20 Most Recent 2001 KTM SX 125 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

most likely it is a head gasket but could be a cracked head it will have to be torn down to see have head or heads magfluxed and cheacked prior to putting back togeather

Make sure its not over full. Just trying to help!

Sounds like your clutch is out of adjustment, or needs to be bled. Most of the ktm's use a Magura hydraulic clutch which can be bled using Mineral Oil. DO NOT USE BRAKE FLUID.

CLEAN CARB AND REPLACE FUEL FILTERS CHOKE ENGINE TAKE OFF AIR FILTER REMOVE SPARK PLUG AND RUN IT IDLE 5 MIN PLACE ALL COMPONITES ON IT AND DRIVE

I bet you got water in your gas through the carb or in the spark plug check the oil for what looks like a raindow .

Do you have the owners manual with you? If yes, then you can check your manual and look for the page where you can check the location of the oil.- IRC Motorcycle Tires combined with good quality components

The F1 light is an engine management error, take it to your nearest dealer and get them to run their diagnosis machine on it. You may have a mixture problem or an ignition timing problem.

Since it was just worked on ... take it back and find out what the problem is. Could be a disconnected or faulty sensor. In any event, since you took it to be repaired, and paid for it, get it repaired. Don't run the bike until this is resolved. Low pressure is DEADLY to a engine.

If you are racing, or riding really hard you may need to check the clutch each season. You can take the friction plates out and measure the thickness, and check this against KTMs recommended limits. If the raised squares on the friction plates are worn off they surely need replacing. Normal trail riding with some moderately hard riding should see the clutch last for many years without needing new plates. The plates might still be OK in 2031! Change the oil as often as recommended in the manual, or as often as you can afford! (General advice only).

Yes it can be done, but Ally welding is not something for a novice. Find a local engineering company with a good reputation and they should be able to help.

It sounds like to me that the slave cylinder { If it is close to the engines gearbox} it might b getting to hot. How is the oil in the gearbox? It could be overheating !!!!!

1. check for an intake leak in front of the carb, like broke carb gromet, carb flange o'ring/gasket leaking, or any broken or leaking vacuum lines. If the bike has been sitting for a while or has had little use, the carb is probably plugged up and needs cleaning.

New battery and the bike runs fine? Lights will come on intermittently? High and low beam? All lights or just headlight? Check fuse block for problem fuse or wiring. Loose bulb?

Check the output of the charging system, make sure it is greater than 13.2 volts DC at the battery engine at high idle..

Since you drained the tank most probably the dirt which collects in any tank over a period of use would have been used up & thus those dirt went to the carburator. If you have a filter before the carb, clean it BUT MOST IMP clean the jets in the carb, especially the the fuel jet/nipple.

if the spark and compression are rite-then the fuel is at issue-jets need attention or float level ajust

If you go online and do a search for Motorcycle Salvage yards you may have some luck. They also salvage snowmobiles and boats up here in Michigan.Many of these businesses will ship directly to you which is good considering the teardown needed to remove the crank. Or you may be able to get a shortblock from someone who was in an accident or damaged a head or Insurance recovery. These kind of things wind up in Salvage yards.I believe Craigslist and Ebay also have a portion of their sites where you can request for things you want to buy. That gives you a big audience.I hope my solution is helpful to you.

ya very similar thing happened to me at a trials meet started my vintage kawasaki kt and it warmed up fine then took it for a run heard a bang and it wouldnt re start turned out i broke the crank shaft right in half there for the bike would push but it wouldnt start easy fix just found a crankshaft and it worked great probably was a clean break wich explains why there is no debris

Make sure its bled through correctly, make sure you can run a flow of water through with bottom rad hose off, check thermostat water pump and fan switch

Disconect the stator wiring coming from the engine cover, drain oild if its a wet coil, remove engine cover, remove fly wheel (will need a puller or flywheel removal tool witch threads into the fly wheel inner thread and pops it off when you screw the bolt down the inner thread of the puller) remove the stator bolts and thats you.