20 Most Recent 1980 Suzuki GS 750 L - Page 4 Questions & Answers

not the cylinder head wont come off???? means what? is not = now? real stuck cyliner off (real = rear?) I am trying to follow along blind... your first ever engine work on Motor cycles and lost the service manual that in fact tells all steps to do that? buy one/? gee they are so cheap even used, off fleabay. yes the cam chain guides must be removed.(on some mc) yes cam out and chain released to crank center sprocket. or see if cam chain a keeper link to release the chain, I just did a honda 75, CB750 , and made it like new and sold it. a 12 stud head, with nuts, must be all off. on some 4 cyl, engines there are hidden guide screws seen down the center chain well casing, and a side tensioner too that must be removed, gee all this is in the manual and only off top of my head. is this really a head question or cylinder barrel question we can not see you turning bolts blind. does the engine even spin? not seized engine is step 1. not told that. i rebuilt my first motor cycle in 1963. but papa handed me and service manual for it and said READ this first;. then ask questions. just ffound this bike in an old barn or did it sit in the rain for 45 long hard years? old bikes all the studs are seized now, and 6mm case screws too. unless last owner used anti-seize lube as I have for all those years. my guess is heads do come off but not the actual cylinder jugs/barrels , them self. ??? right and engine is NOT seized, it turn by hand free? the center cam chain must be released , cam out. see this. see bolt on guide the auto tensioner device must be pulled too. 2 guides and 1 large tensioner. .

Make sure the stator is grounded to the motor , the motor is properly grounded to the frame, and the battery negative cable is also properly grounded. Some times an easily overlooked thing like a proper ground can cause major problems.

solenoid, starter motor, starter switch & all associated wiring & connectors are poss faults check for power & grounding at starter motor & work backwardsRide SafeBike-Doc

Sounds like a dirty jet inside the carb, You said you have cleaned it numerous times, but did you take it apart to clean the ports and jets? If not go ahead a do a rebuild on it and you should be good.

tare apart the relay and clean points with sand paper

sir, its self start motor needs service..motor inner link carbons and bushes needs to change ..when your engine get hot ,obviously the pistons get tightend and motor is unable start the engine..

look under the carbs,towards the back of the enginge and you will see a threaded piece where the tacho cable screws on

The first test is the basic stuff, If there is no electrical power start at the battery, Make sure that both connections are good, clean and tight. If you see corrosion clean it off and then re-check. When you are trying to diagnose an electrical problem you need to have a 12 volt test light. The test light has a pointed probe with a bulb on one end and a clamp or alligator clip on the other. ( You can purchase these 12 volt test lights for about $10 ) The positive lead or cable of the battery goes to the starter relay. depending on your model the relay also has a main fuse. This fuse will make or break connection to the whole motorcycle. Find and check this fuse, it will appear burnt if it is bad. the objective is to follow the power through the motorcycles wiring. check the fuse for power when the key is on by attaching the test light clamp to the negative or black side of the battery and then touching the pointed end to the fuse on BOTH sides of the contact. If the fuse is bad, replace it. Some of the older bikes will look like the fuse is good but will not pass the test light procedure.

I hope that this helps you to get started. If you need more info, please send back and include the make model and year of your bike.
Steve

Need more information What year,What model?
D.

Under the left crankcase cover on the left end of the crankshaft (Left side when sitting on the bike.)

It's much more likely that its the stator although they do do the odd regulator as well.
Start at the stator first as it is easier to test.
Disconect the stator wires-sometimes behind the front sprocket cover-sometimes further up the wiring loom.
Using a multimeter check for resistance between the yellow wires (3x) comming from the stator cover. Check that none of these wires has conunuity(connection) to earth.
If any/all do you have a burnt out stator- remove the stator cover & inspect- the windings will look burnt & smell bad also.

If the stator tests fine then the reg is most likely the problem.

Hope this helps-
Regards Andrew

If only two lines to the petcock it does not matter which hose goes to which line if you think about it. On is on, and off is off.

its not a speed light???....thats comes on whne you get to a cirten speed??

Please be more descriptive. Chaz Moto DC

in a word,,, no!

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.