1982 Suzuki GSX 400 FS impulse - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Not worth it
Short ignition wires then screwdriver over starter better to order keys at bike shop serial number and number on key lock

Look on eBay or check at the riders club site ... http://www.suzukiownersclub.org/usa/

If you fit a pod filter, or take the lid off the air box, you are allowing more air into the engine. Therefore, you must also allow more fuel to mix with the air. To do this, you must increase the jet size in the carburator. I recommend Dyno Jet brand jet kits. They will have all the parts necessary as well as tuning guidelines to follow.

Google " motorcycle salvage suzuki " and see what you can find. Also try www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

and www.banditbikes.com

yes the fuses should be next to bat under a rubber cover

Hi and welcome to the site,

Initially, have the battery load tested.

Offhand, temporarily jumper the 2 big terminals of the starter relay. If the starter motor spins, then a faulty starter relay. To locate the starter relay, follow the cable from the battery's + terminal.

If even jumping the 2 terminals, the starter motor would not turn, either:

• starter motor has issues more particularly the carbon brushes and/or the commutator segments; or
• the battery is no longer able to hold sufficient charge.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

make sure all conections are fine + to + and - to - and than check all your fuses to me it sounds like your positive side is grounding itself somewhere you just got to check all the positive cables and makes sure there not touching ground than I would start to look at your voltage regulator as they tend to go bad on older bikes but make sure you check all your fuses first

no more then 2 amps rated for charger

most chargers Amp meter

will read zero when battery fully charged

and high current if battery not taking charge is shortted out

should check why battery not holding charge

Why? You will only change a system that has been designed to work without an oil cooler. What do you hope to achieve? Is your bike running too hot?
Save your money and spend it on your next bike, not in making zero-input mods where they are not needed.

when you say, "just drains the power", do you mean it kills the battery trying to start? when its turning over and over and not starting, did you take the plugs out and see if they are wet with fuel?

cables too tight , poor lubrication of choke and or throttle cable

Depending on how aggressively you ride, chains should be inspected every 500-700 miles, or roughly twice a month

Yep, its somewhat normal. Your crankcase ventilation tube connects to the back of the airbox. There is a small foam to dampen the airflow and remove the droplets from the flow - but other than that the crankcase is connected to the airbox. Now the good question is that what amount is normal, i.e. under what conditions there may be excessive amounts of oil generating so much positive pressure to crankcase that the oil becomes clearly visible in airbox... one reason may be too high oil level to start with ? Other reasons may relate to some kind of piston blowby - like rings glued into the piston? Also it is sometimes possible that PAIR lets air to move back to the airbox - but have not seen that happening in a busa, just in a car. In that case rather than oil its black carbon residue which feels a bit oil'ish. You can test the crancase pressure by removing the hose from the back of the airbox and feel the pressure when engine is running. It should not be blowing air out - but some pressure, or more like pulses will be felt. (Its so long time when I have last done this test, so maybe someone could describe this better...) Anyway this reminded me about the fact that in cars there is often a PCV valve, positive crankcase ventilation valve. I am just wondering why we dont have that in busa ? The performance related desire to have negative crankcase pressure surely is not the reason...

hi chotzzz; welcome to the forum! if u want urgent pls go through the ebay... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUZUKI-GSXR-400-R-GK71-IGNITION-PICK-UP-COILS-1984-/380216469092

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=repair+manual+for+1986+Suzuki+cavalcade+gv1400