2001 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Hugger - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

if your sitting on the bike they are under your left leg

Did you properly adjust the clutch AND the clutch cable after you put in the new cable??? Is the whine only when you pull in the clutch lever and if so when does it start, first portion of lever movement or middle or when the lever is all the way to the handlebar grip??? NO noise when clutch is fully released???? Did you get the balls back into the ramp assembly correctly and install them with multi purpose grease to hold them in position while assembling. Also check that the rest of the parts were assembled correctly. As a last point confirm that the new caqble assembly is the correct part.

Most importantly you must connect it correctly to the positive and negative terminal!! First find where the battery is on your bike you shouldn't need to remove it from the bike - once you have located the battery have a close look at the wires going to it. RED - positive BLACK - negative You must make sure you connect the red "positive" to the positive terminal and visa versa for the negative . connect the battery charger clamps to the terminals and then turn on the power to the charger after its all connected. hope this helps

From your description, it sounds like the new bulbs (that won't flash) are LED bulbs. When you replace the stock Harley incandescent bulbs with LEDs, you NEED to add a LOAD EQUALIZER to make the bulbs flash: http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-877 The amp draw is different with LEDs, and they won't flash without the equalizer.

This is caused by the float in the carburetor becoming stuck in the down potion. This happens due to dirt build up or, a bad seat on the plunger that controls fuel into the carb or a leaky float. The float may have a leak that causes it to take on a amount of fuel. The carburetor needs to be cleaned and rebuilt. If you've never done this I suggest you take it to a shop and ask them to do it.If you want to try and to it yourself buy a repair manual, carb rebuild kit and a can of carb cleaner. Use the manual to find out how to remove the carburetor and disassemble it. Take your time disassembling the carb. Find a clean place to work. Lay out each part as your remove it in order. Pay special attention to the small plunger that is attached to the float. Make sure you replace the float and plunger both. You'll get a new ones in the kit. Make sure the tube it fits in to is clean. Spaying cleaner directly into this is normally good enough to get it clean. Use a small brush or a q-tip wrapped tightly by twisting it in your fingers if you need to. DO NOT use anything that can scratch. This will ruin the carburetor. Clean carb body and all parts thoroughly with carb cleaner. Carefully reassemble, do not over tighten any screws.

Your problem is probably do to a blown ignition fuse. Remove the triangle cover on the left side of the bike just behind the battery. Grab the cover and pull straight out to remove it. No need to remove screws. Once the cover is off look at the bottom side for a big plug with a bunch of wires going into it. Unclip and slide out. The fuse with the two red and black wires and one gray wire is the ignition fuse. Check and replace this fuse if necessary.

In the middle of the clutch cable under a rubber boot is the adjustment for the cable. Slide this down to access the adjuster. This may take a little effort to do. Use a 1/2 inch wrench to hold the adjuster and a 9/16 to loosen the lock nut. Turn the lock nut and adjuster all the way to the top. Remove the retaining ring on the underside of hand control and remove pin. Remove clutch lever. Slide out the pin holding the clutch cable in place. Remove derby cover, the large round cover where the cable enters buy removing the four hex screws. Remove spring with attached hex lock plate. Use a flat head screw driver to turn adjusting screw clockwise to release ramp and coupling mechanism. it should move forward and make the cable slack enough to remove it. Unscrew nut from adjusting screw, remove the cable end from small slotted end of coupler. Unscrew the cable from primary cover.Screw the new cable in to the cover, reconnect cable to the coupler. Leave derby cover off and re-install everything, except spring and hex plate. Turn the clutch adjusting screw counter-clockwise until resistance is felt, then back-off 1/4 turn. Re-install spring and hex plate, you may have to wiggle the hex nut a bit to get everything to line up. Replace the derby cover. Turn adjuster on the cable down until there is about 1/16 free play at clutch handle. Tighten the adjuster lock nut. Slide the protective boot back over the cable adjuster. I recommend using zip ties to seal the boot. Place a zip tie at the bottom of the boot first. Then using some WD-40, insert the straw a good bit in to the top of the boot. Spray slowly until foam starts coming out the top. Seal the top of the boot with a zip tie. This will keep the adjuster from rusting. That's it your done.

Harley has been moving stuff around since 2000. They should be either under the seat or behind the triangular panel on the left side of the bike as far as I know.

Good Luck
Steve

check your flasher ...flasher sorted to ground

Time to check the firing timing and tuning of the fuel. you need to flowchart the method of timing the engine to the right timing angle. Also the fuel tuning must be redone which all requires tools and instruments to monitor and correct the settings.Clean and reset carb, check all port , clean the plugs, adjust the gaps and checck timing settings.

This is normally due to wrong setting or shifting of the igntion timing., You need to check out the firing angle and retune the engine.Also make sure that the preignition is not due to excess fuel flow , clogging within the exhaust- which also must be checked.

Check for the speed sensor above the gear box Remove the allen screw on the speed sensor and clean the speed sensor with a rag, as there surely filing on it... Hope this help.

If im rite its a CV carb.. great help at harleytalking.con ''' they have helped me....

I'm not sure what you mean by "engage the clutch". When some people say this, it means the clutch won't disengage the engine from the transmission. Others say it and it means that the clutch will not engage the engine and transmission and make the bike move. It's the same way with the term "backfire". To some that's a pop from the exhaust, to others is a spit back out fo the carburetor.

Now, if you took the handlebars off, you should have only has to move the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable. If you did not change any adjustment at the primary, you should only have to the adjuster in the middle of the cable to worry about. Make sure that the cable housing is seated in the adjusters like it should be. It they are out of the adjusters, it would may your clutch stay in the "pulled in " position and the clutch will not engage the engine and transmission.

Now, when you pull the clutch lever in,you should feel the resistance of the clutch. If not, the there is the possibility that the cable came disconnected in the primary case. This is rare but I have seen it happen before. To fix it, remove the outside derby cover and you should be able to reconnect the cable with the clutch release mechanism in the primary. If you need a drawing of this area, contact me directly at [email protected].

Good Luck
Steve

Contact me directly and I'll send you a trouble shooting guide for your turn signals. [email protected] Remind me of what you need.

Steve

To adjust the rear belt, first loosen the rear axle nut. Then loosen the lock nuts on the adjusters on the rear of the swing arm. Measure the lengths of the adjuster bolts of each adjuster. You want to move the wheel to the rear to apply more tension to the belt while keeping these two bolts as near the same length as possible. This keeps the rear wheel in alignment in the swing arm.

Now move the rear wheel back slowly by turning the nuts on the adjuster bolts a couple of "flats" at a time until you get the proper tension on the rear belt. Once you get it there, retorque the rear axle nut to 50-60 foot pounds.

the belt should be adjusted to have about a 1/2" deflection when a ten pound pressure is applied in the center of the lower run of the belt with the rider on the bike.

Good Luck
Steve

check your front and rear signal 'sockets" where the bulb goes in, check for rust or a bad connection shorting it out. If that's not the problem, chech the wires under the rear fender to see if you have a bare wire from rubbing on the tire when hitting potholes etc. I had the same problem on my 92 softail. hope this helps.

Follow this link for the best instructions with pics I have see so far:
http://linson.us/harleydavidson/sportsters/bertshowto/berts_how_tos_oilchange.htm

yes

According to the website here, you have a Sportster. To get the battery, first take the seat off. There's only one bolt at the very back of the seat that you need to take out to get the seat off. Remove the bolt, lift up on the rear of the seat and pull to the rear. seat is off.

Now, down by the battery, there is a strap that runs across the top of the battery cover. It is tightened by a nut on the right side of the battery. Loosen the nut until you can take the strap off. Remove the top and side cover off the battery. Disconnect the negative side of the battery first. You need either a long screwdriver or an extension with a 10 mm socket on it. Take the bolt out of the negative connector from the right hand side of the bike. Then use a 10mm wrench to remove the bolt from the positive side. Lift the battery out of the tray.

Now, you can recharge the battery yourself but I'd advise taking it to an automotive parts house and have it checked. They'll charge it and load test the battery. When you reinstall the battery in your bike, connect the positive terminal first and the negative terminal last. The rest you put together in reverse order. Good Luck!