20 Most Recent 2006 Motorhispania Arena 125 Pro Racing SuperMotard Questions & Answers

Check the ignition components. Spark plug, plug wire, coil. ect.

Things to check, pickup coil, ignition coil, plug wire/cap and spark plug. Start with a new spark plug as they are inexpensive.

My first suggestion would be to replace the spark plug. It is likely cracked and when hot, misfiring. If this doesn't help then check the valve adjustments (Tappet). If too tight(small) they will cause the valve leak when hot and misfire/backfire. I hope this helps. Please post feedback. j

Check the fuses first. Next, check for spark but with a new spark plug. Is the kill switch on? Does the side stand have a kill switch? Is it working properly? Tip-over kill switch on your bike? Check the operation of the ignition switch and all kill switches with a volt ohmmeter.
Check the wiring harness. Did a wire come unplugged? Are all wires clean and with solid connections? Any abraded or pinched wires? Is the bike in neutral and the neutral light is lit up? If no neutral light, check the neutral switch and neutral switch wire on center casing. If still no spark, get CDI system and coils checked at the dealers shop.

Take off the seat and the gas tank and the rad may be in the way so you may need to drop the radiator too!

hi buddy use silkolene comp 2 plus this is racing oil also dont forget the gear box oil light gear oil, buddy

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Turn off the gas. Drain the carburetor> There is probably a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Be sure the mounting bolts are tight on the carb AND on the manifold attached to the cylinder. Tighten down the cylinder head bolts and put in a new spark plug. Turn on the gas and let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw. This process should fix the engine and probably eliminate the 'feathery' sound..

The oil leak can probably be fixed by just tightening up the case screws. The only other place for an oil leak is the shifter seal and the chain sprocket seal. Replace them if they are bad.


If the 'feathery' sound is still there then tighten down the exhaust mounting bolts. If it is still there then learn to love it....
Get a new battery Daniel, your'e hurting my head!

Please rate this solution.
( 4 diamonds would be nice ) >Thanks Daniel!

ProClean is good stuff but not worth the money. The only reason I had it was because I won a create of it at our clubs Supercross race it's too expensive in my opinion. I buy 40 litre containers of stuff called TFR which stands for Traffic Film Remover, it basically is a detergent like ProClean, Simple Green and all the others, only it costs a fraction of the price and isn't deluted. This means you can delute it to your own strength for different causes. You can see it removing dirt as you watch, like someone said above. You can not use it pure on the bike however, it will make alloy parts go dull - as my buddy found out lol. ,,,

we noticed a small puddle on the ground under my front wheel. Took the bike to Treasure Coast they fixed it said it was the front brake calliper leaking and it was a warranty issue. Today I see the back brake is now leaking and it is bad....the back brake is basically non-existent, the housing on the rear tire (there may be a name for it but I'm not very knowledgable, sorry) is very loose, the fluid has leaked out all over the rear wheel. Has anyone else had this? Is this the calliper also? (Don't know what a calliper is). Can we just re-tighten it here or replace something? Do I need to take it back to the dealership? Obviously I want to be sure the brakes are working properly, I just don't understand why both the front and now the back brake are leaking, maybe it's not related but sure is concerning (and frustrating). Thanks for your help,Take it back to the dealership. There is nothing to be tightened. The seals need to be replaced and TC Ridley can do it.,,,

A bucket for soapy water Soap or liquid detergent; automotive cleaners will work Gloves (to keep your hands clean) Bug and tar remover Degreaser and/or engine cleaner A toothbrush WD40 A brush for wheel cleaning Wheel cleaner At least two microfiber or 100% cotton sponges A variety of soft cotton towels and more abrasive rags A chamois cloth for drying

Question edited for clarity and format. The doesn't appear to be one, but this one is probably close enough as the engine is the same. Just a swap, road bike, motocross bike. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1469296/Motorhispania-Mh7-*****.html https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+MH+Duna+SuperMotard+125cc++service+manual ..

Hi there's this website something like reliable-store and it is very amazing for manual for repairing servicing anything someone on fixya recommended it to me and I thank him even today

HI Reece,I had the same problem with my RX125r, the speedo would jump all over the place and cause the bike to buck and jump. Try looking on the speed sensor cable for any signs of damage. mine had a small tear right next to the fron wheel which allowed for water ingress causeing the speed sensor to read the incorrect value. I bought a new cable for about 30 pounds and its been fine ever since, still occasionally get the CDI NO CDI error though. Hope this is of some use

Hi Richard, Any motorcycle store can order the part in for the following day...........CHEERS..

ON MOST 2 STROKE ENGINES IT IS 1:50, BUT MAKE SURE WITH THE MANUFACTURER.

Some common causes and potential solutions: Air/Vacuum Leak: If your Harley develops a vacuum leak in its air intake system, the air-fuel mixture becomes too rich. This can cause frequent stall outs, especially after the bike warms up. Vacuum leaks often occur due to dried-out or cracked air intake boots, faulty gaskets, or worn-out carburetor seals. When air escapes from the intake system, the fuel fills the empty space in the combustion chamber, altering the air/fuel ratio and negatively impacting combustion. Severe vacuum leaks can lead to excess fuel flowing into the exhaust system, causing backfiring and stalling while riding. Clogged Fuel Tank Filter/Fuel Injectors: A blocked fuel tank filter (due to coagulated fuel, moisture, dirt, or corrosion) impairs fuel flow, resulting in a lean air/fuel ratio. On fuel-injected Harleys, clogged fuel injectors produce similar symptoms. Regular maintenance, including cleaning and inspecting fuel filters, helps prevent these issues. Faulty Cam Chain Tensioner: A malfunctioning cam chain tensioner can affect engine timing and cause stalling. Regular checks and replacements are essential to avoid this problem. Faulty Cam Position Sensor: The cam position sensor plays a crucial role in ignition timing. If it malfunctions, it can lead to stalling and backfiring. Clogged Air Cleaner: A dirty air cleaner restricts airflow, affecting combustion efficiency. Regularly clean or replace the air filter to prevent this issue. Ignition System Failure: Faulty ignition components (such as spark plugs, ignition coils, or wires) can cause misfires, backfires, and stalling. Inspect and maintain these parts regularly. Compromised Battery Terminal Connection: Poor battery connections can disrupt electrical flow, affecting the ignition system. Ensure clean and secure battery terminals. Remember that diagnosing and addressing these issues may require professional assistance. Regular maintenance and timely repairs can keep your Fat Boy running smoothly on the road.

Honda C90, or Suzuki C90? all questions need full 'year make model'. Google it plus 'engine number location'. ..

I can't find a diagram. The small potentiometer on the control board likely serves as an adjustable component to fine-tune specific parameters. Here are some possibilities: Voltage Regulation: The potentiometer might control the output voltage. By adjusting it, you can set the desired charging voltage for different battery types (e.g., 6V or 12V). Current Limit Adjustment: It could be used to set the maximum charging current. Adjusting the potentiometer allows you to limit the charging current based on the battery's capacity and condition. Sensitivity or Threshold: Some potentiometers act as sensitivity controls. For example, it might adjust the threshold at which the charger switches between charging and maintenance modes. Setting the Potentiometer: Without the specific circuit diagram or detailed information about your charger, I recommend the following general steps: Observe the Potentiometer: Identify the potentiometer on the control board. Note its position and any markings (if present). Consult the User Manual: Check the user manual or operating instructions. It might provide guidance on adjusting the potentiometer. Trial and Error: If no specific instructions are available, start with the potentiometer set to its mid-position. Gradually adjust it while monitoring the charger's behavior (e.g., charging current, voltage). Observe how the charger responds to changes in the potentiometer setting. Fine-tune it based on your specific battery type and desired charging characteristics. Remember that precise adjustments depend on the charger's design and the battery you're charging.

The lift cables on a 1993 model 2693 Hilo camper are 30 feet,2 3/4 inches long and fit the standard height lift of 11 feet 8 inches high to the top of the overhead. The lift uses two cables. According to a Hi- Lo camper travel trailer forum, cable replacement is basically the same on all years and models, with the main difference being the length of the cables from model to model. You can use a cable cut chart to find what cable length you need for your camper, and you'll need to know your year, model name, and box (body) length: Lift cables typically wear out after three to five years, so it's important to replace them as needed and keep them regularly maintained.