Hi Yaniv perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your multimeter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe multimeter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up the multimeter to the battery set it to DC volts and start the engine if multimeter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With the multimeter set to the ohms scale, with one lead grounded, touch an alternator pin ohmmeter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the multimeter set on AC volts scale, both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
12. Check for excessive wattage load from headlight
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php/73168-F800-gs-electric-problem-s-o-s-can-t-resolve-HEEEEELLLLLPPPPP-!!! Battery keeps draining over night BMW F800GS K72 2008 to 2013 service repair manual Download Manuals... BMW Parts Microfische BMW 800 GS Rider Manual
There are no fuses on your bike. Are you sure that all the bulbs are working?? Check the front parking lamp, is it out??
Check all the lamps on the bike including turn signals etc. If indeed there are no lamps out, then there is some kind of problem with the ZFE which is the module that controls the lamps and other electrical loads on the bike.
Maybe time to check the stored trouble codes with dealer computer or a GS-911 scanner. Your bike is likely still under warranty??
A picture is worth 1000 words. Above links you to a schematic where you'll see your clutch assembly laid out. Look at the schematic, then come back and ask me specific questions before you vote. I'll be glad to walk you through it step by step.
If the 'white liquid' is like a froth then it is probably water & oil mixed. This happens when there is water in the oil or oil in the water. The usual cause is either the mechanical oil seal behind the water pump leaking or the head gasket leaking. As the right cylinder is covered in this, it is most likely to be the head gasket.
Otherwise it could be that the 'white liquid' is coming from a leaking radiator. If the cooling system is filled with this froth then it wont cool the engine properly.
Hope this helps. If it does then please mark this as 'useful')
You simply remove any rubber covering on the lever to expose the lever assembly. Remove its holding bolts/nuts. Disconnect the clutch-wire from the lever.
Put in new lever followed by other items you removed.