20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI Heritage Classic - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Well, I really don't know how to answer this question because there are so many variables that I do have information on. The starter clutch is usually a pretty tough part considering the job it does. If you are having repeated failures of this part, there are things you need to look at. First, are you using a good quality replacement part? H-D makes good parts but some other aftermarket suppliers have varying quality standards. Make sure you are using a high quality part. Check to see if your ignition timing is correct and that you're using fuel sufficient to prevent preignition. Check the primary chain for the proper tension. Usually a "too tight" primary chain causes starter problems. If your engine has been extensively modified, you may need a more "heavy duty" starter. But, I have seen stock starters work on some very hot engines. This is the best information that I can offer to your problem.

Good Luck
Steve

Rainwater can sometimes get into the frame tubing depending on the style of frame, whether it was customized and it's age (cracks in welds etc).
There's a good chance, it was simply rain water escaping from the frame tubing!

Disconnect the battery, remove the negative 1st...Remove primary cover...Hold pinion gear in place and remove jackshaft bolt...
Remove rear exhaust pipe...Remove allen screw end cover... Remove starter mounting alan head bolts and washers....Disconnect positive battery lead and solenoid wire from starter....Remove starter...
Note: you might need to loosen the oil tank mounts to provide clearance for starter removal...
Install new starter in reverse order...Torque specs...
Starter mounting bolts - 13 - 30 ft-lbs
Jackshaft bolt - 7 - 9 ft-lbs

Aftermarket pipes tend to lower back pressure, this will cause the fuel/air mix to lean out and result in the "popping" you hear---Backfiring, is extremely rare these days with electronic ignitions and the high reliability of engines. Real backfiring means the engine is not properly timed and the fuel/air mix is getting a spark and ignition at the wrong time (when the intake valve is open). Real backfiring is actually the bike "spitting up" in a sense, backwards through the carburetor or intake.You can check for exhaust leaks up around the cylinder heads by putting on some gloves and covering the exhaust tips momentarily. I have seen exhaust leaks that will make the popping worse by allowing air to be sucked in during deceleration...Hope this helps.

If the small diameter hose, usually clear in color, comes off the very bottom of the carb, it doesn't connect anywhere. This is an overflow hose. In the event the float bowl overfills for any reason, the hose directs the fuel to a place where it will run onto the ground instead of the hot engine. Usually, it goes back and down between the engine and the transmission to the bottom of the bike.

Good Luck
Steve

The battery ligh indicates a charging problem. It doesn't sound like you have a charging problem. Did you connect the fog lights directly to the battery via relays or did you use the bike's wiring? If you used the bike's wiring, disconnect the fog lights and use a relay setup directly from the battery. Using the relay setup will not only give you better light, it will avoid the ECM giving you errors for problems that might not exist. Unfortunately with new vehicles, you sometimes can't even put a different bulb type in without getting an error from the ECM.

Your neutral indicator switch may be bad. Look on the chrome cover on top of the transmission and you'll see a wire that plugs onto the neutral switch. Disconnect this wire and ground it to the engine. Turn on the ignition switch and the indicator light should light up. If it does, replace the neutral switch. If it doesn't, you've got a wiring problem between there and the indicator lamp.

Good Luck
Steve

Look at the end of the starter for a single wire that plugs onto the starter just above the five sided plate, green or green/white colored wire. Unplug the wire and connect a test light or a volt meter to the wire. Turn on the ignition switch and press the start button. The test light should light up or the meter should show battery voltage. If not, your starter relay is probably bad. They are usually located on the mud shield on the lower part of the rear fender. It's a one inch plastic cube. For some reason, these give a bit of trouble on the Softail series bike. I think it's due to where they are mounted. If you're hearing a loud click but the engine is not turning over, it's the contacts in the starter solenoid. Remove the 5-sided plate and take the plunger and spring out. Look at the two large copper contacts inside the solenoid. If they are badly burned, they should be replaced. This can usually be done without removing the starter. Parts are available through H-D dealers or aftermarket sources.

Good Luck
Steve

Not really; I don't think that to disconnect your Batt will change the program set on the Fuelpack....It's will remain in the unit memory...

You can hold it by finger during the cold start...

You will have to remove the seat the panel fuse is under a black plastic cover behind the Batt...

Hi there I see that this question has been up for a while. The reason being is that we are not really sopposed to point you in other directions for assistance. What you need to do is get ahold of Paughco to see what they suggest for the fuelpak settings. Other than that you will need to get ahold of Harley Davidson to see what they suggest or even Vince and Hines.. There are many variables that determine what code you need and we dont want to give you something that is wrong and possibly cause you more grief. We are sorry that we connot give you the exact code but contacting the maufacturers is the safest route. Good luck and easy riding.

Try this :--- Prime the carb by pouring a small amount of fuel directly into the carb , then try to start.If it starts and runs smooth.Then its a fuel delivery problem.The fuel pump has to be checked.But if the problem is same, then Take the carb bowl out and clean it, inspect the pump assembly, remove and clean the needle, check the float and assembly for any damage or dirt. Also inspect the throttle assembly. Also get the battery voltage checked, also get battery to start connection checked.Also measure the voltage at voltage regulator from battery to regulator.-------- If the spark is weak then it can be coil and spark plug issue,.If both checked out ok, then it can be faulty ignition sensor.Causing the problem--------This troubleshooting will help to confirm the problem.This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

How long is the bike setting between when you park it and when you try to start it again? When you get ready to ride it, did you put a battery charger on it and bring the battery to a full charge?

When thinking it's getting to be time to ride, I recommend charging the battery with a charger disigned for ATV'S/motorcycles. When the battery is fully charged, take the charger off and test the battery with a load tester. If it passes the load test, attempt to start the bike. If it starts, and there is no further problems, Enjoy the ride till you park it long term again. I might suggest putting a battery tender and very slow trickle chat=rge on during storage

Hope this helps you

No, the TSM does not have this function in it. It controls nothing but the turn signals. Whoever wired the passing lights in used the wire for the high beam light as a power wire for the passing lights. This was probably done so that they would not overload the charging system. If you have the high beam light and the passing lights on, it's a tremendous draw on the charging system and it may have caused a fuse to blow. So, they probably wired the passing lights to operate without the high beam light. I think the wire is white for the high beam.

Good Luck
Steve

It sounds like your battery is shorted. You need to take the battery to a shop and have it load tested. Harley's are not designed to run off the alternator like a car is.

Good Luck
Steve

Your battery is bad. The give away is that the engine will start after leaving a set of jumper cables on for a minute. Take the battery out and take it somewhere that has the equipment to do a "load test" on the battery. Just because a battery checks with 12 volts on it doesn't mean it's good. Connect your volt meter and try to start the engine. Bet it falls below 10 volts when you push the starter button.

To get the starter out, you must drain and remove the outer primary cover. There is a small but long bolt that holds the starter jackshaft on. Remove the bolt and the coupling (mark the coupling so you know which direction it came out) and then the starter will come out.

Good Luck
Steve

The battery for your Softail is under the seat. The older Softail seats had a large bolt on either side of the seat to hold it on. Once you get the seat off, you'll see the battery. Disconnect the negative side first as you take the battery out. Reconnect the negative side last as you install the new battery.

Good Luck
Steve

When you adjust the pushrods on any H-D Evolution or later engine, you must compress the tappet by 0.100". According to the list that I have, you must turn the pushrod three complete turns (18 flats) to lengthen it this much. I'd double check your pushrods to make sure this is correct. Find a point where you can measure the pushrod and take a measurement using a dial caliper. Turn the pushrod to extend it by three full turns and remeasure the pushrod. It should be 0.100" longer.

To install your pushrods, bring one piston to top dead center on the compression stroke. Make sure that both tappets on that cylinder are as low as they go in their bores. Install the pushrod with the pushrod tube into the head. Make sure you've got the O-rings in the head and the tappet block. Extend the pushrod by turning it with your fingers until it gets tight. Then, turn it three more turns using wrenches and lock the locknut. Do the same with the other pushrod. Let the engine sit and do not turn the engine until the tappets bleed down and you can again turn the pushrods with your fingers. This may take as long as ten minutes. Once you can turn the pushrods by hand. Bring the other cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke. Make sure that both tappets are at the low point in their bore. Install the other two pushrods the same as you did the first two and allow the engine to set until the tappets bleed down. Once you can spin the pushrods in your fingers. Finish installing the pushrod tubes.

Now, this is accurate provided your pushrods have a 32 threads per inch adjuster. If not, you must figure out how many "flats" that you have to turn the pushrod to lengthen it by 0.100". Substitute this number of flats in for the number of turns to lengthen the pushrod after you get it finger tight.

The tappet plunger has approx. 0.200" of travel in it. You want to adjust the pushrod so that the plunger in the tappet is about mid way in it's travel or 0.100" or there abouts.

Good Luck
Steve

Does it click when you try to start it? If it does, Have a load test done on the battery. It may just have bad cells and no cold cranking amps. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302