20 Most Recent 1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Deluxe Questions & Answers

On the right side of the engine is a large plug that takes an Allen wrench or Hex Key to remove. This is the timing hole. Take the plug out and you can see the flywheel inside the case. There are marks on the flywheel that you should be able to see through the hole with the engine running by using a strobe light. I've never had to set or recheck the timing on a Sportster engine of this late a model so I'm going to tell you what the marks look like from my experiences with earlier bikes. The Top Dead Center mark is usually a vertical line and the Front Cylinder Advanced Timing mark usually looks like two dots side by side. Harley changes the marks from time to time so this may not be correct. Note that there is a lot of crankcase pressure that blows out of this hole with the engine running. DO NOT GET YOUR EYES TOO CLOSE TO THE HOLE IF YOU DO THIS WITHOUT THE CLEAR PLASTIC TIMING PLUG IN PLACE. It will fill you eyes with an oil mist and it hurts. Believe me, it hurts.

You'll need an automotive type inductive timing light. Connect the pickup lead to the front spark plug wire and the power leads to a battery. Start the engine and make sure it's idling at about 1100 RPM. Shine the light in the hole and look for the marks. If you do not see the marks you'll have to remove the plate from the timer cavity on the right side of the engine. Loosen the two stancion screws that hold the plate and rotate the plate either clockwise to advance the timing or counterclockwise to ****** the timing until you see the marks in the hole. If your timer cavity plate has rivets in it, you'll have to cut the heads off of them with a drill bit to get the plate off. If you replace the rivets, you MUST use original H-D rivets. Regular rivets will not work as the ends that pop off will fall into the timer cavity and damage the ignition system.

I would highly recommend that you have this done by someone who is experienced in doing this. Watch how it's done and learn from them. If you get the timing too far off, it can be very frustrating trying to get it back right as its difficult to determine which way and how much to move the timing plate. It's a very sensitive adjustment.

Good Luck
Steve

harley recomends that you use their oil but i would be carefull because it is a cynthetic now if you were using regular oil what that will do is clean all the old build up out of the motor this can be bad because after time there are pin hole leaks that occure but the build up stops it from leaking but if you use cynthetic you cant go back to regular oil it will gum up on you and ruen your motor so you got to find out what has been put in it. but use a 10-30

20W50 weight oil in your Sportster for average temperature climates.

Good Luck
Steve

remove the float bowl screws and take the cover off

It's more likely that your battery terminals are dirty or have become loose. Clean and check your battery terminals. If I recall correctly (I had a 1993 Sportster as well years ago), I had that happen a few times. Best of luck to you!

The 3 wire is a running light/turn signal combo. On the three wire you have neutral, turn sig hot and running light hot. If you want the two wire bullet light to be a turn sig, you will have to hook up the neutral/ ground and the turn sig hot. The running light hot will be capped. If you want the bullet light to be both a turn sig and a running light you will have to buy an aftermarket product to regulate the power to the lights.

Go to this site http://www.bikebandit.com Choose OEM parts and locate your bike and go to wheels and brakes. The brake caliper bracket acts as the spacer on one side and the axle spacer goes on the other side. There may be two small "spacers" that are actually inner races for the wheel bearing seals to ride on in both sides of the wheel.

Good Luck
Steve

If you'll contact me directly, I can send you a wiring diagram for your Sportster. This forum will only allow for a 150Kb file transfer. The wiring diagram is much larger than that. Contact me at [email protected] and remind me of what you need.

Steve

Contact me directly at [email protected]. I'll send you a JPEG file, like a pircture, of the way the cams install. This forum limits me to a file size of 450Kb and that's too small. That's why I have people contact me directly. Please remind me of what you need.

Steve

Is the crack in the cylinder or the head? Most of the mounting bolts screw into the head as best as I can remember. At any rate, you can pull the barrel or head off and have it welded up and retap the hole provided no oil or compression is leaking out of it. Otherwise you're looking at buying another new or used component. As for the cost, I don't have any idea.

Good Luck
steve

I'll give you a wiring diagram if you'll contact me directly at [email protected]. The file is too large to send via this forum. They limit the file size to 150Kb. Please remind me of what you want as I get lots of requests and I can't remember who wants what.

Ride Safe
Steve