20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI Heritage Classic - Page 8 Questions & Answers

To check the adjustment of the shifter pawl, first you need to have that lever tight. Here's the problem. You probably are going to find that the lever will not tighten. The splines on the shaft are worn out. This is bad. You must pull everything on the left side of the bike to get to the lever to replace it. If the spines are worn on the shaft, even a new lever is not going to fix the problem, the shaft must be replaced. This is a major job as the guts of the transmission have to come out. The shifter pawl shaft is the one of the first parts put into the transmission and one of the last to come out.

To check the adjustemtment of the shifter pawl, with the bike NOT running and the transmission in neutral, gently push down on the shfiter lever until the transmission tries to shift. Notice the distance. Now do in the other direction, pull up like you're going to second gear. Notice how far the shifter goes before it is stopped by the shifter fork trying to shift the transmission. There should be about the same travel up as three is down and the spring tension should be the same in both directions as well. To adjust the shifter pawl requires special tools as well.

Good luck
Steve

Bubba,

My 120 c.i. Ultima just started having the same problem this weekend. I am told that if its not overfilled with oil, then the crancase breather is clogged. Good luck finding that on the web. I've been looking since 8 this morning and still don't have an answer. My Service Department Manager at the R.V. Dealer where I work says its a bad seal. My mechanic says, "Without looking at it, I don't know, bring it in, give me $120.00 an hour, and I'll probably find a fix for it that will cost you less than $1,000.00." R.V. Maull

There is no horn relay on a stock Harley horn.

Steve

To remove the starter on you Softail, first disconnect the negative side of the battery.

Then drain the primary and remove any footboards, shifters, ect. so that you can get the outer primary cover off. Once the cover is off, remove the small bolt that holds the starter jackshaft on and remove the jackshaft. The jackshaft coupling may come out with the jackshaft. Mark which way the coupling goes back in as there is a snap ring on the inside that is not in the center.

Now, go to the right side of the bike and remove the exhaust system, and remove the bolts that hold the oil in. Do not take the tank out but you need to be able to lift the tank just a bit. Remove the battery cable from the starter using a 12mm wrench. There are two large bolts that hold the starter into the inner primary, remove these two bolts and unplug the small wire at the top of the solenoid and the starter will come out.

Good Luck
Steve

did you tune the carbs or reset the timing to match the new exhaust

The oil line routing varies from year to year and model to model. Please advise me as to what year and model bike you're working on.

Steve

Sure it is. I've worked on plenty of bikes that have had them removed. The biggest complaint is that they need to have the carb rejetted because of a "flat spot" in the throttle response at about 55-65 mph. The problem is not their carb jetting. It is the lack of backpressure on the exhaust system causing the scavenging effect of the pipe to **** the fresh fuel air mixture out of the cylinder at that particular speed. Now, I am usually able to restore almost all the performance but installing a bolt with three nuts on the inside of the pipe. It restores just enough to get "most" of the power back without effecting the sound. Personally, Long shots are simply too loud for me. But, it's your bike and your ears. If you take the baffles out and don't like them, you can put them back in. Go for it.

Good Luck
Steve

I have a wiring diagram for a '94 FXDWG I can send you. It should be pretty close for the most part. I'll be glad to send it to you if you'll e-mail me directly. The file is larger than the 150K this site allows me to send. I'll send it to you as a jpeg file. Send me an e-mail at [email protected] and remind me which schematic you want. I get a lot of these requests and I can't keep them straight.

Good Luck
Steve

Before you submit an idea, I'd advise talking to an attorney. You need to document the idea and have proof of when you submittted it. Then, visit http://www.harley-davidson.com/wcm/Content/Pages/Utility/hd_contact_us.jsp?locale=en_US

Look for submit an idea.

Good Luck
steve

S&S 110's are a "special" edition. They were produced in limited quanities in celebration of S&S's 40th anniversary. I believe that head torque is a 3 step process ending at 45 ft pounds. Proper engine assembly techniques should be used in the construction of this motor. S&S also has offers technical support at (866) 244-2673.

These are the old style mechanical switches that Harley used to use. In 1996, I think is the year that Harley went to the electronic switch that only has three wires and one plug. What happens to the old style switch is simply, they wear out. You can still get them through your local H-D dealer. I would suggest that you purchase and original OEM replacement as the aftermarket switches are of inferior quality. All the aftermarket replacement switches are made in Taiwan (Chinese).

Good Luck
Steve

It sounds to me like it is way to rich of a fuel mixture. When a motorcycle is to ****, when you excellerate it will flood one spark plug and miss. when you let off the throttle there is fuel that is igniting in the chamber. The carb from sitting too long maybe needs a cleaning or just the fuel mixture leaned out.Have fun with your 41 they are great bikes.

Yes, your clutch is adjustable. Follow your clutch cable downwards and you'll find a rubber bellows type cover over the cable adjuster. Slide the cover up or down to gain access to the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inward to get as much slack in the cable as you can.

Now, go down to the primary cover and remove the derby cover's five bolts and remove the cover. Inside you'll see the clutch assembly with the adjuster in the center. Loosen the large nut and turn the adjuster bolt inwards until you feel resistance. Do not force the screw, turn it until you feel resistance. Then, back the screw back out 1/2 turn. Lock the lock nut down and replace the derby cover.

Go back to the cable adjuster and adjust the adjuster outwards until you have about 1/8" freeplay at the clutch lever. Tighthen the lock nut and replace the bellows cover.

Good Luck
Steve

For the most part it will do the job. There are some things different on your bike from a big dresser but as long as you keep in mind that the information is general in nature, you'll be fine.

Good Luck
Steve

You have to remove the dash. Take the screw out of the trip reset knob and the nut off between the speedo and the ignition switch. The dash will lift off. Sometimes you can get to the bulbs you want to replace by using something to pry the socket out of the speedo. Otherwise, you'll have to take the two pins, one on each side, out to lift the speedo up. Pull the socket out replace the bulb and reinstall the speedo.

Good Luck
steve

The stripped out lever may not be your only problem. Usually, when the lever strips out, it damages the splines on the shifter pawl shaft to the extent that the new lever will not last long before you have the same problem. I'd recommend that the shifter pawl shaft be replaced as well.

Now, here's the problem. This is a BIG job on either the Evolution or Twin Cam powered machines. Not only do you have to remove both the outer and inner primary cover, you must also pull everything out of the transmission in order to get the shifter pawl shaft out. Luckily, the five speed transmission is much easier to tear down than the old four speeds were. It can be done by an amateur but I'd suggest purchasing a service manual. Take your bike to the shop and talk to them about it. Get a second opinion. After all, I can't see the bike from here.

Good Luck
Steve

thinc u better inspect tank n fuel flow before u turn it into a space shuttle--u hav quite an impressive scoot--Im mostly an olschooler wen hd's had low hp--ther is much literature from newshoolers online or in stores

Go to this site for the information you need. Simply choose OEM parts, H-D, any FXST model, then the section you want to see such as the clutch, engine, or whatever. If you have anymore questions, repost and we'll see if we can help you.

http://www.bikebandit.com/

Good Luck
Steve

It's probably your idle speed servo motor. You'll have to take it to a dealer to remedy the problem. There should be a code in the system. It's supposed to go to a set position and stop but it sounds like it isn't stopping. It just keeps looking for that position.

Good Luck
Steve

To begin with, I hope nobody was hurt. Having the rear wheel lock up at the wrong time could be hazardous. I hope the damage was limited to the bike. The bike can be fixed.

If the bike had 76,000 miles on it when this happened, I wouldn't classify it as a "frequent problem". Matter of fact, I've never heard of it happening but there seems to be something strange here. I don't know of many 2008 model bikes that have that many miles on them. Matter of fact, I don't know of many bikes PERIOD that have that many miles on them. My 1965 Panhead doesn't have that many miles on it.

Now, you can look for factory recalls. I looked in several places and didn't find anything. If you are still dissatisfied, you can call the customer services at the motor factory and complain. Maybe they'll do something.

Good Luck
Steve