Top 20 2005 BMW R 1200 GS - Page 6 Questions & Answers

ABS - Anti-Lock Braking System And EBD -Electronic Brake-force Distribution In Plain English Posted by: Rohit Khurana March 1, 2010 in Automobile Technology AdvertisementCarBlogIndia Technology Articles , today I will talk of one of the most talked about safety feature called the ABS And EBD. Again I will try to keep the language simple and human understandable (which non-engineers can also make some sense of), pun intended. What Is ABS ? Anti-Lock braking System system or ABS is a safety system which prevents the wheels on a moving vehicle from locking up(or cease while rotating) while braking. ABS offers improved vehicle control over dry and especially slippery surfaces by reducing the braking distance but it can also increase the braking distance in case of loose surfaces like snow, gravel etc. Ever since the invention of ABS, it has been evolving and the recent systems not only prevent wheel locking but also electronically control the front-to-rear brake bias, which we know as Electronic brake force system, Traction control system, Emergency brake assist or Electronic stability control. Working Of ABS Advertisement When brakes are applied under heavy loads, the braking pressure becomes high resulting in heavy braking or in other words locking up of wheels. The ABS overcomes this by monitoring the wheel speed and releases pressure on each wheel brake lines in the form of rapid pulses switching between different brake lines. which prevent locking-up. Preventing lock-up under heavy braking helps the driver in maintaining control over the vehicle. In modern ABS an individual brake line is provided for each of the four wheel enabling different braking pressures for different road surfaces of the wheels. What Is EBD ? Electronic brake- force distribution system also called as Electronic brake-force limitation is an automobile brake technology that automatically varies the amount of force applied to each of a vehicle's brakes, based on road conditions, speed, loading, etc. EBD system is always coupled with anti-lock brake-force system. The most important function of EBD is to maintain vehicular control with variation in braking pressure applied to each wheel in order to maximize stopping power. Generally most of the weight of all vehicles is carried by the front end so the EBD ensures less braking pressure at the rear end to avoid skidding. But in some EBD's the distribution of braking pressure at the rear end is more initially when the brakes are applied before the effects of weight transfer comes into play. Working of EBD system An EBD is a subsystem of the abs and its function is to control the effective adhesion utilization by the rear wheels. this definition has been given by SAE in its technical paper no. #920646. Advertisement The Antilock brake force system releases pressure in different brake lines at the time of heavy braking to prevent locking-up. The action comes in the form of releasing pressure from the braking circuit when it detects extreme and rapid deceleration in any of the four wheels in order to make sure that the driver maintains control over the steering during panic or emergency braking. For example if the wheels of a vehicle are on snow as well as asphalt then in case of emergency braking the ABS will monitor the speeds and eventually the EBD system will release less pressure for wheels on snow and more pressure for wheels on asphalt to prevent wheel lock-up

find the carb and see where the cable pulls the linkage there is a screw that touches it , turn it in slightly ! if no linkage and it lifts from the carb top then there will a tickover screw in the side of throttle slide , turn it in to get tickover ! P..

replace

Sticking float valve

I am not directly familiar with the F800 but with my F650 the vin number is located in two places. 1. on the center post of the steering column toward the top but its hard too see. 2, on a frame cross piece under the seat. The engine number is located on the tor rear of the engine I believe, its often covered with dirt from the chain.

On a 1997 and 1998 BMW K1200RS gearbox oil should be inspected each 20,000km. Changing the oil is very easy, and shouldn't take more than a few minutes as it down't look like the side panels need to be removed. As for the lever sticking at 3rd gear, try lubricating the selector. If it is a more serious problem then you may need to rebuild your gearbox. However I would put up with the problem for as long as you can.

dirty or old fuel ! check plug ok and correct gap , if not sure replace !

Check your emergency engine stop switch on your handlebar

What do you mean by cross braces?

Sounds like your carb needs a service. Or maybe there is an air leak which is making the mixture too lean at idle, especially when the engine is hot. Also check that engine is not overheating.

you won't get dc current, will have to use rectifiers to convert ac to dc and cut out to limit it to 14volts

Had the same problem with my R80RT 1986 model .Suggest to drain the gearbox oil ,if it looks like metal flake paint then definitely bearings . In my case it was the output shaft rear bearing , I replaced all the bearings (except the main bearing on the input shaft because to replace this one requires replacing the shaft as well many dollars) my bike had done 275k K/m (170k miles)

ABS system normally checks battery voltage when starting and if voltage is low it will give a warning light. This may indicate your battery is discharged or faulty.

You need to set your valve clearances followed by throttle body balancing. Both are very important to reducing vibration.

1. check for a stone in the thread of the tyre.
2. Next check, When you hear the noise pull in the clutch and check if there is any change in the noise, this will indicate if the engine or gear box is involved.

Not wanting to be facetious but a workshop manual or googling how to do it would help as it is a long process. Every vehicle that I have owned I still have a workshop manual for as it the second thing I purchase after purchasing the vehicle (I still have a manual for my long gone 1946 AJS 350cc )

If a shot of WD-40 doesn't free it up, the switch needs to be replaced.

Hi there.im guessing your still battling with a rear brake caliper..1st un bolt and take the capliper off the disc ..2nd.fill the resevior up with fluid.leave the cap off the filler pot..3rd pump the rear brake pedal a couple times till u see the pistons in the caliper move..place a bit of wood in between the brake pads to stop the pistons popping out..pump the lever again a few times..if the caliper is to tight to put back on the disc..(not recommended) but prize the pistons appart with a spanner or flat screw driver..place the caliper bk on.top up fluid .put the filler cap bk on...to proper bleed it.take a 8 or 10 mill spanner.place on the caliper bleed nipple..place a rubber tube to the nipple.and drop the end into a jam jar with a little bit of fluid in .dip the end of the rubber tube into the fluid. .push down on the brake lever.and hold it down..whilst holding down the lever.undo the bleed nipple.u should see air bubbles come out in the jar of fluid..tighten the nipple back up.and release the lever..repeat the process till all theair bubbles have gone..fill up the filler pot.

Blue or black smoke?Blue oil burning (rings, valves)Black to rich, injector rails leaking, choke setting air intake blockage.