Top 20 1989 kawasaki ZX 10 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

locate and test the trigger. You should be able to trace it back from the CDI to the engine *(usually under a side cover). Look for a proper electrical pulse coming out of it.

Check from wemoto.com or try google it for part supplier near you. Good ?

contact the person you got it from there may be a warrenty on the recently installed clutch !! you must make sure there is no leeks or problems with the clutch master cyclinder

There could be other things involved.

• Have you checked the tank and the fuel valve for crud. It should have a screen on the valve and it may have crud or rust stopping it up.
• The tank valve will have to be removed from the tank to check the screen.
• Have you checked the valve settings - clearance..
• Spark plugs.
• Spark plug wires and spark.
• Compression, does she have good compression?
• Timing?

make sure kill switch is good and not killing power even in run, check fuses.if they are all good make a temporary wire to test if you can bring in power on a
(fused) line to the coil through the ignition circuit,( to make sure it will turn off) then see if it will start.

I dont know how to get pics for you but I could basically tell you where they go.. now that bike has a rack of 4 carbs.. first to find the one that has a missing screw tou probally want to take them off the bike but all as one, dont seperate the carbs. turn them upside down because the screws are on the bottomfind the one that matches and replace it.. now there are a few parts to the screw you might want to take another one out to make sure everything is there
if you have any more questions you can email me at [email protected]

Drain the carburetors. There should be a screw on the lower side of each carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Any water in the gas? Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carbs to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plugs and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetors from the engine.

FOR EACH CARB > Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, to your queries:

• hook up all the vacuum lines - yes or cover/plug all
• to stop fuel flow - hooking up all the vacuum lines or covering/plugging them would be technically correct but will not stop the flooding/fuel overflow;
• run correctly - with constant overflow/flooding, it will not run correctly.

To my knowledge, overflow could only be caused by:

• faulty valve pins, worn out rounded pyramids, necked/indentations on the surface of the rounded pyramid, cracks (rubber type);
• worn out inlet port;
• dirt, sand, foreign object lodged against inlet port hole;
• mis-adjusted floats;

Which would mean, go to do it all over again.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

OK.. Loosen BOTH ends... the slack at the engine should be enough where you can move the cable a little (at least 1/8") and now adjust the handle bar lever so there is at least 1/8" of slack between the lever and the holder, If the clutch still isn't working, take a little more slack out AT the engine. If this does not fix it, you probably need a NEW cable....the old one may by stretched beyond its usable length!!

dont know what bike you have, but there is no wires at tail light that will affect charging.
Most bikes have a stator that produces AC voltage powered by magnet in the flywheel, this then goes into a rectifier\regulator, which converts to DC and regulates voltage and then to the battery
The regulator will have 1 or 2 plugs and 5 wires 1 red 1black and 3 yellow or white

The plugs you describe sound like indicator or earth wires , a power wire wont have a male bullet

try just replacing fuses, if it sat that long could be corrosion or rust

1. Oil level is checked with the engine off and the bike on its center stand so that the oil level is even across the engine.

2. Without knowing the model and year of your bike, it's not possible to suggest the oil capacity for your engine. Some engines have the maximum oil capacity molded into the engine case near the oil filler; others do not.

3. Your fuel petcock is vacuum activated. When the engine is running, a small amount of vacuum keeps the fuel flowing when the petcock is set to "On" (main tank) or "reserve" (emergency dregs of the tank). "Prim" stands for "prime," which permits fuel to flow without the presence of engine vacuum. You'd use this if you ran the bike out of gas and needed to get fuel to the carbs so that the engine could be started again. You don't want to keep your petcock set to "prime" for very long when the bike is turned off (or even when it's on) so that the carbs can't overfill. In extreme cases, you can fill your crankcase with gasoline, which can lead to hydraulic lock and the potential for serious engine damage if you try to run your bike like that (I've had that happen to me).

4. Again, without knowing the year and model of your bike, I am not able to provide any information about the spark plugs used by your bike. However, if your bike has 18mm spark plugs, you'll need an 18mm deep socket to install and remove them. I recommend using a 6-point over a 12-point socket for this purpose--and spending the extra dollar or two to get a good quality, brand name socket. I have never seen an 18mm "spark plug" socket, but if you're really concerned, you can take the little rubber insulator out of an old spark plug socket and stuff it in an 18mm deep socket. I have never bothered.

Speak to your dealer

The fuse box is under the seat. Look for a black plastic box, it is held in place by a rubber coated bracket.

this link will tell you everything you need to know about your bike plus more

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/?gclid=CJKezo-w7acCFQRMgwodABTCZw#/Kawasaki/ZX1000-A2_Ninja_1000R_%281987%29/CARBURETOR_ASSY

Did you try swap the plug itself or just replace both plugs?

might be 617 but get it checked by a dealer to make sure this is the lime green colour http://www.color-rite.com/) is worth a look best of luck

just pull

Google motorcycle salvage kawasaki and see what you can find.

Take the seat off and take the battery out. You have to remove the two bolts on that metal bracket that runs over the battery and it will come right out. The ground strap is attatched to one side so watch for that so you know to put it back while refitting the battery.

You also have to remove the rear bolt that holds the tank on . So you can tilt the tank a little bit.
You will have the plastic fill pieces off when you do it. (Sides under seat.)

You have to remove the seat and the two bolts from tank mount on sub frame. -------- Just remove the old battery connecting terminals.And fit the new battery to the exact place,connect the terminals.And all reverse or removing procedure to complete the fitting .This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.