Check your rectifier. Do a hydro test on your battery if you can get into it. Should be 1200 or more. If the battery is 3 years old or more - replace it.
The answer (rather late :P) is Yes! You can buy a derestricted CDI from somewhere like wemoto.com I expect, which helps with the top end speed. You can also up or downgear the bike. I've got 4 teeth less on my 2001 Hipster (rear sprocket) and I can accelerate like a ***** (faster than most boy racers off the line) and easily outstrip bikes like the 2012 YBF125 and the 2002 CBR125 on the strip. That's all I've done (other than freeing up the exhaust by shoving a screwdriver down the little holes at the end of the exhaust and smacking it with a hammer - sounds deeper too) and take the side off of the air box filter and put a cleaning sponge in place of the original filter (That warbles quite nicely too)
125cc isn't a very big engine to push a scooter with a windshield. Adding a windshield dramitcally increases the load on that little engine. Kymco does have one and Your dealer can probably order it for you. You can also find it on http://www.kymcousa.com/access/windscree...
Check your fuses and if they're good, check the connections at the far end of the battery cables. If they are clean and tight, check the battery cables themselves for continuity. If all of the above are good, start troubleshooting from the keyswitch back. If you know which terminals to jump out at the keyswitch for the lights, jump them out; if the lights light up, suspect the switch.
check your connection..first check the battery power, if the power is full, check the fuse just connected not far from the battery, if is also good, check the starter moter,,i hope u will be helped
1) . The carborator & air filter are proper or not.
2). The race & pickup is adjusted or not.
3). Ask your mechanic to chk the power output in bhp. Match it with the pescribed one.
4). The accelerator & clutch are properly working or not.
Your problem can be because of any of these. Please do a through check.
the mechanic did not put back the thrust washers on the pivot shifter rod when he fixed your bike. You must disassemble the transmission and, install the missing thrust spacer washers the dealer will have the shop drawings and, the part; it's an easy fix.
Check for loose or dirty wire connections at the parts under the seat and coming from the stator. Check fuse connections. Any wires disconnected? Any component, tail light, headlight, left "turned on"?
Put a voltmeter on the battery terminals and rev the bike to2000 rpm. The reading should be about 14 volts. If not, better have a dealer check out the stator, rectifier, voltage regulator and ignition switch.
Hi, Russell if you ask 10 different riders you will get 10 different answers. All oil is certified by the Oil Gods to perform under specific conditions for specific applications and any oil is better than no oil and if you're in a bind diesel oil works just fine. If your engine is air cooled never run automotive oil because normal motorcycle cylinder head temperatures run much hotter than water-cooled cylinder heads, make sure the oil is designed for motorcycles. Your owners manual recommends a specific type of oil that is designed to lubricate the engine parts to withstand the normal driving conditions the motorcycle was intended to be used for, end of story. Now for an analogy, your cars owners manual recommends using 87 octane fuel to power your engine for maximum performance and it does a wonderful job of achieving that goal. But you say 92 octane is better because it has a higher number and is more expensive, well guess what your car will not run any better and there are no long or short term benefits from running a higher octane fuel bottom line your car doesn't need it. Same thing with oil sure they make lubricants that can withstand the temperature of molten lava which you would need if you were planning to drive into an active volcano, don't waste your time and money on snake oil just use what your bike needs and your manufacturer recommends and nothing more. The oil weight grade is for ambient temperatures you expect to drive in between oil changes 20w50 covers 80% of all driving temperature conditions if your looking for a better oil that works in all temperature conditions, buy a Synthetic in the same grade from a reputable oil manufacturer I personally recommend AMSOIL just because they were the pioneers in synthetics and their load test numbers for wear put them in a class all by themselves and you can go longer and further in between oil changes. It's a little hard to find in stores but easily available online.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.putoline.com/en/product-recommendation/motorcycles-scooters-mopeds-quads-atv/kymco/hipster/hipster-125/51546/252809/#!/component:252809https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyhfqa3QP5kManuals Kymcohttp://kymcopartsonline.com/catalog/table_overview.php?s_fk_manufacturers_id=21&s_fk_model_yeOwner Manuals KYMCO
I would separate the feed wires from the fuse box/ distribution point and measure any current draw in the separate feeds.
That will tell me instantly where the fault/leak is.
Question edited for clarity and toss in some CAPS.
Question moved from Garden category.
Fuel delivery issue. See if there is any in the fuel tank.
Stuck float in the carb.
Blocked jets in the carb.
https://www.google.com/search?q=kymco+k+pipe+125cc
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Kymco UKhttps://www.kymco.co.uk > AGILITY-eq35fa
QUALITY, STYLE & PERFORMANCE! The new Agility compact 8 mph scooter offers high performance with comfort, making everyday journeys a pleasure!
Maximum Speed (Kph / mph): 12.8 Kph / 8 mph
Wheel Type: Pneumatic
Calculated Range (Km / Miles): 40 Km / 25 Miles
Turning Radius (mm): 1560 mm
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