the valve timing mark is on the flywheel on the Hipster's.Remove the large flat blade screw from the top of the left hand side casing. Turn the engine either by hand (using kickstart with ignition off), turning rear wheel in gear, or by removing the "kymco" badge with three 8mm bolts and using a 19mm deep socket on the crank, until you see two marks (one says F one say T) the F one is the advance firing mark, the T mark is the timing mark. Keep turning the engine over and watch your valves, wait for the exhaust valve to close, inlet valve to open and then close again then the next time you see the T line will be TDC. This is where you set your valve timing from.
Hi, Russell if you ask 10 different riders you will get 10 different answers. All oil is certified by the Oil Gods to perform under specific conditions for specific applications and any oil is better than no oil and if you're in a bind diesel oil works just fine. If your engine is air cooled never run automotive oil because normal motorcycle cylinder head temperatures run much hotter than water-cooled cylinder heads, make sure the oil is designed for motorcycles. Your owners manual recommends a specific type of oil that is designed to lubricate the engine parts to withstand the normal driving conditions the motorcycle was intended to be used for, end of story. Now for an analogy, your cars owners manual recommends using 87 octane fuel to power your engine for maximum performance and it does a wonderful job of achieving that goal. But you say 92 octane is better because it has a higher number and is more expensive, well guess what your car will not run any better and there are no long or short term benefits from running a higher octane fuel bottom line your car doesn't need it. Same thing with oil sure they make lubricants that can withstand the temperature of molten lava which you would need if you were planning to drive into an active volcano, don't waste your time and money on snake oil just use what your bike needs and your manufacturer recommends and nothing more. The oil weight grade is for ambient temperatures you expect to drive in between oil changes 20w50 covers 80% of all driving temperature conditions if your looking for a better oil that works in all temperature conditions, buy a Synthetic in the same grade from a reputable oil manufacturer I personally recommend AMSOIL just because they were the pioneers in synthetics and their load test numbers for wear put them in a class all by themselves and you can go longer and further in between oil changes. It's a little hard to find in stores but easily available online.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.putoline.com/en/product-recommendation/motorcycles-scooters-mopeds-quads-atv/kymco/hipster/hipster-125/51546/252809/#!/component:252809https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyhfqa3QP5kManuals Kymcohttp://kymcopartsonline.com/catalog/table_overview.php?s_fk_manufacturers_id=21&s_fk_model_yeOwner Manuals KYMCO
Check your fuses and if they're good, check the connections at the far end of the battery cables. If they are clean and tight, check the battery cables themselves for continuity. If all of the above are good, start troubleshooting from the keyswitch back. If you know which terminals to jump out at the keyswitch for the lights, jump them out; if the lights light up, suspect the switch.
check your connection..first check the battery power, if the power is full, check the fuse just connected not far from the battery, if is also good, check the starter moter,,i hope u will be helped
1) . The carborator & air filter are proper or not.
2). The race & pickup is adjusted or not.
3). Ask your mechanic to chk the power output in bhp. Match it with the pescribed one.
4). The accelerator & clutch are properly working or not.
Your problem can be because of any of these. Please do a through check.
the mechanic did not put back the thrust washers on the pivot shifter rod when he fixed your bike. You must disassemble the transmission and, install the missing thrust spacer washers the dealer will have the shop drawings and, the part; it's an easy fix.
Check for loose or dirty wire connections at the parts under the seat and coming from the stator. Check fuse connections. Any wires disconnected? Any component, tail light, headlight, left "turned on"?
Put a voltmeter on the battery terminals and rev the bike to2000 rpm. The reading should be about 14 volts. If not, better have a dealer check out the stator, rectifier, voltage regulator and ignition switch.
I would separate the feed wires from the fuse box/ distribution point and measure any current draw in the separate feeds.
That will tell me instantly where the fault/leak is.
Question edited for clarity and toss in some CAPS.
Question moved from Garden category.
Fuel delivery issue. See if there is any in the fuel tank.
Stuck float in the carb.
Blocked jets in the carb.
https://www.google.com/search?q=kymco+k+pipe+125cc
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Question edited for clarity, typos and spelling.
Engines only need 3 things to run
Fuel, which must be clean and not 2 years old.
Compression.
A Spark at the right time.
One of the above is not there on your ATV. Flywheels don't break. Check the spark plug is clean and correctly gapped.
Service Manual
