hi, have you tried draining the old fuel from the carbs, undo the drain screw in each float bowl untill all the fuel is removed retighten and try to start again, may need carb overall, poss choke jets in carbs blockage paul
I dont know how to get pics for you but I could basically tell you where they go.. now that bike has a rack of 4 carbs.. first to find the one that has a missing screw tou probally want to take them off the bike but all as one, dont seperate the carbs. turn them upside down because the screws are on the bottomfind the one that matches and replace it.. now there are a few parts to the screw you might want to take another one out to make sure everything is there
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make sure kill switch is good and not killing power even in run, check fuses.if they are all good make a temporary wire to test if you can bring in power on a
(fused) line to the coil through the ignition circuit,( to make sure it will turn off) then see if it will start.
Hi, Max and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 04 zx10 no spark How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle Kawasaki NINJA ZX 10 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
dont know what bike you have, but there is no wires at tail light that will affect charging. Most bikes have a stator that produces AC voltage powered by magnet in the flywheel, this then goes into a rectifier\regulator, which converts to DC and regulates voltage and then to the battery The regulator will have 1 or 2 plugs and 5 wires 1 red 1black and 3 yellow or white
The plugs you describe sound like indicator or earth wires , a power wire wont have a male bullet
1. Oil level is checked with the engine off and the bike on its center stand so that the oil level is even across the engine.
2. Without knowing the model and year of your bike, it's not possible to suggest the oil capacity for your engine. Some engines have the maximum oil capacity molded into the engine case near the oil filler; others do not.
3. Your fuel petcock is vacuum activated. When the engine is running, a small amount of vacuum keeps the fuel flowing when the petcock is set to "On" (main tank) or "reserve" (emergency dregs of the tank). "Prim" stands for "prime," which permits fuel to flow without the presence of engine vacuum. You'd use this if you ran the bike out of gas and needed to get fuel to the carbs so that the engine could be started again. You don't want to keep your petcock set to "prime" for very long when the bike is turned off (or even when it's on) so that the carbs can't overfill. In extreme cases, you can fill your crankcase with gasoline, which can lead to hydraulic lock and the potential for serious engine damage if you try to run your bike like that (I've had that happen to me).
4. Again, without knowing the year and model of your bike, I am not able to provide any information about the spark plugs used by your bike. However, if your bike has 18mm spark plugs, you'll need an 18mm deep socket to install and remove them. I recommend using a 6-point over a 12-point socket for this purpose--and spending the extra dollar or two to get a good quality, brand name socket. I have never seen an 18mm "spark plug" socket, but if you're really concerned, you can take the little rubber insulator out of an old spark plug socket and stuff it in an 18mm deep socket. I have never bothered.