wasted spark system or at one of the plugs if it is not a wasted spark system. If you have current to both sides of the primary of a two part coil both plugs should get a spark whether wasted spark system or not as you are energizing both sides of the primary and collapsing both into both secondaries at the same time when you remove the ground wire from the cylinder head ground. If you have spark, it sounds like either the sensor in the timing cavity of the engine is bad or the electronic ignition unit is bad. You need compression, fuel and spark for combustion so if you have spark check for compression and fuel. You could spray some fuel directly into the induction module with the throttle plate open and then try startign and if it satrts the problem is fuel delivery tothe cylinder.

I recommend only H-D plugs myself. Check electrode gap with a wire-type feeler gauge. Bend the outside of the electrode so that only a slight drag is felt on the gauge as it passes between the electrodes. The proper gap measurement is 0.038-0.043 in. (0.97-1.09 mm).

Bad gas? bad coil? bad plug? bad plug wires?

no, I have tried and had to buy mine

Will engine turn over? Are you getting spark to the plugs?

It depends on the gear you are in and the speed you are going. If you are lugging the engine at low speed, the compensator sprocket cannot absorb the tremendous power pulses produced by the engine. Your bike is equipped with a manual transmission and a clutch, not an automatic transmission like a automobile. Now, if you cannot hold a steady speed of about forty miles per hour, your engine may be running lean. If it's fuel injected, you need to get a dealer or a shop that can change the fuel mapping to look at it. If it's a carburetor equipped bike, you need to go one step richer on the slow jet.

Good luck
Steve

It depends on how much old gas is in the tank and what condition it's in. Personally, I'd rather drain the tank. I seem to remember that your bike has a single tank instead of two halves like a Softail. To drain the tank, if your tank has a fuel petcock, take a large funnel and an empty fuel can and place it in position under the petcock. Loosen the petcock until the fuel starts to run out. Catch it with the funnel and direct it into the can. Or, there is a "crossover hose at the front of the tank. Pull one end of this hose off and catch the fuel there. If you do it this way, you're going to have fuel coming from two places at the same time. Sometimes this results in fuel going everywhere. Not good as a danger of fire exist.

Once you get the bulk of the fuel drained. You can add new fuel with a little Sea Foam additive to the tank. Now, you may have to remove and clean the carb as well. If he fuel is over about a year old, you may have problems in the carb.

Good Luck
Steve

There are no adjustments on the front brake hand control. If the lever is too low, check the level of the fluid in the master cylinder. Add on the correct type of fluid as listed on the master cylinder top. Do not mix different types of brake fluid.

Good Luck
Steve

To change the throttle cables, remove the air cleaner, filter, and backing plate to allow good access to the carburetor. Some bikes even require removing the fuel tank. Then loosen the throttle cable and idle cable adjusters and turn them to their shortest position giving you as much slack as possible.

Remove the two screws that hold the right handlebar switch housing halves together. Carefully seperate the halves and remove the cables from the throttle grip. Do not lose the cable ferrels. The cables should pull out of the bottom of the switch housing now. You may have to put some penetrating oil on the metal ends that are in the switch housing and work them around a bit. They have a little metal ring on them that expands once it's in the hole of the switch houseing. They can be very aggrevating to say the least.

With the grip ends loose, removing the carb ends is simple. Get some slack in the cable, align it with the slot in the carb and remove it. Do the same with the idle cable.

Installing the new cables are the exact reverse of removing the old ones. Remember, the idle cable is the one with the spring on the cable. If you purchased any cable other than a Harley cable, lube the cable with some "Dri-Slide". I always lube any cable (including Harley cables) that I install. Lube the inside of the throttle grip and the outside of the handlebar with white lithium grease. Lube the nylon part of the throttle grip with the same grease where the cables connect to it.

Once you get the cables on, it is very important that you get the cables adjusted correctly. Adjust the throttle cable first so that you have just a bit of slack in the cable. The throttle should open wide open and when shut, you should have a bit of slack in the cable. Then I like to adjust the idle cable tight enough so that I actually starts to compress the little spring on the cable at the carb end. Not much but just a bit of compression on the spring.

Once you're finished, make absolutely certain that your throttle control is working smoothly, freely, and will return to closed position when you let go of it. If it won't do this, it is unsafe. Work with it until you find the problem. Failure to do this job properly could cause throttle stickage and lead to serious injury or death. Make SURE you have the job done correctly before riding the bike.

Good Luck
Steve

The check engine light comes only when the computer control unit senses a fault in the electronic controls of the engine and/or the emission system, dozens of faults turn the light on, to know what has developed a problem you must have the system tested using s scanner

This is a major job. It requires that the entire primary drive, including the engine compensator sprocket, primary chain, clutch assembly, inner primary cover, and starter be removed from the engine. The rear wheel will also have to come out. Luckily, the way the Dyna frame is designed, you won't have to pull the swing arm off to change the belt, just remove the left shock absorber. You will need a torque wrench(es) that will retorque the engine sproket nut to 150-165 foot pound and the clutch assembly nut to 60-80 foot pound in the LEFT HANDED direction. You'll also need some way to lock the primary up while you apply these torques. We use a locking bar to do this which is simply a bar long enough to properly place in the teeth on the engine sprocket and the clutch drum to lock the assembly up while applying the torque. The engine does not have enough compression to all for the application of this amount of torque.

Here again, this is quite an involved job. I would suggest that you purchase a H-D service manual. It's far too involved for me to give you step by step instructions via this forum.

BTW: You didn't mention why you wanted to change the final drive belt. I wouldn't mess with changing it until I noticed cracks forming along the inside lugs or they started breaking off. The job is difficult and the belt is EXPENSIVE. I've seen these belts run 50-60K miles with no problem.

It depends on the year model of your bike. This thread says your bike is a 01 FXDXT Super Glide. Since 1994, all Harley engines have been what we call "head breathers". The crankcase ventilation is done through ports in the heads unlike previous years where the engine breathed thorough a port in the lower crankcase. In each version, there are baffles to seperate the oil mist from the air. The later version "Head breathers" were better at this than the earlier versions. Still some oil is blown into the air cleaner and makes the removal and cleaning of the inside of the air filter necessary.

However if there is too much oil building up too quickly, in the head breather models there are small "umbrella" valves in the center part of the rocker box covers that over time become brittle due to head. It's not very difficult to take the top off the rocker box cover and replace these umbrellas if you have the proper tools and know how.

On the twin cam engines, there are six bolts holding the top plate on the rocker box cover. Remove these six bolts and the top plate and the center plate come off the head. The umbrella valve is in the center part. Simply remove the old umbrella and pull in the new on in the proper direction. Replace the rocker box covers with new gaskets.