20 Most Recent 2002 Kymco Hipster 125 - Page 4 Questions & Answers


How many kilometers has it done? Either one of these is the culprit; battery, spark plug, ignition coil, or CDI. CDI normally seems to go around 25000-30000kms.

Kymco... | Answered on Aug 13, 2017


Hey Scott.. not sure of the marks.. BUT the cam lobes should be opposite of the rocker arms or buckets,,, ON TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE<<

Kymco... | Answered on Aug 11, 2017


Hi, Jack for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kymco... | Answered on Aug 08, 2017


Fixya does not sell rubber oil plugs.

Kymco... | Answered on Jul 21, 2017


hello, there are a few ways to find out the value of your bike/car/4x4 etc but there is a site my parents used which I would recommend. it is free, they require by law just a couple of your details and make/model/year of your vehical plus the reg number and you then get the best quote possible. I would start here and I hope this helps you. https://www.sellbike.com/valuation/

Kymco... | Answered on Jul 20, 2017


Hi, Sandra and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Fuel tank empty
11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Faulty fuel pump.
15. Faulty pressure regulator.
16. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
17. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11659.15
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Kymco... | Answered on Jun 25, 2017


Hi, Ronnie the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department or eBay and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
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Kymco... | Answered on Jun 02, 2017


Hi, Michael there are few things you need to look at when trying to troubleshoot your scooter for power loss. How does it sound? If you run it wide open throttle when warmed up, does it peak out? or stutter? is it loud, or very quite the symptoms can help decide what to try. When you are going full throttle, the engine should get to a high RPM and sound smooth here are a few things you should look for:
1. Plugging air intake- will start well cold, but be hard to warm up and not reach top speed. The engine will stutter at high RPM.
2. Open air intake- to much air or air cleaner is disconnected- engine will not have power at high speed, make vacuum cleaner sound. Acts like it's running out of gas. ( sounds almost the same as a dirty carburetor.)
3. Plugged exhaust port the engine sounds and runs good, but has no power. Slow to take off. Same as plugged muffler, but if the muffler is plugged you get a very smooth exhaust note at idle. Humming instead of pop pop pop pop.
4. Fouled spark plug- backfire. If you get backfire, pretty good chance the plug is fouled.
5. On models with belts, the gear ratio drops as the belt gets thinner (most hondas have belts).
6. On a moped with high mileage, the belt will cause slow top end speed if worn thin.
7. If you have a bike with chain drive in an oil bath and you "OVERFILL" the oil amount in the chaincase, that makes for slow running as it requires too much power to turn the oil.
8. If your engine does not rev up well and stutters or sputters, like when it is cold with the choke on, the engine is running too rich. (too much fuel).
9. Is the air filter soaked with oil? Clean with soap and water!
10. Is the air opening in the airbox plugged? Very common for a spider or mud wasp to build a nest in one of the intake holes.
11. On some scooters it is common to get a leaf stuck in the intake port of the airbox, causing a 10mph drop in top speed.
12. Don't try to adjust the screws on the side of the carb to get lean or rich, as they are for the idle circuit only.
13. The idle air screw should be about 1 1/2 turns out on most scooters.
14. Say your engine revs but kind of wheezes or acts like it runs out of gas it is common to have a buildup of hard carbon on the inside diameter of the hole in the main and pilot jets, and it must be carefully removed.
15. If your moped does not idle the pilot jet is likely plugged.
16. Anytime a moped has not been used for 1 year or more, and still has the same fuel in it, good chance you will need to clean the jets.
17. The poor quality of today's gasoline has made this a rather steady bet.
18. Mopeds are affected more than most vehicles because the small size hole the jet requires is easily plugged, even by thick oily fuel, or water.
19. Drain your carb once in awhile! Most have a screw of some type at the bottom (where the drain needs to be) of the carb.
20. Make sure the air boot to the airbox is not on wrong, kinked, hard and shrunken.
21. Don't oil the air filter if you got the stutters.
22. On some scooters, you can leave one snap loose on the airbox lid to allow it to crack open, to get full rpm.
23. "WARNING" too much lean out on the gas, and since the fuel cools the piston, the piston can "MELT"
24. Still slow? Check the muffler tip. Make sure no carbon buildup is inside the tip, stick something in as far as it will go.
25. Common on some scooters to have the tip bent over on a curb, then carbon up solid. common of all types to have the whole muffler plug.
26. When you have the muffler off, is it heavy?
27. Can you get the baffle out to see if the holes are plugged?
28. Check the exhaust port on the cylinder.
29. If you can't see all the way into the piston, use a mirror and a flashlight to make sure the piston is ok and the port is not plugged where it meets the piston.
30. Common on all models to plug here, Just scrape it out so the hole is full size again.
31. Don't worry about the small film on the inside of the port, I am talking about a very thin film that forms a wall in the exhaust port right next to the piston.
32. A 1 1/2 inch hole can be reduced to the size of a pea...... With a thin film of carbon.
33. If you can see the piston ok, it's not the problem.
34. If you are in doubt regarding your exhaust pipe being plugged, put your hand behind the muffler to see how much pressure is expelled. compare to another bike.
35. It should blow pretty good and have a distinct pop pop pop pop sound while idling, not a steady humming.
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kymco... | Answered on May 30, 2017


Hi, Andrewand the usual suspects are:
1. Wheels and or tires worn or damaged.
2. Engine/transmission/vehicle not aligned properly.
3. Primary chain is badly worn or links too tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
4. Engine to transmission mounting bolts loose.
5. Upper engine mounting bracket loose.
6. Ignition timing incorrect due to a poorly tuned engine.
7. Internal engine problem flywheels have shifted.
8. Broken frame.
9. Stabilizer links worn or loose.
10. Rubber mounts loose or worn.
11. Rear fork pivot shaft nuts loose.
12. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
13. Worn out or broken universal joint on shaft drive models.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/23266-engine-vibration-3-000-rpms.html
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Kymco... | Answered on May 30, 2017


Sorry we have no keys for sale here. Contact the dealer for a key blank

Kymco... | Answered on May 03, 2017


under the seat.

Kymco... | Answered on Mar 22, 2017


12 volt battery should be 12-13.2 volts dc normal and 14.5-14.8 vdc at rpms if you only get 8.5 vdc then the charge system ( alternator /stator)is not working or the voltage regulator needs replacing

Kymco... | Answered on Mar 22, 2017


Hi, Jenni and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Kymco... | Answered on Mar 14, 2017


Hi, Anonymous at ang karaniwang suspects ay ang mga: 1. Malubhang discharged o isang nasira baterya, ay dapat magkaroon 12.5 volts o mas mahusay at maaari able sa pumasa sa isang load test kung kinakailangan. 2. Nabigong alternator / generator at o boltahe regulator. 3. Loose o corroded baterya terminal at o cables lalo na ang "NEGATIVE" cable, hanapin maluwag, corroded, o nasirang connectors sa loob ng cable harness sa "KAPWA" dulo. 4. Nabigong main circuit breaker o ignition switch, i-check para sa maluwag na koneksyon at pagpapatuloy. 5. Nabigong system at o ignition relay, suriin para sa pagpapatuloy. 6. Nabigong pag-aapoy likawin, ignisyon / electronic module. 7. Nabigong CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, o BAS sensor, corroded, maluwag o sirang wire connector pins / sockets. 8. Throttle cables at o idle speed hindi wasto nababagay hot idle bilis ay dapat na 950 RPM sa 1000 RPM. 9. Air / fuel timpla tornilyo hindi wasto nababagay. 10. Accelerator pump napinsala o hindi gumagana. 11. Tubig o dumi sa fuel system, karbyurator o filter. 12. Restricted, block o kinked fuel line. 13. Fuel tangke walang laman. 14. Ang gas cap ay hindi venting maayos o fuel tank venting sistema hinarangan. 15. Vacuum linya mula paggamit sari-sari sa petcock nasira, basag, o hindi naka-attach, karbyurator vent line plugged. 16. Needle at upuan natigil closed sa mangkok float. Para sa karagdagang impormasyon tungkol sa iyong isyu at mahalagang "LIBRE" download na kailangan mo mangyaring mag-click sa asul na mga link sa ibaba. Good luck at magkaroon ng isang kahanga-hanga araw.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Kymco... | Answered on Feb 24, 2017


sorry we have no idea of the price , check with a motorcycle shop

Kymco... | Answered on Jan 26, 2017


Hi, Victor start by inspecting the fan fuse for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Kymco... | Answered on Jan 19, 2017


I think you may have a fuel delivery issue.

Kymco... | Answered on Jan 18, 2017


Hi, Kenneth and the usual suspects are:
1. Extremely lean fuel mixture.
2. Dirt, rust, water, or ethanol sludge in the fuel system.
3. Sticky throttle cables.
4. Multiple carburetors not in synchronization.
5. TPS sensor out of adjustment or faulty.
6. Wrong spark plugs for the type of service.
7. Throttle bodies not in synchronization (FI)
8. Faulty O2 sensor.
9. Clogged, stuck, or faulty IAC valve.
10. Aftermarket components not compatible with ECM.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://scooter.wikia.com/wiki/Tuning_a_carburetor
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Kymco... | Answered on Jan 13, 2017


Hi, Victor you may have a charging system issue for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Kymco... | Answered on Jan 13, 2017


Yes a new piston and a rebore of the cylinder if that is the problem. You will need to tear it down to inspect what caused the problem.

Kymco... | Answered on Jan 11, 2017

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