Hi, Wheels1223 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. GPZ500 Charging HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR... http://service.tanga-moteurs.ro/data/Kawasaki_EX500-GPZ500S_1987-1993-ServiceManual_%28EN%29.pdf OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Carburetor Maintenance Idle Mixture Screw Factory Setting Ex 500 com The home of the Kawasaki... Kawasaki EX500 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
Hi, Thomas I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Head Gasket---HISS
11. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
13. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
14. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
15. Solid Lifters---TICK
17. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Neutral light on while bike in gear ER 6F Neutral Light staying on http://service.tanga-moteurs.ro/data/Kawasaki_EX500-GPZ500S_1987-1993-ServiceManual_%28EN%29.pdf OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
it needs to be replaced you cannot fix that.. you may even be able to find a used one at a local junk yard seeing how they may be a little expensive.. let me know how you make out.. and also make sure you clean it well
Your problem is that your valves are not properly adjusted; had the same problem on my 1985 Ninja 600 - the colder the ambient temperature got the harder it was to start. After a valve adjustment it fired right up even in freezing temperatures very reliably.
capped off the system on my gpz1100e with no wet or winter problems... just as likely to get carb icing on my 900r which has an intact system with new filters...so I wouldn't worry. new filters are cheap enough though if you want to keep the system...
It sounds like the kick stand switch is not working or working real good. Did you mess with the switch? Or did you buy it like that? Somebody messed with and did it wrong. When the kick stand is down, the bike goes in gear it shuts off, That is how it is supposed to work. Mine was wired up and you would not believe how many times I took off with the stand down and almost killed myself. I got a new bike and left the switch alone. I know they make special switches for the wires to be cut and relocated, I don't know if you can find one on ebay or not, but I would get under there and check to see if any wires are hanging down. Hope this helps.