20 Most Recent 2000 Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Sorry I do not recognize these codes, check with a Harlet dealership.

There are two types of diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), current and historic. The Check Engine Lamp will not indicate the existence of historic trouble codes.1 Current 53 ECM flash error 2 Historic 53 ECM flash error 3 Current 54 ECM EEPROM error 4 Historic 54 ECM EEPROM error 5 Current 63 ECM serial data low 6 Current 63 ECM serial data open/high 7 Current 63 TSSM serial data low 8 Current 63 TSSM serial data open/high 9 Current 61 Loss of TSM/TSSM serial data 10 Current 14 Loss of all ECM serial data (state of health)10 24 Loss of vehicle speed10 33 Loss of vehicle inhibit motion10 43 Loss of powertrain security status11 Current 33 System relay contacts open 12 Current 33 System relay coil high/shorted 13 Current 33 System relay coil open/low 14 Current 33 System relay contacts closed 15 Current 99 Incorrect password 16 Current 99 Missing password 17 Current 41 CKP sensor intermittent 18 Current 41 CKP sensor synch error 19 Current 11 TP sensor open/low 20 Current 11 TP sensor high 21 Current 12 MAP sensor open/low 22 Current 12 MAP sensor high 23 Current 14 ET sensor voltage low 24 Current 14 ET sensor open/high 25 Current 15 IAT sensor voltage low 26 Current 15 IAT sensor open/high 27 Current 24 Front ignition coil open/low 28 Current 25 Rear ignition coil open/low 29 Current 24 Front ignition coil high/shorted 30 Current 25 Rear ignition coil high/shorted 31 Current 24 Front cylinder combustion intermittent 32 Current 25 Rear cylinder combustion intermittent 33 Current 23 Front injector open/low 34 Current 32 Rear injector open/low 35 Current 23 Front injector high 36 Current 32 Rear injector high 37 Current 16 Battery voltage low 38 Current 16 Battery voltage high 39 Current 43 VSS sensor low 40 Current 43 VSS sensor high 41 Current N/A (no speedo code for this) Check engine light open/low NO CHECK ENGINE LAMP AT KEY ON or CHECK ENGINE LAMP ON CONTINUOUSLY42 Current N/A (no speedo code for this) Check engine light high NO CHECK ENGINE LAMP AT KEY ON43 Current 35 Tachometer low 44 Current 35 Tachometer high 45 Current 25 Rear cylinder no combustion 46 Current 24 Front cylinder no combustion 47 Current 34 Loss of idle speed control IDLE AIR CONTROL48 Current 35 Accelerometer fault 49 Current 34 Starter output high 50 Current 25 Ignition enable output high 51 Current 21 Left turn output fault 52 Current 22 Right turn output fault 53 Current 11 Battery voltage high 54 Current 31 Alarm output low55 Current 32 Alarm output high56 Current 41 Ignition switch open/low 57 Historic 63 ECM serial data low 58 Historic 63 ECM serial data open/high 59 Historic 63 TSSM serial data low 60 Historic 63 TSSM serial data open/high 61 Historic 61 Loss of TSM/TSSM serial data 62 Historic 14 Loss of all ECM serial data (state of health)63 Historic 33 System relay contacts open 64 Historic 33 System relay coil high/shorted 65 Historic 33 System relay coil open/low 66 Historic 33 System relay contacts closed 67 Historic 99 Incorrect password 68 Historic 99 Missing password 69 Historic 41 CKP sensor intermittent 70 Historic 41 CKP sensor synch error71 Historic 11 TP sensor open/low 72 Historic 11 TP sensor high73 Historic 12 MAP sensor open/low74 Historic 12 MAP sensor high 75 Historic 14 ET sensor voltage low 76 Historic 14 ET sensor open/high 77 Historic 15 IAT sensor voltage low 78 Historic 15 IAT sensor open/high 79 Historic 24 Front ignition coil open/low 80 Historic 25 Rear ignition coil open/low 81 Historic 24 Front ignition coil high/shorted 82 Historic 25 Rear ignition coil high/shorted 83 Historic 24 Front cylinder combustion intermittent84 Historic 25 Rear cylinder combustion intermittent 85 Historic 23 Front injector open/low 86 Historic 32 Rear injector open/low 87 Historic 23 Front injector high 88 Historic 32 Rear injector high 89 Historic 16 Battery voltage low90 Historic 16 Battery voltage high 91 Historic 43 VSS sensor low 92 Historic 43 VSS sensor high 93 Historic N/A Check engine light open/low NO CHECK ENGINE LAMP AT KEY ON or CHECK ENGINE LAMP ON CONTINUOUSLY94 Historic N/A Check engine light high NO CHECK ENGINE LAMP AT KEY ON95 Historic 35 Tachometer low 96 Historic 35 Tachometer high 97 Historic 25 Rear cylinder no combustion 98 Historic 24 Front cylinder no combustion 99 Historic 34 Loss of idle speed control 100 Historic 35 Accelerometer fault 101 Historic 34 Starter output high 102 Historic 25 Ignition enable output high 103 Historic 21 Left turn output fault 104 Historic 22 Right turn output fault 105 Historic 11 Battery voltage high 106 Historic 31 Alarm output low107 Historic 32 Alarm output high108 Historic 41 Ignition switch open/low

Awesome question. I suggest you carry a 1/4 ratchet set (mm or SAE, whichever your bike uses) A good quality screwdriver, I suggest one that has Phillips on one side, straight on the other, they're handy because you can flip the heads around for big or small AND they act as a nut driver with the heads out. A good pliers, needle nose and an adjustable "monkey wrench". Spend a little more on these tools, rarely used but when you need them you can't trust cheap stuff. I'd also carry a small roll of duct tape, a spool of heavy duty wire, some latex gloves and small bottle of hand cleaner. An extra bulb or two, fuses, if you have room a can of fix a flat can be a life saver. Hide a spare key, some basic first aid stuff. When my wife started driving her own bike we spent an afternoon practicing some "what ifs", and went through some basics like changing bulbs and fuses.

You have a bad bulb.

www.officalharleyparts.com

most likely caused by cylinder blow-by. Run a compression test and this will tell you. Unseated or broken compression rings on the piston will cause this.

One thing to check, pull your air cleaner cover & filter (if stock setup) start the bike and see if the rocker box breathers are blowing out air like they should, I have seen where people have put too much thread locker or silicone sealer and blocked off the breather fittings in the rocker boxes, when those pistons come down that pressure has to go out somewhere. It could be a stuck oil pressure relief valve in the cam plate. Also, check your oil after an oil change, about 100-150 miles. If it's really dark from that short time, you might be getting compression blowing by your rings. You didn't give your mileage, but a 14 year old engine might be about ready for a ring job.

Is the idle speed too low? Unfortunately, if it is, with fuel injection you'll have to go to a dealership that they can "plug in" their equipment to adjust the idle.

It dies only when you accelerate from idle?

Yeah, so what's your problem?

As you are turning the key to unlock it, try gently turning the forks first one way then the other to try and relieve pressure form the locking pin.

to me it sounds like it might need some spark plugs put in

i don't understand nerd language, soz pal

Harley Davidson Formua + or Syn 3. Amsoil makes a good trans oil also.

get some new fuel lines and some hose clamps, remove old and install
new.

I have a 99 FLHT. The issues are the same with finding neutral. This was because of a gear design change in the tranny to supposedly make the trans quieter.
So that said, do this, while in 1st, clutch pulled in, rev (blip throttle) motor slightly with upwards pressure on the shift lever. This blip breaks the friction between the plates in the clutch pack taking the pressure off the trans gears which helps get it into neutral.
BTW, this issue was present in my 1990 Softail as well, what worked then still works now.

Depends on a dozen things. If you follow this rule, you will not go far wrong: "If in doubt, throw it out - replace it".

I don't think I would be taking any chances on breaking down away from home when you can replace this belt for relatively little $. Between it's apparent age (12 years ) and the miles on the belt (26,000) ... I would replace it.

Of course, you can ask the pros at your local Harley shop for their opinion. My bet is they will say Replace It.

Thank you for your question @ FixYa.com

The first thing to do is have the battery tested. Take it out and take somewhere that can do a "load test" on the battery. Just because the voltmeter says it has 12 volts, that doesn't mean that it has that much when a load is put on the battery. You could have a shorted cell in it.

Next, if it sounds like an air impact in that it is engaging, disengaging, and doing it all over again, it sounds like the hold in coil is bad. You could take the starter out and take it to a dealer and have them check it or if there's a starter repair shop close by they could check it out. More than likely, if the dealer was doing the job, he'd simply replace the starter if the battery is good.

To remove the starter, disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and remove the primary cover. Take the small bolt out of the starter jackshaft and remove the jackshaft. Sometimes I've seen it where you had to take the snap ring out of the center of the clutch and loosen the clutch nut so that it could slip outward just a bit. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS ON IT. When you take the jackshaft out, there is a coupling on it. Make sure you mark which way it comes out so you can get it back in the same way.

Now, on the other side, remove the exhaust system and anything else that may be in the way of getting the starter off. There are two large bolts that hold the starter in. Remove these two bolts and the battery cable and the starter will come free.

Good luck
Steve

Id replace the O ring & check areas for burs & sand..

Due to EPA regulations, since 1985 Harley-Davidson had to move their crankcase breather tube to the air cleaner. The crankcase vented air had to be "recycled" through the engine. As a result, a fine mist of oil in the vented crankcase air condenses in the air cleaner and must be cleaned out from time to time. A lot of riders are purchasing "relocation" kits to change the location of the vented air. These kits are available from Kuryakyn and Custom Chrome.

Good Luck
Steve