1984 Moto Guzzi Le mans III - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It sounds like your float chamber is not filling up quick enough on full throttle. Take the carbs off and clean them, rplace all the the jets and the float valve. The trouble with the new fuels they crystalise and gum up after only afe months of not using the bike. Good luck.

it sounds like the brake pipe is blocked up with dirt or somthing,,,take the brake pipe off the rear caliper and stamp on the foot brake peddle if no fluid comes out there is the problem,,,it may be an air lock or just a blockage like you may have twisted the pipe closed doing it up to tightly? or only using one spanner insted of two!!!! if you have closed the pipe up, it would be safer to replace the pipe,,, before it blows out on you! also when you do finaly get brake fludid to the rear caliper,, press the pistons right into the caliper before bleeding the alr out then finaly pump up the brakes,,, dont bleed the brakes to slowly or the air will run back up the pipe,,,,undo the bleed nippel put your finger over the end of it and pump the foot brake about once every second till all the air is out then nip up the nippel,i hope this helps you out

Most likely Alternator or Starter Motor. Perhaps get both lots? Best if you have them out and with you Might also try your BOSCH Auto Electrician if the others don't have them. ,,

Have got electronic ignition? If not replace the springs in the distributor. Cahnge the fuel filters on the side of the carbs real easy job, they r just a screen that get blocked with old fuel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vwnijg8bTxE

what is the original problem that makes you think it is cam shaft problem If the manufacturer used cheap cams (not likely as it affects the brand name) the engine is under warranty and the cams would be replaced by the company Find a different service center or contact the manufacturer direct to see if there is a recall out on the engine consider this --if it is a moto guzzi mechanic that was telling you this , then why was it not booked in for replacement parts under warranty I suspect that he was trying to get extra money out of you and was not qualified in the product

Bad connection or faulty starter. Check voltage/current to the starter when you press start - should be around 8/9 volts for a 12 volt system - if considerably higher suspect starter, if lower and little current flowing suspect poor connection somewhere. If the voltage is low and current high suspect starter.

Probably have to remove the seat first. Most fuel tanks are retained by u shaped flanges that grip a round rubber puck on both sides of the frame near the steering head. After you drain the fuel, lift the rear of the tank slightly and pull it to the rear, it should then be free to lift off the frame.

Could be running way to lean and the fuel may have too much alcohol or water or the injectors may be clogged/restricted.

I don't know what vehicle/equipment you're referencing here. With that in mind, can you drill a hole or holes through the chassis just below the gas cap to allow water to escape?

oil leaks during use indicate a loose bearing adjustment allowing the oil to move past the seal lip when rotating I would be checking wheel bearing condition and adjustment, oil level in that section and wear groove for where the oil seal lip runs reasoning is , when the wheel is stationary the oil is not being splashed around and will settle in the lowest places when moving , if the seal housing is allowed to move separate to the axle position ( wobble , up down sideways etc) then small gaps appear between the seal lip and what it runs on and so oil is allowed to escape if it is a drive shaft to the rear wheel check the output shaft to the wheel for movement ( bad bearings , adjustment/ preload ) or anything that will not keep the shaft in the center of the seal

Could it be immobilized? Try disconnecting the battery.

the blank one and you can check this out after the bike is running or at least when you get the coil to fire by placing the lead part of a pencil in the gap between the spark plug or a good ground and the gap between the pencil and the spark plug wire so you can see the spark jump to the plug or ground from the plug wire and if the spark flash is on the wire side of the pencil the coil the coil is wired with wrong polarity if the system is a positive ground system. The coil will work no matter what the polarity ie no matter which of the terminals you connect to power and which you connect to ground, the only difference will be a somewhat weaker spark if electron flow is reversed from what it should be i.e. if it is from negative or ground to positive on a negative ground system or as on some older British ignition systems from positive to negative on a positive ground system. The flash will appear on the side of the pencil lead away from the current flow i.e. the flash will occur as the current leaves the pencil lead. Hope this helps.

Try at guzzitech.com or wildguzzi.com. Also the folks at harper moto guzzi have an online site. Try them too.

most guzzi's do not HAVE kick start

put volt meter on generator mounted on top of motor under gas tank, when engine rev is over1200 rpm on tach, should read above 12 volts,up to 13+. check tension on genny belt, if loose, will not spin genny well enough to make charge

If both cylinders are involved then it has to be a fuel delivery problem or a timing problem. If you have checked the timing (valve and ignition) then it's fuel and it applies to both cylinders (I'm assuming here). The tank valve may be gummed up. Flow may be restricted. If it isn't both cylinders then it will likely be a carb problem on the bad side. Go through that carb again.

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when you say you have play is it coming from the wheel bearings or the swing arm .if there is play like that and the axle is tight it sounds like wheel bearings ,but to be sure take the bike to a guzzi specialist to be positive.hope this helps

its a wear item that needs replacement