Top 20 1980 Suzuki GS 750 L Questions & Answers

Yes it will work you might have a different design which I doubt but the function will be the same

Do you know where it is located? Have you had issues with it, as in dead and let to freeze, acid spilled out onto the bike from being frozen or overcharged etc? If so mix up some baking soda and water and pour over connections and frame then wash off bike before swapping battery. Take off negative first and put back on last, just like with a car battery. If wet cell, fill to proper level and charge first on 1A or smaller charger for a day... If GSM or Gel, install and ride.

5th gear sluggish i run into alot of this sluggish at different rpm or speeds and almost always its in the synchrenation of the carbs what happens is one of the carbs is bacically hesitating clean and synch the carbs alot of techs overlook this this is a huge major factor in performance and immediate rite now throttle and engine responce

Have you looked inside the clutch case ? check the clutch is releasing , check the keyway on the crank cog hasnt snapped that drives the clutch etc !

This is a bit vague.. If engine is running an you select a gear but nothing.. I would look to the drive between the crank and gearbox.. this goes via the clutch and could be the issue.. This sounds dumb but check the obvious.. start at the back wheel and work back.. check chain and front sprocket.. then ensure you can select gears and then clutch and primary drive..

Any modifications to the air box will cause mixture changes. You may need to re jet the carburetors to compensate.

Sticking or badly adjusted float valve in one or more of the carbs...be careful when turning it over until sorted as may cause hydraulic lock.

sounds like the clutch push rod is bent and the seal has more pressure on one side so leaking ! pull rod out and see if it can be straightened , if not then replace it and the seal !

how long you letting it idle and not moving down the road ? its air cooled that needs movement to cool the engine ! another problem i once had was that after i polished the side casings to make it look good in a chopper style bike it overheated quicker than before , just a thought ! is yours std ? any more info you got ??

Because, when fuel burns it creates heat even at idle. Also there is no airflow to remove the heat generated.

Chances are that synchronizing and balancing the carbs will do the trick. Have a dealer do the job. This is best done by trained mechanics.

!980 gS750l HAS A SCREW HEAD TYPE PETCOCK. IT LOOKS LIKE THE LEVEL IS MISSING BUT THAT IS THE STOCK PIECE. TWO SCREWS HOLD THE PETCOCK TO THE TANK. REMOVE THOSE AND THE PETCOCK BASICALLY FALLS OFF. YOUR NEW ONE SHOUILD HAVE AT LEAST THE SAME BASE WITH THE SAME DISTANCE BETWEEN THE SCREW HOLES.

NEVER jump a motorcycle with a car, there is no telling what you fried on the bike. You are lucky the ecm is not toast along with the rectifier and other electrical componets. Replace the battery, it obviously has a dead cell and won't hold a charge.

Is the clutch hydraulic or does it use a cable? If it's hydraulic, you 've probably either got air in the system or a bad master or slave cylinder. The clutch arm movement might be only to the point of resistance or before it which would explain why you don't feel the resistance. If your clutch is cable acutated, there is no explainable reason why you wouldn't feel the resistance of the clutch springs when you squeeze it.

liquid fuel getting in cycliners. need carbs cleaned float sticking will fill engine with gas check oil level and air box

right side of motor twords the backabout middle ways

ur ride is 30 somethin and ur doin better thenaverage--parts get old and nuts get loose--buy a clymer manual for troublshoot details

Did you set up the clutch mechanism/pushrod correctly? Where the clutch cable goes into the engine you need to remove the cover to access it. First off, set some freeplay into the cable by either/and adjusting the lower end of the cable or at the lever.
Once done, under the cover you will see a lock nut on the end of a shaft with a slot in it for your screwdriver. Slacken the lock nut. Turn the shaft in (clock wise) until you just feel resistance. Now back it out half a turn. Secure the lock nut ensuring the centre shaft does not turn. Now set the freeplay in the cable to give a few mm's play at the lever (you may be able to acheive this with just the knurled adjuster at the lever end, if not use the inline adjuster at the point where the cable goes into the engine cover). Make sure this is right before the hassle of checking the plates.

they should hook up to the air filter system

Hi, please let me know if you find out how to remove the seat, trying to do the same here! Thank you