Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works at a time, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to the headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/106572-rear-brake-light-not-working.htmlhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGZmoGWowWchttp://www.mediafire.com/file/l8mk1291i3fiprh/2000_Harley_FXD_Servive_Manual.pdf/filehttp://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally
It sounds like a faulty switch but could also be wear, looseness and play in the shift drum, however if your shifting is normal it is likley the switch.
I had a problem like that with my Heritage Softail. I thought my starter had taken a crap on me. Turns out, the battery terminals were loose. I\'d get that first click... Then nothing! I tightened them up, charged the battery back up and haven\'t had a problem since. If that\'s not it, there\'s a good chance you have a dead short in the starter. Best I can do! Good luck, Bill
I don't know the term tickover. If you mean it idles to high then lower the idle. It's a carbed bike right? Idle screw is on backside near front of carb but remember these Twin cams run on oil volume not oil pressure. The bike needs to idle between 1000 - 1200 rpm to maintain proper oil circulation. If you turn the idle down to get that lope or potatoe sound from the bike you can starve the engine of oil and burn it up. These aren't throw away rice rockets of yesteryear.
It's most likely a seal on the back of the primary. If you decide to replace it, replace all the primary seals at the same time. It's cheap insurance, and you'll have it apart anyway!
Have you checked to see if the spark plugs might be longer then the ones you took out? If they are too long they can hit the top of the pistons and the electrodes can bend.
Jack up and support the bike with the front wheels off the ground. Yours might possibly be a different size but my 07' has a nut on the left side of the wheel that takes a 15/16" wrench. I would use a boxed end wrench or socket to avoid rounding off the nut.
On the bottom of the right side fork tube you will find two bolts holding a cap on. After loosening the nut on the left side of the wheel, loosen the bolts in the cap.
On the end of the axle you should find some holes that go through the axle. Use a long punch or rod that will fit inside the holes, using a twisting motion, pull the axle out. Make sure you remove the brake caliper before pulling the wheel.
no problem as long as you had oil in your bucket the engines fine..primary just lubes the drive chain and clutch.new plug and oil up to the bottom of your clutch basket and your good to go!
1
Remove the drain plug located under the clutch area of the primary chaincase and drain the chaincase lubricant into a catch pan. Remove all mounting bolts from the primary cover and slide the cover from its locating studs. Loosen the primary chain tensioner and inspect it for wear (this is a logical time to replace the tensioner shoe, since you are in the case).
2
Lock the primary chain where it enters the bottom of the clutch drum. Remove the engine sprocket nut and slide the compensator/sprocket assembly from the engine sprocket shaft. Slide the reluctor bowl off the engine sprocket shaft. Push the stator plug through the hole into the inner primary case. Remove the stator mounting bolts and slide the stator from its support boss. Remove the stator from the case.
3
Slide the new stator onto the support boss and orient it so that the stator wires are closest to the stator plug hole in the case. Install and torque the new stator bolts to factory specification (refer to manufacturer's torque sheet). Do not re-use the old bolts. The bolts come pre-treated with Loctite and are designed for one-time use. Insert the stator plug into the plug hole and snap it into place.
4
Slide the reluctor bowl onto the sprocket shaft and bottom it onto the shaft shoulder. Align the splines on the shaft and the compensator/sprocket assembly and slide the assembly into position. Install the engine sprocket nut and torque to factory specification for your model of Harley. Adjust the primary chain tensioner to factory specification.
5
Scrape the old primary gasket from the case. Harley Davidson gaskets are produced with a print-o-seal feature that melts and '"cooks" onto the case surface. Insure that all of the old gasket is removed from the machined surfaces. Use caution when scraping the gasket, as the cast-aluminum cases are easily gouged, leading to poor sealing and leaks. Install the fresh gasket onto the locating studs, followed by the primary chaincase cover. Torque the primary cover to the proper torque and in the recommended pattern according to the specification sheet for your model of Harley. Remove the inspection plate and add new chaincase lubricant. Replace the inspection cover gasket and re-install the inspection plate.
Here is a site that supposedly you can put your VIN number in and it'll tell you what it is. Or, you can do a search for "Harley Alphabet" or "Harley VIN numbers" to find several sites. Use the number stamped on your frame, not the engine number for identification purposes.
I'm afraid that your shifter pawl return spring is broken. I've seen this many times. It is not an easy or cheap repair. I requires that you pull the entire primary drive, the transmission shifting cam, and the transmission shafts to get the shifter pawl ahaft out. This is not a job for an amateur unless you have an exceptional mechanical ability. You really don't need any special tools that I can think of other than some torque wrenches. I would suggest that you purchase a service manual as this is a complicated repair for those that have never done this before.
