20 Most Recent 2000 Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Loosen the two bolts that hold the master cylinder onto the handlebars and make sure the master cylinder is all the way back against the throttle control switch housing. If that doesn't fix the problem, you'll need to open the throttle control switch housing and replace the switch. It sticks out of the switch housing right in the front where the brake lever is.

Not sure which "fork caps" you're talking about. In mechanics, so many people call different things by different names it's sometimes difficult to figure out what they are talking about.

Anyway, if you're talking about the large fork caps that at the upper triple tree, there is not specific torque, just snug. I wouldn't overtighten them due to there very thin profile and rounded corners on some.

If you're talking about the cap that screws directly into the upper fork tube, there again, no specific torque, just snug. If you tighten either of these caps too tightly, you could encounter problems with removal in the future.

If you are talking about the fork cap at the axle, the nuts torque to 12-15 foot pounds.

I'm sorry but I don't quite understand what the problem is. If the engine is not turning over when you press the starter button, check the battery first. Take it to an automotive parts house. They can test the battery under a load.

If the engine is turning over but won't start, make sure the "Run/Stop" switch is in the "Run" position, Pull the choke out and leave the throttle completely closed and press the button. If it still doesn't start, Check for fuel getting to the engine and check for spark.

There were several issues with the first year Twin Cam engine and I think your bike was one of the first to get the engine. You may need to check the compression on your engine. Harley has some issues with the camshaft drive sprocket and the bearings early on. I think your engine is also equipped with a compression sensor. If the engine does not have compression, it will not have any spark either. If you take the plugs out, you cannot check the spark the way you used to be able to do. If you wish to check for spark, unplug the wires from the spark plugs in the engine and plug another set of spark plugs into the wires. You should be able to see the spark that way. Do the test again using the plugs that was in the engine to check the spark plugs.

If you find out anything more and it still won't start, repost with the new information and we'll have another go at the problem. Good Luck!

Try www.bikebandit.com
They have some pictures.

Install a set of colder spark plugs and burn only premium gas. Set the carbs for a rich the fuel mix also. Worst case, pull the heads and de-carbon the heads and top of the pistons.

If you have power going to the coil but no spark, you've got something wrong with the "triggering" circuit of you ignition system.

One other thing, if your engine is the TC88 engine, (first year of production for some models) it probably has a "compression sensor" on it. If you have no compression, you will not have any spark. If you have your plugs out of the engine, you have no compression. So, screw a set of plugs into the engine, leave another set in the wires and grounded against the engine to test the spark.

The "triggering system" uses the signal from the ignition timing sensor that is located in the "nose cone" of the engine. Check this wiring from the ignition unit's "Black box" to the sensor. I seem to remember a plug that plugs in for this unit.

I'm afraid that this is about the only help I can give you with a stock ignition unit as I usually work with either earlier igniton systems or aftermarket units. I have very little experience with "stock" Harley units.

Code 16 indicates that the ECM has seen a battery voltage of less than 6.2 vdc or higher than 15.5 vdc. The most common cause of this is loose or dirty battery cables or shorted rectifier.
To access codes, turn the ignition switch on for about 3 seconds (one second after the fuel pump stops running) then turn the ignition switch off for three seconds. Repeat the above procedure. Then turn the ignition switch on again and about 8 seconds later the codes will start to flash through the check engine light.
If there are no codes present or there is a code and it does not appear again the code will clear its self in 50 start/run cycles. (Start/run cycle is defined as engine running for at least 30 seconds and off for at least 10 seconds.)

Although I don't do fuel injected bikes, if it were a carbed bike, I would say that you would probably have to rejet the carb when you changed the air filter to a free flowing model. The same applies to a fuel injected model too, I would suspect. But, it may be within the "range" of the onboard computer you have. Take it by a shop and ask if the fuel map can be changed to accommodate the K&N Filter.

Hoses are very cheap just replace them for less than $20.
Aftermarket shocks are quite costly!!!

www.wikipedia.org

You have 4 spelling errors in your post.

A+ ain't going to happen.

I would change the coil first sence they are cheeper than the ECM.

Jireh Cycles can provide. www.jirehcycle.com

got to bike bandit .com

This is a common item. Air temp sensor could be a little tired and or dirty injectors. IAC motor may also be the culprit.

On my 2000 flhrci, if you remove the air filter you can see the wheel.

The cable that comes over the top is the decel cable or return and the one that comes across the bottom of the wheel is the accelerator. To replace I simply removed the two bolts on the front of the gas tank and raised it about an inch and was able to easily snake the replacement cable through the original location and hook it up to the wheel. Once connected, then connected the throttle side.

The hardest part of the cable change IMO was getting the dellerator side at the throttle to go on after installing the accellorator side. I would have sworn that there was not enough play in the cable to actually go back on, but after working with it for about 10 minutes I was able to manuever it on and it works fine.

If it is coming out from where the caliper halves meet then it sounds like the wrong bolts have been loosened & the seals have slipped on tightening
If its coming out from around the pistons then the caliper seals need replacing & poss. the pistons too
Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

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Is your rear rotor warped? if the rotor is warped it will push the pads out causing you to have to pump them to stop.Remember the dot 5 is aeroscopic. if you shake or drop the bottle of fluid, you cannot use it for at least 24 hours. it will continue to create air in itself for that long. so even if you bleed the system correctly it will continue to introduce air into the system. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

possible issues will be intake, sparks, compression, timing and most of all mixture.

please have you bike tuned up in these areas and you will have those issues solved

I suspect your ground wire from the battery to your frame needs some attention...If it's too hard to get to then make another one .add it onto the battery negative side and ground it to a bolt in the frame...your motor is rubber mounted so not the best ground OK? Ithink you will be happy w/this solution...Good Luck to you my friend...Tim

The problem is an air leak leaning the fuel mix. The idle speed starts going up a ramp until it is wide open. The valves no longer seating well is a possible cause as is air manifold gaskets, rings and a cylinder head not torqued down tight.