1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

broken power supply wire bad fuse or resister block or flasher relay switch or turn switch are ground wire ok . there was not a power surge and took out all the bulbs ?

CHANGE THE BLINKER RELAY OR ADD ONE IN THE GROUND WIRE.

IF YOU HAVE POWER GOING TO THE LIGHT, CHECK THE GROUNDWIRE

Ask your buddy to bring over the two coils he got for you.

It depends on the kit you used to increase the engine size. You cannot simply bore the jugs and put stock 1200 cc pistons in them and then use your original 883 heads. Now, the question is who made the kit and was it designed to be used with unaltered 883 heads.

The problem arises for the smaller combustion chamber of the 883 head compared to the 1200 head. The 1200 head has a much larger combustion chamber resulting in a stock compression ratio of about 9.4 to 1 or thereabouts. If you use stock 1200 piston with an 883 head, your compression ratio will be approximately 12 to l so I've been told. I've never done that. Now, every time I've ever converted an 883 to 1200 and used the original heads, I've always used Weisco pistons designed for that specific application. So, the point is that you may have too much static compression on the engine.

There is another problem that could be causing this as well, vibration. Your older Sporty does not have the rubber mounted engine, therefore your battery is subjected to a lot more vibration. Also, since you've changed the pistons in your engine, your rotating assembly may not be balanced as well as it should be increasing the vibration.

Now, I usually tell people that the average battery life is about two years due to the vibration problem and heat. I have lots of friends that buy a new battery every two years just so they don't get left stranded.

Whenever buying a new battery, always get the highest cold cranking amps (CCA) that you can find and keep a battery tender on it all the time. This will increase your battery life as much as possible.

Good Luck
Steve

Neutral switch would be on the transmission at the top

What lights doe it flash and will your PIN work? You may have a weak fob battery.

Sorry but my expertise and knowledge does not go back that far, on newer bikes you would press in both turn signal switches at the same time and ten release them simultaneously as well. Please post the answer as a comment when you find it. Thanks

Need a better description of what you want to know

There will be a lighting fuse or relay but I am not sure where unless in the left side panel or under the seat, more likely under the side panel. A fuse is not likely to be intermittent. A relay could be. Otherwise it is likely a broken wire or a loose or corroded connection. If it was the ignition switch you could expect the engine to quit at the same time. It could also be the headlight switch but these will all require individual inspection and diagnosis. Check not just the power swide of the circuit but also the ground as a poor, loose or otherwsie intermittent headlight ground will do the same thing as a power side of the circuit problem.

First check your oil level. You could have too much oil in the system. You could also have a plugged breather system and pressurized oil system, crankcase and oil tank. If you have an air filter/breather system with rubber tubes that end over the open intake area of the induction module in behind the air cleaner, sometimes people think they should not be positioned like that and bend them back and tuck them into bolt hole areas/openings in the filter backing plate casting underneath the breather tubes look like they should have the tube ends inserted into them and it the tubes are indeed bent back and the ends inserted so, this will close the tubes off and pressurize the engine internally and the oil tank and the pressure buildup will then blow the filler plug and dipstick out of the oil tank.

First check the main fuse. Then check that the battery is hooked up corredctly and both posts and cables are clean and tight.

Just wiring

You are possibly using low grade fuel and/or your timing could also be out.

Fitment for 1999 XL Tubeless Cast Wheels:

Wheel Position and size = 19 inch Front; Rim Size and Contour = T19x 2.15 MT; Rim Valve Hole Diameter = 0.45 inch; Tire Size = Dunlop D401 ELITE S/T 100/90-19

Wheel Position and size = 16 inch Rear; Rim Size and Contour = T16 x 3.00 D; Rim Valve Hole Diameter = 0.35 inch Tire Size = Dunlop D401 ELITE S/T 130/90-16

Wheel Position and size = 19 Inch Front; Rim Size and Contour = T19x2.50 TLA; Rim Valve Hole Diameter = 0.45 inch Tire Size = Dunlop K591 S&FR Elite SP 100/90-V19

Wheel Position and size = 16 Inch Rear; Rim Size and Contour = T16x3.00 D; Rim Valve Hole Diameter = 0.45 inch Tire Size = Dunlop K591 S&FR Elite SP 130/90-V16

Tire Fitment for 1999 XL Tube Laced Wheels:

Wheel Position and size = 19 Inch Front; Rim Size and Contour = T19x2.50 TLA; Tube Size = MJ90-19 Tire Size = Dunlop D401 ELITE S/T 100/90-19

Wheel Position and size = 16 Inch Rear; Rim Size and Contour = T16 x 3.00 D ; Tube Size = MT90-16; Tire Size = Dunlop D401 ELITE S/T 130/90-16

Wheel Position and size = 21 Inch Front; Rim Size and Contour = T21x215 TLA; Tube Size = 3.00 x 21; Tire Size = Dunlop Touring ELITE II MH90 - 21 56H

Wheel Position and size = 16 inch Rear; Rim Size and Contour = T16x 3.00 D; Tube Size = MT90-16; Tire Size = Dunlop Touring ELITE II MT90 - B16

Tire Pressure - All Models:

Cold up to 300 Lb. Load (includes rider, passenger and cargo)

Front = 30 psi (2.1 bar)

Rear = 36 psi (2.5 bar)

Up to GVWR maximum load

Front = 30 psi (2.1 bar)

Rear = 40 psi (2.8 bar)

right near 3.5 quarts with new filter

Sounds like pressure plate issues

maybe locked by a nut, loosen nut

20 w 50

if you origionaly started running on one cylinder that's promising sounds like it your timing also check your magnito.... lisa