2004 BMW R 1150 GS Adventure - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Problem most likely lies with the Hall Sensor, located behind the alternator belt pulley on the crankshaft. Insulation on the wiring breaks down, causing them to fail and thus no spark.

Your throttle position sensor is either unplugged or faulty.

The fuel pump is controlled by the hall sensor on the front of the motor. If the pump is not working, the hall sensor could be faulty. However, it could also be a sign of the fuel pump itself failing.

If your bike is stalling as you put it in gear, the side stand switch is faulty. You can take them apart, clean them and reassemble and all should work fine again. If however may need to be replaced if it had made contact with the exhaust and possibly melted.

To change the battery, you have to remove the fuel tank. In doing so, you are disturbing the throttle cable on the RHS and pulling it out of its housing. This is what it should look like. And this what has happened when removing or replacing the fuel tank.

The main earth point to the motor is underneath the battery bracket. You will have to remove the battery and lift the bracket, which also holds the ABS pump, to properly access the earth point. However, your problem sounds more like a failing Hall Sensor. These often work fine while kept cool, but as soon as they start to overheat, as they would when stationary, the will start failing. Hall sensor is located behind the alternator pulley on the front of the motor.

Typical symptom of a failed Hall Sensor. Hall Sensor is located behind the Alternator belt pulley on the front of the motor.

It could be brake linings, ABS or anything to do with engine management. If you do not service the bike yourself, I would get it booked in for a service at your local BMW dealership. They usually lend a bike if you need one.
Hope that helps.

Yes you must use the clips.
Buy a workshop manual for the bike as they are invaluable.

Do you have spark? take out one plug,hold it against the engine with a non-conductive tool and crank the bike.If you have spark spray some gas into both chambers through the spark plug holes tighten them up and see if the bike will bark.If it does you have a fuel delivery problem,either the fuel pump will not bring the pressure up enough or the injectors are plugged (did you buy some gas somewhere out on a ride you don't normally stop at),or the ECM isn't telling the injectors to pulse. Go for the simplist thing first and that would be the fuel punp,this you can do yourself although you must know but now(like all us beamer owners) BMW stands for Break My Wallet.Nothing will be cheap so you just might want to take it in and have them do a diagnostic for you,and replace the parts yourself. This way they can make sure the ECM is 100% and narrow it down for you.I teach auto and this is what I had to do.Best of luck to you and let me know how you make out.

Hi Russ:

There is some adjustment at the threaded rod between the rear master cylinder and the brake pedal. Kinda hard to describe, but you loosen the locking nut and turn the rod a few turns to make it longer and raising the pedal...... BUT the brake switch is separate and too much adjustment will cause the ABS modulator pump to run... not a good thing. Basically, brake pedal height is non adjustable.... just have to get used to it.

Yes, the ABS pump runs whenever the brakes are applied. Your '04 1150GSA has the power assisted ABS brakes.

it's not hard to do if you have the tools and torque wrench needed for the job. with the bike on it's center stand, remove the exhaust, rear wheel and then the lever giving access to the bearing. installation of the lever is the hard part. you must tighten and secure the lever bolts properly for safety (get a manual for tightening procedure and torque specs). bleeding the clutch is easy, ensure you use the right fluid.

well, something is going on in the clutch hub, maybe the clutch rod bearing.

I have the same problem with my 2002 1150 (18,000 mi) I just bought last week. I roll it forward a bit as I put it in 1st from Neutral at a stand still. I don't know if that is the right this to do, but it works for me.

You have a shift fork going bad. Major repair. Sorry.

http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?fileid=066077087095095082049049053048071083032082101112097105114095077097110117097108095050048048048046112100102
It is the service manual - it will tell you all you need to know.

if you have determined the batt is good leads are tight electrolite (distilled water) level is ok the part to look at is the voltage regulator with the help of the stator and rotor(alternator) it charges the battery if you have no power coming out to charge the battery then the regulator is bad just replace it no authorized service needed just the part hope this helps please give us a rate have supplied 50 soulitions and only recived 8 votes

If the plates look burned... you need to replace them. Have you been slipping your clutch overmuch? Or clutching up into wheelies? You'll also need to check to see if the metal discs have either warped or blued. [i]Best done by a shop.[/b]