20 Most Recent 2000 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Is your air filter clean?

Follow the small black wire from your starter solenoid and it will lead right to it or should anyway.

Try replacing the right turn signal bulbs, both of them, one may have an internal short that you don't see.

There are two plugs on the bottom of the transmission, one for the engine oil, one for the tranny lube. The engine oil drain is the one that is closest to the left front corner of the oil pan. The other plug is the transmission.

The engine requires three quarts of oil, the tranny takes 20-24 ounces of oil.. Check the engine oil with the bike on the side stand. There are two marks on the dipstick. The upper mark is the "FULL HOT", the lower mark is the 'FULL COLD" mark. Keep the oil level between these two marks and do not overfill.

On the transmission, on the right side of the transmission, you'll see a chrome clutch release cover. It's behind the exhaust system. There is a plug that takes a 3/8" Allen or Hex key to remove. Check the oil level with the bike standing straight up.

As for what lubricants to use, I always use nothing but Harley-Davidson oil. 20W50 Syn 3 oil in the engine, transmission, and primary on 2000 and later model bikes. However, you can use other oils such as Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil, Motor Factory, and many others. Synthetic or petroleum based, your choice. Check the website of the manufacturer that you wish to use.

Good Luck
Steve

Instructions

1. Replacing the Alternator
   • 1 Remove the drain plug located under the clutch area of the primary chaincase and drain the chaincase lubricant into a catch pan. Remove all mounting bolts from the primary cover and slide the cover from its locating studs. Loosen the primary chain tensioner and inspect it for wear (this is a logical time to replace the tensioner shoe, since you are in the case).
   • 2 Lock the primary chain where it enters the bottom of the clutch drum. Remove the engine sprocket nut and slide the compensator/sprocket assembly from the engine sprocket shaft. Slide the reluctor bowl off the engine sprocket shaft. Push the stator plug through the hole into the inner primary case. Remove the stator mounting bolts and slide the stator from its support boss. Remove the stator from the case.
   • 3 Slide the new stator onto the support boss and orient it so that the stator wires are closest to the stator plug hole in the case. Install and torque the new stator bolts to factory specification (refer to manufacturer's torque sheet). Do not re-use the old bolts. The bolts come pre-treated with Loctite and are designed for one-time use. Insert the stator plug into the plug hole and snap it into place.
   • 4 Slide the reluctor bowl onto the sprocket shaft and bottom it onto the shaft shoulder. Align the splines on the shaft and the compensator/sprocket assembly and slide the assembly into position. Install the engine sprocket nut and torque to factory specification for your model of Harley. Adjust the primary chain tensioner to factory specification.
   • 5 Scrape the old primary gasket from the case. Harley Davidson gaskets are produced with a print-o-seal feature that melts and '"cooks" onto the case surface. Insure that all of the old gasket is removed from the machined surfaces. Use caution when scraping the gasket, as the cast-aluminum cases are easily gouged, leading to poor sealing and leaks. Install the fresh gasket onto the locating studs, followed by the primary chaincase cover. Torque the primary cover to the proper torque and in the recommended pattern according to the specification sheet for your model of Harley. Remove the inspection plate and add new chaincase lubricant. Replace the inspection cover gasket and re-install the inspection plate.

Jack up and support the bike with the front wheels off the ground. Yours might possibly be a different size but my 07' has a nut on the left side of the wheel that takes a 15/16" wrench. I would use a boxed end wrench or socket to avoid rounding off the nut. On the bottom of the right side fork tube you will find two bolts holding a cap on. After loosening the nut on the left side of the wheel, loosen the bolts in the cap. On the end of the axle you should find some holes that go through the axle. Use a long punch or rod that will fit inside the holes, using a twisting motion, pull the axle out. Make sure you remove the brake caliper before pulling the wheel.

Have you checked to see if the spark plugs might be longer then the ones you took out? If they are too long they can hit the top of the pistons and the electrodes can bend.

To get the best information you should go to www.hdforums.com. You will find some very friendly and helpful people on the site.

It could drag down a good battery, turn over slowly etc. Could not engage also if the drive is shot

It sounds like a faulty switch but could also be wear, looseness and play in the shift drum, however if your shifting is normal it is likley the switch.

I had a problem like that with my Heritage Softail. I thought my starter had taken a crap on me. Turns out, the battery terminals were loose. I\'d get that first click... Then nothing! I tightened them up, charged the battery back up and haven\'t had a problem since. If that\'s not it, there\'s a good chance you have a dead short in the starter. Best I can do! Good luck, Bill

For primary oil verify that lubricant level is even with the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring with the vehicle standing upright.

check air filter, Then fuel lines for fuel then spark plugs for spark?

I don't know the term tickover. If you mean it idles to high then lower the idle. It's a carbed bike right? Idle screw is on backside near front of carb but remember these Twin cams run on oil volume not oil pressure. The bike needs to idle between 1000 - 1200 rpm to maintain proper oil circulation. If you turn the idle down to get that lope or potatoe sound from the bike you can starve the engine of oil and burn it up. These aren't throw away rice rockets of yesteryear.