20 Most Recent 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Yes, if the do you need to replace them.

raise wheel of the ground. remove and support brake calipers, loosen axle cap nuts, remove axle nut, remove axle keeping note of where spacers come from etc. so you will not have them mixed up on installation. Also be sure you know how to porperly reinstall axle etc.

How do you know it is overheating??? What is the temperture???? Take some measurements with a ditital infra red thermometer gun and post some more info etc.

Clutch discs worn out, pressure plate burned/worn out, diaphragm spring damaged or retaining screws loose or clutch adjustment or cable adjustment way out or basket/hub wear or release mechanism defective, bound up.

Was there paint inside tank where cap is to clog fuel line?

Sounds like there is a bad or loose connection. Lots of things to consider like exposure to weather, moisture. I would start with the battery, check the condition and charge level, check connections, follow wires looking for damage, breaks. Check ignition switch connection, check handlebar switches and connections for corrosion, clean and lubricate Finally, it could be the starter, that can be pretty pricey so you may want to have the bike professionally diagnosed if you are still having problems, good luck

This isn't much to go on. Does it turn over? Is the key in the on position? Do you have gas? Did it start yesterday? Have you ever started it before?

In most cases, neither. Usually, the clutch release mechanism (push rod, ball/ramp, etc) doesn't wear a much as the clutch plates. So if anything, as the clutch plates wear, more slipping will be present (due the the pressure plate now putting less pressure on the plate stack-up). HOWEVER, the clutch cable can/will stretch, causing the clutch lever to "loosen" (more free play).

Wow, A 1993, thats a few years old and if it has some miles and some exposure to the weather over the years it could be any one of a number of things. With that said, I would go through a process of elimination starting with the easiest and most obvious first, the battery, if you are sure it is good then the next possible culprit would be both battery leads positive and negative, make sure both connections are tight and clean, check the neg lead from the battery to the frame make sure that is clean and tight also. if all checks out there then look at your switch, this area is exposed to the weather and can corrode, check fuses for corrosion and if all of that checks out it could be the starter, those do go bad but before you pull it out check the wires connected to the starter. This is a very condensed check list, your problem could be more in-depth, if all of the listed items seem fine then I would recommend seeing a professional, good luck to you.

Just twist the throttle (LOL)! Assuming you have EFI and you are talking about changing the rev limit you will need a laptop, screaming eagle race tuner software and the connector block unique for your bike. These can be bought online or at your local H-D dealer. You can then change many parameters, including air/fuel ratio at particular rpm's as well as the rev limiter setting. There are other ways to do this, but this it what the manufacturer recommends. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_1f7d1c330c9dd97d

make sure you have a good ground

It's your low idle speed idle control valve

have the carb and tank cleaned and replace fuel if older than 5mths !

First thing that comes to mind, check tension on rear drive belt.

Check fuse ! If OK then wiring harness that runs up under dash for loose connection(s). Unplug the harness at tank entry and check to see if there is 12V there when the ignition is on, if not the fuel system safety cutoff is the likely culprit. If there is, it's time for a new fuel pump. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_1f7d1c330c9dd97d

No all you have to do is slide covers up and cut them with bolt cutters then replace with adjustable type push rods.

Check to see if a piece of the chain tensioner broke off and is plugging and oil port or line.

The ABS light should stay on until you reach a speed of about 3 MPH or higher. Did you check for error codes? 1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run. 2- Push odometer reset button in & hold. 3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear. 4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing. 5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.) P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted) S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module) SP = speedometer T = tachometer 6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist. 7 - Record the codes. 8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed. NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear. 9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module. 10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF. On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected. "No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure. Also if the code set is a historic code (not a constant light) after 50 start and run cycles of at least 30 seconds each in duration, the light will extinguish itself as long as the error hasn't occurred again. If it were a current code, the light would remain lit while running. If you clear the error code (step #8), the light SHOULD reset.

The same thing just happen to me and a friend of mine on our 2001 Road Kings. I am 95% sure your problem is the crank position sensor. We replace ours and the bikes are back to their glory.

Oil has nothing to do with it. That guy must sell ams oil or something..anyway its your temp sensor on your bike. change it out. You guys running injected correct?